Shagwell

This is a few weeks old and we've made some pretty signifigant changes, but still............makes me giddy, lol.



The valvecovers/breathers are just sitting there to keep it covered. (not legal)

I'll try to upload an current shot over the weekend; should be setting the motor in for the final time Sat.



I also finally up loaded an actual engine shot of the 496/n2o combo we were running.

breathers weren't legal there either, lol.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Illegal breathers???

Shagwell

We're hoping to be testing by the end of next month, then we have a little grudge match lined up during a race in Sept. - All of which will be testing to hopefully be at the ORTC race in south Georgia in Oct.

Looks like they're adding 10.5 outlaw to the program, so we're hoping to debut the car there. We can't afford to run the number that several of those attending can/do, but we hopefully we can knock out some mid 4's.

Shagwell

Anything faster than something like 5.70 or 5.90 (8.something 1/4) has to have bolted on/clamped down breathers. Regular push-ins won't pass tech.

AlkyIROC

If I had a big blower like that and a hat injection system, I'd be giddy also.

I've been using locking breathers for a couple of years now. It's a pain when I need to add oil. I need to back off the locking nut and unscrew the breather to get access to the crankcase. There's a nice 2 piece design one that simply unlatches and flips open so you can easily add oil to the engine.

1bad406

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to try to make that race, that 6.50 class was pretty fun in Feb. til i turned it red.

Shagwell

I'm the next step yet. My fab covers have the 90* tubes and hoses over to the catch cans. I have qc's at the cans, so if I need the covers off, the hoses leave with them. - They also have a seperate, screw-in oil fill.

We set the blower back 4"(it's a hi-helix) and I'm building a hat spacer now to step it up 2" and forward 2". - Should be a wild ride for sure.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Ah, that's all the farther you needed to go. . .

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

man that's nasty...lookin' killer ****!

Shagwell

Thanks guys, should be a fun ride.

I did just remember I'll likely have to have my -20 suit to run @ SGMP. That adds another $800-$1k to the list. Anyone in need of a blue g-force 3.2a/5 jacket and pants? lol

slow86305

dam that 496 is a anvil

Shagwell

We put a milder cam in it and it is currently destined for a buddy's street car.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

more pics JP!!!

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

agreed! lookin great man. mid 4's would be a fun ride for sure

Shagwell

I'm worthless, didn't take any. lol - I have to notch the firewall to fit the blower now, so didn't bother getting any new pics yet. We worked Sat all day on the 'maro, then Sun most the day on the 'stang(need to finish it and part with it).

Shagwell

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

giggity giggity!

Shagwell

Yeah, and to start off with it will have basically the same trans as I'm setting you up with....... good for you, not so much for me.....lol

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

really? what happend with the other deal you were talking about? i mean, the th400 you're building for me is probably a bit overkill for me, but will it handle what you're going to throw at it? i know nothing of what it takes to make an auto live behind 2k hp....

Shagwell

I'm going to be stepping up to a better unit, just not likely in time for testing nor the ORTC race. It will handle what I'm going to throw at it for a while, but it's going to roll the sprag and/or twist the input out of the drum at some point. - It's a balancing act building a trans for this type of app. You need enough clutch apply to keep it from driving through/burning the clutches, but you also need some slip to keep it from shocking/killing the hard parts. The weaker the hard parts, the more you need to cushion the shock.

Your trans will be a fresh version of the same trans I ran 5.5-5.3's on. I had over 50 hits at that power and it still looked new inside when I splattered it to check it out. It's actually going right back together to be the "sacrificial lamb" to test the new combo with. - In your app, as long as you follow the proper downshift(street) and burn-out procedures it will last you for years to come.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

what would these procedures be? trans fluid type you'd recommend? (i think i saw you said you ran type f on The 'Bullet) you can pm me if you'd prefer as to not clutter the thread any further.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

post it up here. Interested also. JP PM me on tranny/price info for a Th400 to toss behind my supercharged 383 setup.

Shagwell

Type F for a street car like yours. - I run hydrualic fluid in mine, though I usually mix in a quart or two of type F or dexIII to get some color. Unless you're making ridiculous power for the street, I don't reccomend the hyd oil, as it has no detergents(it also needs to be run with a brass screen type filter).


Procedures are simple and basically the same for any manual valvebody:

1) Do not downshift under power. You can down shift, but you need to be off the go-pedal before hand, then ease back onto it till you feel it "catch up". This is due to the no engine break function of a manual vb. If you downshift under power you basically give the engine a running start at smacking the sprag, which will shorten it's life dramatically.
2) Don't do/start a burn-out in 1st gear. You're best to start and finish in high gear, but if you can't spin the tires easily enough in high, start in 2nd and quickly shift to high(how I often do it with the n2o combo). With the tires spinning in low gear the low roller support is not loaded, thus freewheels with the output shaft and then comes to a sudden stop on the 1-2 shift which will kill it in short time. Letting the tires catch while spinning in 2nd does the same thing to the intermediate sprag. - Undoubtedly you will at sometime have it spin the tires at the hit or on the 1-2 shift. These occasional times are ok, but they do eventually have an effect on the lifespan of the trans(so basically don't purposely spin the tires in 1st or 2nd).
3) Always leave the trans in high gear while slowing from a run. With no engine breaking, if you downshift out of high or kill the engine at high speed, the direct drum is enabled to "hyper-speed". It will freewheel off of low gear backwards of the driveshaft speed; meaning 2.48 times the driveshaft speed. This is a very good way of sending shrapnel through the car, often out through the dash/roof, possibly taking pieces/portions of your legs with it. - Being a nitrous guy I need to kill it to get a good plug read; I leave it running till I'm slowed to a "safe speed" meaning a speed that I feel would be safe to be under power in low gear at.

The burn-out deal is actually a problem in 3 speeds even with a stock type auto vb. Not much you can do about it, but most of those apps aren't making enough power for the shortened life span to really be noticed.



TPI - I'm selling Matt one of my spare/back-up units. I do have one more that I planned to freshen and part with, but the case I have for it is cut for an Ultra-bell. You would either need to get a bell or I would need a Chevy pattern case to build it in. - PM me if you're interested and we'll talk.

Shagwell

As for this thread, lol -

I scored a Pro-Mag for some $ plus my 7&al-3 set-up. I was planning to step up to the 10+ box, but got a deal I couldn't pass up. Obviously the mag is even better for a blown alky combo, but will require some signifigant re-wiring in the car. - It should be here today so hopefully I can test fit it, then get the drive by the machine shop to set it up for the custom front drive I built for the car. I also need it to finalize the fuel cell fitment so I can mount it.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, though it's still a bit dim, lol. I still need the right snout for the blower and a few other misc items that will total at least a couple grand, and still have to get a 3.2a/20 suit(roughly another $1k). - After spending that money that I don't have, I then have to come up with the funds to actually take it out!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

thanks for the instructions! i had no idea about no shifting in the burnout. i've always started in 1st, hit the tires hard, then quickly shifted up to drive to get the wheel speed up. not sure if i'll be able to spin the tires in third gear.

Shagwell

Just do the 2-3 burn-out and you'll be fine. That's what I do with the nitrous combo due to the relatively low base timing. Strike the tires in the edge of the water, immediately shift to high and let it come out of the water.

Comes out real clean that way:



A low gear burn-out is pretty hard on the low roller sprag. - I've broken one before in a fresh trans due to spitting the driveshaft at the launch.

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

sounding like its coming along pretty well.


and running a mag now? you're stepping into big boy territory lmao

Shagwell

lol, yeah, we're trying to step up all we can, thus a little more than we can really afford....

It's a baby mag, not a 44. I couldn't justify dropping $4-5k just on the ignition system. - I got it yesterday and started playing with fitment. Gonna have to modify the fuel cell I just built to gain a little clearance. - Oh the joys of racing and custom parts......

brandoz28

iTrader: (1)

well that sucks....i'd love to have something that could really use a mag lol