AlkyIROC

Single wideband in one of the header tubes. I use an LM-2 data logger. I've also used an electric vacuum pump for many years. Although it's not good enough to pull the crankcase into a vacuum under WOT, it does pull condensation out of the crankcase at part throttle and when the engine is shut down between rounds. After every pass, I can drain condensation out of the puke tank. Getting any water/methanol out of the crankcase means your oil stays clean. Header evac hoses are not enough. I've seen cars that change their oil after every weekend because it's so contaminated. Like I mentioned above, I change my oil once a year and that's just because I feel guilty if I don't. The oil is still clean. This winter I'm installing a belt driven vacuum pump. That should be good for at least 20 more HP.

If you get the engine oil above 170* at the end of the day, (sometimes you need to use a leanout valve to build heat) it will evaporate any methanol that may be in the oil. I watch my oil temp gauge more than coolant temp. You also need to use a brand of oil that's compatible with methanol. The majority of the racing oils are good. They make it harder for the methanol to mix with the oil.

I use a rad and fan from a Pontiac Firefly (Geo Metro, Chev Sprint etc). Most of the time the fan is turned off. Temperature climbs as I make a pass but usually by the time I'm back to the pits, the temperature has dropped right back down. I usually cross the finish line around 180*. Depends on the temperature when I stage. I try to get it to 160* before I stage but sometimes it's difficult to get it that hot.

GMan 3MT

iTrader: (4)

My goal is get the (swap in progress) LT1 as reliable as I got the 305 TPI (after a few gremlins) to be and simply have no at fault contact. Continuing my IronMan streak would be a nice bonus; 64 races and counting since 2008 (usually 4 races per event weekend).

gtpro700

Alky how do you like the lm-2? How is your rpm input setup? I have heard their is a lot of noise on the rpm signal certain ways and people have had problems with it. If you could let me know hwo you setup your rpm signal that would be much appreciated.

AlkyIROC

RPM signal is connected to the coil as per normal installation instructions. I have no problems with it. I also use a large MSD capacitor filter in my system.

travis_henry

Ok sweet thats quite abit more power than what i got so ill look int to gettn that done!

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Keep us posted man, i would love to know how hard it runs at the track, here is the carbed section of Tech i had opened up just for us carbed LS guys:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/carbureted-lsx-forum-172/

zacharyhorn

iTrader: (1)

I would like to get my junk to the track at least once. I haven't raced it since I had the stock 305 for a baseline... No clue what this motor will do.

Sparkytfl

I should be able to get the kinks out of the 350 that I put in too late last year to drive much. Then I'll be taking it to the track for the first time. No idea what to expect. The drag2003 program guesses right around 14. I'll see how inaccurate that is. Considering I lack limited slip, and how restrictive my edelbrock headers and stock catback are, maybe I'll be lucky if I beat 15?

travis_henry

Oh yeah man ill keep it posted for sure. the street stock guys are gonna be in for a rudeeeeee awaikening when i show up with this monster. idk if ill beable to use 540 hp. i might not get it to the ground. lol well see what happens!!!

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Oh yea man, you an back ff the cam and keep revs at 6000-6500, my cam is one of the larger grinds that are considered the largest to run on stock cubes, if you need mid range power you will want to step down in size, my cam is drag oriented, top end peak power. I am sure you will need something that will hit out of the turn right? Actually, a 5.3 liter would perhaps be more manageable, with 317 heads, you can mill them and do the vlave job, then have a good combo with the right cam, they make 400-450 at tthe flywheel with mid range cams, the bigger cammed 5.3s with ported heads make 480 or so, then, if you wanted to start fresh, with more cubes than the 5.3 but not have to spend the extra folks want on the 6.0 if you want a fresh motor enyway, take a 5.3 engine, take it apart and have the block bored to 3.9(LS1 5.7 bore), you will have LS1 cubes it he iron block, and 475-500 HP can be yours with whatever grind cam you pick, then whatever you want for durability goes up, a set of ARP rod bolts would be a good choice as well as head bolts, then let it eat.

travis_henry

awsome awsome man. im excited about it now. i need the motor (cam) to come on at like 3500 and go to like 7200 or so. i spin my motor now at like 6900 7000 depending on the day. but im only ligal to a 500 CFM holley so idk how much it will restrict the torque power ect. but i think it will be different and i think ppl wont know wha to say.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Never run a carb that small, but cam wise, there is a guy named PatG on LS1tech that you need to get with and he can spec a grind that would suit your needs after you give him all the info, like weight, cubes, heads ect...

From there, you will have a grind that will give the most from the engine.

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

My goal is to not set any goals!

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

Yeah right, goals are

Throw my motor together, lay it in, wire it up and connect the dots.

Than I can beat up on the BRAND NEW Moser 9 inch, 10 point frame tied chassis, and fully built 200R4 transmission.

Shagwell

I need to advertise/sell this mustang so I can finish the few small things on the camaro.

We're going to run the stang at the Tomato Nationals down here in a couple weeks, and it has my old 496 in it right now. Will have either the big single kit again or maybe two slightly smaller kits, but either way the goal with it is to run a 4.8x at 140ish. - if it's not sold by March we'll probably take it to the Southern Shakedown, if it is then we'll have the camaro there.

The camaro, goal is a 4.5x at 155+.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

im hoping to get a 25.5 in the car and finally get the turbo motor in there with a pair of 70s or a single 91 maybe.

faster1k

finish my 3rd gen 406 hsr, get it in the mid 12s and atleast make it too august without destroying the rearend.. sell my other project car so i can auto-x my 3rd gen.. and ride my bike to the track and finally break below 8.50s on a short 1000

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

My goal is to get my new combination together and running in the early spring . I want to race at 4-5 of the major events plus a couple of test n' tunes. ET wise I would like to run in the 10.3 range n/a on pump gas driving it to the track. I think it should be capable of better ET's but I'd be happy with something in the 10.3 range, I figure it will take some time to get the bugs worked out. Last goal is to not grenade the th-350, hopefully it will last 1-2 seasons then I'll upgrade to a th-400.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

should be very obtainable with your combo jbenge. just remember these motors (with big intakes) love a big pump shot

Shagwell

I've known several mildly prepped th350's to handle 8-9 second times in heavy foot braked 4th gens. They don't do too well with a t-brake though.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I've got a t-brake in mine but I rarely use it for fear of breakage, I always launch at a low rpm with it when it is used. Its well built so it should last but I've seen a lot of them fail in 10 and 11 sec cars. I've got a csr shield too so if it does let go atleast I'll keep all my limbs. I normally footbrake the car unless I'm on a pro style tree then t-brake is the way to go.

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I think traction might be my biggest problem, we'll see how it hooks with the extra power. An anti-roll bar and front travel limiters are probably in my future.

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

Just some updates for this years racing season. Since I have run under 8.50 I thought it was time for the 25.5. I have 65% percent of the cage scuffed and sanded as of 7pm this evening. I probably need another 2-3 hours and before it's ready for paint. I am going to select a darker grey this time around. I moved the brake and gas pedal forward 6 inches as I am sitting further back in the car. The good thing is I can leave the shifter in the stock location on the console. I am moving the turn signals and all accessory switches to the top of the roll bar.

The short block is assembled and I'm just waiting for my heads and intake to come back. I am having the AFR 357's worked over a bit to increase the NA output of the engine plus the change over to a Profiler Sniper intake. The Dart intake was as cast and the concensus is that they are terrible intakes even with work done to them. I am hoping for roughly 60 more NA hp with heads and intake swap.

Sorry about the headliner falling down in the pics. I now have removed it and am looking locally for a better candidate for upholstery. I redid it last year and it was just too brittle.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

looks great! who did the updates?

Shagwell

1BADRZ28 - looks great man, just do us a favor. Don't use the 25.5 cert, just make sure you're required to have it.

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

I am already required.

Fastbird

iTrader: (5)

to finish what I started at the end of the 2008 season.

Originally it was going to be a simple 700r4 to TH350 swap....car is still in the air.

700r4 shifted on its own at 5500..my cam makes power to 7200. Also 700r4 had a 3800 stall 9.5" convertor. TH350 has manual valve body and ATI 8" Treemaster with 4800 stall.

Other things that happened along the way:

Spohn TH350 torque arm, spherical rod ended LCA and panhard rod.
Spohn Drag Bar
converted to s-10 manual steering box
electric water pump
rear mounted battery
removed A/C
Innovative Wideband Data Logger
B&M Quarter Stick shifter
Spring change & titanium Retainers + stud girdle


Hopefully she will 60' a little better in 2011 (hoping for 1.4x) and run in the high 10's

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Some of what you have done and are doing is the same here, wide band and what not, i like it, told me i am running a touch lean on the big end. I like the manual steering box at times, but it sucks to go to the gym and then try to drive the damn thing home.

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

The manual box isn't really that hard to drive. It's just more rotations to get it to turn.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

eh, i don't know. i prefere the power steering, so i've kept it on. i've had a manual box on the car in the past. when i get disgusted enough with the weight of the car and i can't find anywhere else to pull weight from, i may consider going back to it. but for a car that sees street time, it's a pain in the butt when used in conjunction with a spooled rearend. (parking lot situations, etc)

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Shiit Matt, try it with a manual trans as well, just makes it that much more fun.


The smaller GT wheel is what makes it kind of a PITA some times, there is no one hand turning whipping into parking sots and what not.

Shagwell

Manual steering + spool = lols. You go to back out of a parking spot and the rear end just laughs, "oh, you may think you're going to turn, but I ain't havin' it."

Modified spindles + power rack for the win!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

power rack/modded spindles? please expound

exactly on the parking spot things....i can feel the whole car bind up...add in spherical rod-ended suspenion parts and it sounds like everything is about to come completely apart, lol.

Shagwell

stage20 has posted pics of his modded spindles. - He shortened the steering arms down to the length of mustang spindles.

As for a power rack, I'd use a early-mid 80's t-bird rack. Regular inverted flare fittings(easy to sort the hoses out), SAE threaded inner tie-rods making it easier to sort out outer tie rods(or sleeves and spherical rod-ends for easy bump steer adjustment), and simple mounting system.

My camaro has the same rack in a manual version. It's basically the same as the mustang II rack.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

That will be nice... i just went to twin 70's but the rest of the motor is abit small to support their potential. Hope to see gains with them based on improved efficiency tho.

I'd love to hit 150 mph in the 1/4

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

orr, 150 eh? 'chute that's fast!

JP, i just bought (about a year ago) a spohn bump steer kit for the factory setup, will i be able to use it on the rack you're referring to? i have no idea what size/thread pitch the stock inner tie rods are on our cars...

Shagwell

Our stock tie rods are considerably bigger than rack tie-rods. - All you would need is some threaded tubes and rod ends though, pretty cheap from the roundy-round places like Speedway.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I'll take faster if i can get it...and someday maybe the car will get the safety stuff to be legal at those levels....I gotta hang with if not beat the imports around here... there are a few high 140's mph cars and I know of a 1033whp supra.... just aint fair
But i'd be happy with a consistantly running motor that is also somewhat reliable. I didnt have that last year so I missed ALOT of races/car club events i wanted to attend. I really just want to properly tune the car. I really have a slap happy street tune that could use some attention on a dyno or the track. Theres only so much you can do with a 9 sec car on the street. Pulling to 140 is not gonna happen

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i know the feeling. my car is a full second slower than yours, and it's scary on the street to try to do any real tuning...it's been 125 so far, and it gets there quick. i rolled into it to the top of second last week and it was fairly scary on a regular street.

TB2

iTrader: (1)

Switching over to run E85 with the new motor. Will be 13.5to1 350ci with all good internals. I need to install the new fuel pump and run a return line to the tank. I need to get the converter reflashed and put a new front pump in the trans. 5400 stall for a true street car can be a bit much. I will be happy if I can get close to the 10's naturally aspirated.

fenton06

Get her converted over to single plane EFi and get the body/chassis work done... Should only be a few grand...

Fast 383

iTrader: (2)

New Goal!

Figure out what i'm doing with this car...

davesengineshop

I wanna make top 10 in points this year...A win would be nice, havent won a event since 2009 when I raced my focus... an auto x event too is in the planning

skinny z

So...what about 2012?

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I originally wanted to do a cam swap and step up to real cam that goes lumpity lump when it idles, break the 300 rwhp mark with conviction instead of hovering right on it. But after reading GMan 3MT's thread about CMC racing I think I'd rather spend the money on going racing.

I dont have enough money for drag radials AND AutoX tires (And by AutoX tires, I mean cheapies that I dont mind wearing out, not some race compound stuff) so I think Im gonna just focus on what I built the car for. In the meantime I dont know if I can afford the cam swap or not anymore. But with the new gears in the car Im hoping I can best my 14.1@101.8 and get down to at least 13.8... if I could manage to hit a 13.5 I'd be super happy. But that's gonna have to be on street tires so Im not gonna expect much.

I still need to get a helmet. I've been talking about autocrossing the car forever, but I finally am in a position with the car where I feel like I can. The car is running better than it has in a long time. That said Im not in it to win.... just to have some fun. Racing for bragging rights costs way too much money for me.

1BADRZ28.... How exactly do you get in that car?

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

it's no different than having an 8 point once you get the hang of it.