ransam

iTrader: (2)

Im finishing up the reassembly after paint and the lq4 th350 swap and im trying to decide what parts to purchase for the suspension and chassis to complete my street strip build. My track is IHRA so i only need a 4 point bar to be legal to 10.50 so im looking at the jegster kit it seems reasonable does anyone have any opinion on it? Next im looking at the viking dbl adj rear coil overs is this overkill? I am not sure what im doing for the front springs and struts yet but i will eventually go to a tubular k member with rack and pinion for weight savings. I am looking into weight reduction but i dont want a gutted car so im not sure what will come out yet. I will probably just change out the front seats with something lighter weight than the factory electric adj ones. My goal for this car is to be able to drive it 20 miles to my local track rip off a high 10 sec pass on motor and a low 10 sec pass with the nitrous. I have a lq4 with milled and ported 243s a fast intake holley hp efi 1 3/4 headers, i am gonna build a true duel 3 inch exhaust, a coan 10 inch 3600 stall converter. I havnt ordered a rear end yet but i will be getting either 3.73s or 3.90 gears.

LB9GTA

iTrader: (1)

I would go with a 6 pt roll bar. If you are going to cut up the car, at least make it legal for IHRA or NHRA so it can go to other tracks and potentially have some resale value.

FRMULA88

To run low / mid 10s in the 1/4 mile with a F-body you will have to make close to 700 flywheel HP.

I highly doubt any Naturally Aspirated LQ4 is up to that task.
They typically make less the 500 HP, which is good for low 12s / high 11s.
which is still respectable for street car.

You will need at least a 200 HP nitrous kit just to make a mid 10s passes.

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

I don't see those hp requirements, FRMULA.
It sounds like he's not building an overly-heavy f-body.
As reference, I'm using 425 rwhp (~520 crank) to go 10.9's in a 3800 lb car. And 520 rwhp (~635 crank) on a lil shot of spray to go 10.3's in the same car.
His planned converter and gears are milder, yet it sounds like he'll weigh at least 400 lb less. 500 NA and 600 sprayed will easily get him high and lo/mid 10's.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

my naturally aspirated 6.0 just went 10.25 @ 134 mph, good enough for 9.8x's....pump gas and ported stock casting....

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

a 4 point roll bar isn't legal for anything. you will need the 5th point, which is the driver's side door bar, to be legal from 11.99 to 10.00 (IHRA tracks). i have used the jegs kit in 2 cars. i prefer the competition engineering kit that i've used in another 2 cars. the s&w is a nice kit as well.

the viking shocks are a great choice. i recommend taking a look at PA Racing for the rest of your list. Jason is a great guy and easy to work with.

ransam

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the input. Any input about front struts? Im also currently looking at front seats. Im trying to find something lighter weight but are comfortable and not so race car looking.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

the factory 4th gen manual seats on thirdgen racks are a good bit lighter than what you have now, and don't look racecar.

front struts worth a hoot are expensive. there are a few options. here are the ones i'm aware of.

lakewood 90/10
competition engineering 90/10
qa1 single/double adjustables
strange single/double adjustable
santuff single/double adjustable.

the lakewoods and competition engineering ones are basically the same. i have a set of lakewoods and my cousin is using the CE ones. i'm relatively happy with the way both perform. my car runs 10.2's, his car runs 12.0's. both are priced about the same and can be picked up used from time to time.

everything i've heard about qa1 lately is their quality control sucks and their valving leaves a lot on the table.

the strange are probably the best "bang for the buck" but are still quite pricey at 500ish each. if viking doesn't come out with something for our cars soon-ish, i'm going to look at these for my car

the santhuff's are seen as an investment, and are something like $2K+ for the pair. these are what all the go-fast radial cars and such are running. stock eliminator guys like these too. they are the best, but you gotta pay for them.

ransam

iTrader: (2)

When i spoke with UMI they said viking was working on front struts for us but didnt give any time frame. I can wait till spring for the fronts so i will see what happens come april. I have to decide what rear to buy and from where.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

get the viking rear shocks and get them from umi this weekend. 10% off and free shipping. that's when/where i got mine from last year.

fyi, i don't care for umi's suspension components, i don't particularly think they're engineered well for a competition vehicle. but this will be the best deal to get the shocks.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Went 11.40's with 1.60's 60' times

Spohn SFC
Spohn adj. LCAs
Spohn weld on LCA brackets
Spohn adj. panhard
Jegster adj. torque arm
S&W 10 pt. cage
KYB AGX adj. rear shocks
Moog Iroc rear springs
Air lift drag bags
Stock 6 cylinder front springs
Worn out front stock struts
Nitto 275/60-15 drag radials
3220 lbs car w/o driver