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Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
Ok guys to shorten the story down a bit ill explain fast as I can. I bought the car ill show pictures of in Florida 2 years ago this winter. when I bought the car it had the main body (top and quarters) attached only. frame rails from cross member forward ran and the main hoop of the cage done. After that work is all that we've done. I had a incident at my previous job that put it on a setback but were back up and working on it again. plan is to be a bbc glide car. 575 ish ci range one 1 plate kit for finish line driving. mostly bracket some sg index racing is the goal for the finished product. will post pictures soon.
we hung the doors front end after we got it home and on the jig. had to cut rear bumper in half to fit because was too wide. had to trim down hatch piece due to being to wide. all fiberglass is VFN brand put the back lexan in and side windows. all lexan is shakedown pre molded for this car. great product very happy with them again. used them on our 68 cuda as well. window frames came from jerry bickel pre bent to fit the windows. they also worked out great.
all these pictures are older work has been done inside and out since taken. all ive got on my phone at the time. but up to speed wishbone is installed housing is in the rear four link is finished. just have to reattach back of car to chassis. antiroll bar is waiting on 1 bar to be shipped in aka the main bar for it lol. as u can see I cut bumper in half and glassed back together. im by no means a body guy professional but I don't think I did to bad a job as a rough in.
I wish I had the time, money and garage space to do a full tube chassis car. It's a lot of work but well worth it in the end. I could easily shave 600 to 1000 pounds off my car if it was tube chassis.
Yes you can make a production car run fast but it just isn't the same. For how much money I've invested in the car over the years, it would have been cheaper and easier to build or buy a tube chassis car from day 1.
Technically I run fast enough to make it run in Quick Rod/Super Comp but could easily slow it down with the throttle stop to run in Super Rod/Super Gas.
it looks like the tail light panel was left intact, so my guess is it was just the aftermarket parts not fitting quite right.
cool project. i'm not a big tire or a tube chassis car kind of guy, but love to see these types of builds take place. it helps give me all sorts of ideas.
Good to hear you are doing better, I bet that killed you to not be able to work on it while you were healing. Lots of guys would have gave up, glad you didn't.
The bumper looks great, cant wait to see the rest of the car come together.
guys thank you soo much it means a lot. and yes it was just a fiberglass part were the mold was a little wide I guess. far as tube chassis its a great choice in my opinion. this will be our 3rd car that we have done for ourselves. makes about the 6th total I think. i do however like small tire cars they are very fun owned a small tire third gen ran low 7's in the 1/8 na on pump gas just a little street car i guess u could say.
ET goals are around 540 ish 1/8 mile sub 890 1/4 going to bracket and throttle stop race super gas since ihra is far away to be considered local to me.
Ok update I know its been awhile but work progress has slowly been going on the car. The back window is completely in the car. rear end is painted and looking good anti roll bar is finished up. Bought some motor parts as well pics to be coming later!!!
Ok update I know its been awhile but work progress has slowly been going on the car. The back window is completely in the car. rear end is painted and looking good anti roll bar is finished up. Bought some motor parts as well pics to be coming later!!!
Sounds great. Keep us posted. Hope you dont mind but I coppied a couple of your picks for reference on my 91.
I guess your planning on running a mouse with your ET, goals. 😊
Just know we've been 5.teen's with a 496 NA. , on stock suspension at 2950lbs. Been 4.60's with it on the juice.
Well actually a mild 582 ci set up for bracket and stop racing. i set my goals high so i wouldn't get disappointed if it was a little slow. looking for 2400 race ready weight with me in car and 1000hp NA. i don't mind take all the pics you need to. hope people like the work!
Well actually a mild 582 ci set up for bracket and stop racing. i set my goals high so i wouldn't get disappointed if it was a little slow. looking for 2400 race ready weight with me in car and 1000hp NA. i don't mind take all the pics you need to. hope people like the work!
A buddy has a 582 in another car. Fox body car. Stock suspension. Engine made 1257hp, Im almost positive.
Car has been 5.03@140.18 mph. in the 1/8th.,NA at 2950 lbs. on 275 Pro Radials, with a 4.10 gear on 12" wide wheels. 1.13 60'. He uses the 7531 on that car.
It runs low 4.'s on the fogger.
Tried to post a timeslip, but it wouldn't go through.
Your car is goon haul.
Shocks are the key, to fast ET's on Radials. "Mencer" or "Koni"
Thats what everyone runs, here.
And those dam $700 a piece, front wheels.
I'm running a four link as you can see and bigger slick for bracket and .90 racing. more e.t consistent is what we are looking for. using strange double adjust now. may have re-valved at later time after testing if needed.
Well radiator mounts done working on fuel cell next. got dash in for car still have to mount it hopefully this weekend i can get stuff rolling since im off. finally getting decent weather around here. and hopefully have motor set in my dragster as well.
Thanks guys! The scoop is big yes it's a pro stock scoop before they went to EFI. It's getting mounted with the lip under the hood so it'll be shorter and cut angled against window so not as big as picture shows. Has a license plate thanks to Matt! Wing and chute to come on rear and little stuff then powder coat. Fitting windshield now
just sayn
ya can see over it just fine...my seats are the same height as OEM. I'm 6'4" helmet also clears.
(seat rails are lower but keeps seat stock height)
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 02-10-2017 at 06:48 PM.
I have a 6 inch cowl on mine, they look good, but I am at 6'5" tall it can be a challenge to see over. Especially if you are bottom bulb racing in the left lane.
I had a 6" cowl on mine for a little while. It's just too big and really hard to see around even while driving through the pits. That's why I went with a low cowl and a small scoop attached to it. Visibility was much better. The tunnel ram has two toilets on top of it and they just fit under the scoop without any air filters. Ran it that way for a few years before removing the scoop and putting the Hilborn style scoop on top of the toilets. Even with the small scoop on top of the low cowl, I could see the back of the hood start to lift half way down the track. The scoop grabs a lot of air. The Hilborn style scoop is attach directly to the engine so the hood doesn't lift any more.
i promise the scoop is going to be adjusted and smaller on the finished product. far as sheet metal goes we will see. i plan to metal the floors and firewall then carbon on everything else. only thing i can think of is splitting the tunnel where the shifter mount is and notch for that place.
THANKS GUYS! Got the hood fitted how i like it this weekend with the help of my wife and her fiberglass skills. I will have pictures up soon fixing to mount windshield and cut out for the scoop.
i have some minor welding to do in the cockpit side we moved some stuff to better fit my long legs. and one dash bar has to go in still. after that a good sand down and paint the chassis then reassemble alot. i hope turn key this winter hope if money stays good. sales can be a washy job.
Planned to get some work done this weekend but wedding season is upon us and seems like all my buddies are getting married. In one wedding tomorrow hopefully Sunday get some progress rolling on it again.
07-26-2015, 05:33 PM
Cant wait to see it. 
