articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

so I had Scott shafiroff call me today to talk about my engine. he told me they had doubts about my intake when they pulled it out of the box. they started the engine off with carburetors to warm it up. then switch to the fitech system and started making Pulls. 6 Pulls back to back.. 892 horsepower..On pump gas.!

I was waiting for the bad news there was none to quote Scott shafiroff "we were tickled and impressed with this intake"... And like to put pictures on their website..(this pic is from the site)
new eng

AlkyIROC

LOL! I'm sure they're doing some sort of 3D scan of it too to try and copy it.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

lol..that would be funny..but I did this intake to save a few bucks..less then $1500 to make ($400of that into the polishing).. if I had Hogan make me A sheet metal intake it would have been $2500+ now I know it works ill see about getting one made to my needs...
just think if I did the 12.5to1 it would be over 1000hp... on a small tire car...
you know with the 454 valve covers on it. ya think I can pass it off as just a big cam? sleeper?

AlkyIROC

In reality, my engine doesn't really need a tall tunnel ram on it either. With the alcohol injectors at the base of the intake and spraying into the intake port of the head, there's isn't an air/fuel mixture inside the manifold where you need a large plenum volume to keep is suspended. The toilets on top of the manifold are just large throttle bodies to let air into the engine. A short runner tunnel ram with direct shots to the intake ports would probably work just as well if not better.

A sheet metal tunnel ram just isn't in my budget either.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

Once I get this in the car and driven for a week or two chassis Dyno it a couple of times I might spring for a complete sheet metal intake from Hogan.. but this engine combination was a bit spendy.. having sent them about $5,500 in parts.. add their price of $24,439.80 shipt... I still have a transmission and a carbon fiber Driveline to add so that's going to be another five or six thousand..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

so this is my eng..on the dyno..now on its way to me..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

video they posted

skinny z

That's going to make for a splendid street car.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

Thanks...I hope to have fun with it....Hellcat ya say?

Buddy

Oh wow, thats a bit of power. That car is going to be a complete beast. Very impressive package!

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

just a nice weekend driver...to have fun with...
I have a few thing to redo when it gets in..
1.move the nos plates to the bottom.and turn them.
2. move my linkage to the right hole...(im set up for)
3. swap out the valve covers.
gave them all the info on how to set things up...but ya know.. how things go...small fix ums.. wanted red plug wires..but did not say so..(my falt) was thinking that's was the norm...its just small things. the valve covers I have sets the holes for the breathers in the front..on both sides..iv found in the past just let them do the work..and fix all the small things when It gets it..

Bow_Tied

iTrader: (1)

Wow, nice!

red rock

iTrader: (2)

I'd say with the weight difference, you wouldn't have any problem up against a Demon even, provided you can get traction. Beautiful job on the engine.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

the car has come a long way over the years..its set up for the 1/4 mile with a small mini tub job as well..this shot shows 13.5x29x15 tucked under..MT sportsmen pro.
Its also all 9" under the car..with a ladder bar type set up (SSM). it was a blast to drive with 480hp.. and some nos.. this time I redid everything from the custom aluminum fuel tank that replaces the stock tank..(14 gal) to the UMI K member. and coil overs at all 4 corners..i dropped even more LBS off the car..i wanted just Brute power on tap at all times.without going 7500rpm...and some more with a button...we have a lot of hellcats.and iv seen 1 demon driving around...nexed summer will be fun..even at the track...might even do a 4th 3rd member with 3.90s in it...have 4.11/4.30/4.56 units now..for tuning...its not a LS swap...but sorta cool anyway..I could not buy a COPO with a ZL1.. but I could come close with bolting one together for the feel...+


think Ill have to change the time index.. with the new eng set up..

and a lot of other parts going on the car....

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

the cam is a smallish 274/286@50 773/773lift. mech roller a nice street cam...

red rock

iTrader: (2)

So, I'm sitting about where you were for power and have a heck of a time getting traction on the street. I went with Nitto 555R on the rear. I know the 18" wheels are killing me even with 285/35's, but i have zero sidewall flex so i just spin through 1,2, and half way into 3rd. I'm thinking about 15" wheels similar to what you have on the rear. I need a wheel size with more options on tire size.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

I run 15x10.275 wide rear wheels with a 6.5 back space.
tires run are 325 50 15 MT Drag Radials
13.5 29 15 MT sportsmen pros
13,5 28 15 MT ET Drags
Im thinking I might need more tire now..

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Thank you for sharing your wheel size. Get a video up when you get it together.

izcain

Nice looking bullet. You planning on running those same diameter headers as were run on the dyno?

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

perty close if not the same size tube..
Lemons is putting together a set for my car about $2000 for the set 2 1/4" Primaries into ...try to do 3 1/2 collector.. jet hot coated inside and out..dont want to do a 4" collector..
might even have to do a 4th 3rd member in the 3.90 ball park..as this is a bit more Hp..doing a Th400 with a brake..(working on getting) the parts to keep the speedo working..if not then ill just go with a auto meter speedo set up..
as for exhaust..dont want to cut holes in the fenders..think ill just do like a boomtube out ea side just infront of the rear tires single chamber mufflers.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

My girlfriends son-in-law just dyno'd his 406 with a Weiand supercharger at 685 hp. He had a 3.90 third member, (T-56) in it before with a poor tune and chewed up the 3.90, so now he went to a heavier built 4.11 and it performs a lot better. He hasn't run a strip yet until he get everything broke in and any bugs worked out. I have been trying to get him to join TGO, but he hasn't yet. He has a 85 or 86 Camaro, ( I'm not sure of the year) that is really nice.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

I orderd another locker for a 4th 3rd member..as doing power to Weight ratio.. was telling me I would be faster with the 3.89 gears in the 1/4 mile.. have a few to work with at this time..I want to get into the 150+ MPH in the 1/4.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Jeepers boy, hang on!

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

I don't know how much spray it's going to take.. but I know how much I'm going to use!

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

ea plate is getting 100 shot...that's nothing for it..as it was set up to put spray into it..its not a race car...yet

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

good lord why on earth dont you just change the gears? do you just have all those 3rd members sitting around?

my car went 140 in the 1/4 with a 350, 150 shot, and 3.89 gear on 28's. your combo will have well over double what my car had.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

I will change gears.one 3rd member at a time.. takes about 30 to 45 mins...swapping out ring gears...not on my list of fun things to do...
If I brake a part.. I don't want it to stop all the fun...

AlkyIROC

It's expensive but it's a lot quicker to just change a third member while at the track than it is to change and set up a new set of gears.

I did a gear swap one weekend. Went racing on a Saturday night. Was trying out some 4.57 gears. Didn't like the way they performed with my setup so I took the car home after racing, swapped my 4.86 gears back into the diff then went back to the track for 8 am Sunday morning. Not something I would have wanted to do at the track but relatively easy to do in my garage. Car loves the 4.86 gears and I've considered going to 5.00. I also run a 32" tall tire and spin the engine to 7400 although the camshaft will still make power to 8000.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i agree on the easy part, but you will rarely change them. the rest of the time you have $1500 a pop sitting on the shelf. (the ones like above)

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

in doing the gear sets..back in the 80s when I started racing..it was kewl to dig up a 3rd member set up.. my first unit was a locker with 4.86 gearing for(edit FROM) a guy working at a ford dealership..it was like 1984 I paid $200...

so today with online shopping for parts. you can put a 3rd member together for $850 with good parts..(name brand) the above units had been done 1 at a time..some times shopping for parts over a week..some time 2 weeks.. fun to do..im doing a 4th 3rd member now with the 3.89/ 3.90 gears. and just did the another 3.25 bearing locker unit. like the others.. most of your nascar teams set up and test part.. and sell parts off that are close to new or new.. so I get my locker units for $200 with Timken bearings installed. saving me $300+ on ea unit.
The unit below is an expl if you shop.. I paid $200 for it shipped..you can get every thing from the nascar teams.. I then buy the aluminum housings. I save a few bucks and shop.. just know what your shopping for..and do it over a few weeks.. and its like dirt cheap. feels that way..

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i know how much they are, i have one. wish i had enough money to put 4 of them together but i dont.... lol
nascars run 31 spline, is that what you are running? i twisted my 31 spline axles.
also, are you running the nascar lightened gears?

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

yes 31 spline.. had my 9" installed when the car was brand new back in 92.. did not think I would be putting 800+ hp to it..after getting tuned/set up I can always move up to 35 spine. but..but like anything in racing ya always want to keep an eye on your parts...and look for things going south...
always pay for good axles.. as for the gears I use new gears.. not under cut.

now I just have to put it back together...

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

going to order a set of weld RTS Beadlocks for the rear..the above RTS's look good. and a will work for the street..
as long as the don't add more then 9 lbs over the reg RTS Weels

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

checking out a few things..getting it on a eng stand was fun..as I had to lift one side of the pallet high enough to get the 1 leg of the Hoist under it..saving the crate so I have it to send it back in 3 to 5 years for a refresh..lol asked not to have the cid listed on the valve covers..(615cid) as I might install GM 427 covers... as this is my 427 ZL1....lol

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

Checking the new bullet out

under the V covers


Moroso Makes a lot of parts

red rock

iTrader: (2)

What a beast. The last picture, it looks like coolant in the valvetrain?

AlkyIROC

Those Crower shaft rockers sure look nice.

I have 31 spline axles in my car. When they were new, I painted a line down the length of the axle. The last time I had them out, the line was still straight and the splines were still straight.

It all depends on how much torque multiplication you put to the axles. My 1.76 first gear powerglide isn't multiplying torque as much as a 2.48 TH400 is or an even deeper 3.06 of a 700R4.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

that's the Brake in Oil..after the dyno runs...But when I seen it..ya that's what I was thinking for a a sec...LOL

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

Back in 92 when I first got the 9" that's the first thing I did.. was the paint a line down ea axle. this eng is going to be Fun.. the average Torque from 4000 to 6500RPM is 752.. avg HP 809hp on the dyno sheet....LMAO.. Traction...A thing of the past...

AlkyIROC

Wish I could get mine on a dyno. I'd do a chassis dyno just to see what kind of power actually gets to the wheels. Engine dyno is great to determine what stall speed the converter would like.

A rough estimate based on some dyno software puts my peak torque around 5000. That's why I launch the car at 4500. The tunnel ram flattens out the power curve compared to a single plane intake. It gives more power under the curve. With my 6000 stall converter, I shift at 7400 and the rpms drop back to 6400 according to my replay tach.

The powerband is really designed by the cam grind. Keeping yours under 6500 sure isn't going to hurt anything.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

with the spray its going to go a bit longer..not much..but the power will be up across the RPM.. past 4000rpm..going with a 3 speed..with talk to ATI about the converter speed needed. after getting the car set up will do a chassis dyno. to see..

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

my 31 spline axles twisted pretty abruptly in the splined areas so it was easy to see. i never did paint a line down them to see twist over the whole length. 1.30 60' on 275 radials. ~3100 lb. raceweight

a glide would make thinks alot easier at the track and as mentioned above would help the axles survive for a bit.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

starting out with 500fpt at 3000rpm and ramping up to700+ in the RPM will test them...if I can get a good tune with the gears.. will only need 1 set. for the track could always go with 40spline after that...just a phone call away..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

got the bead locks ordered today..hope to see them by the end of Oct ..from the ship info..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

set my valve covers up the way I wanted..no body makes a set like I wanted..breathers at the front with baffles..



wanted the breather holes at the front on both sides. with short screws...the canton racing set is set up with long screws...but looks so flimsy..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

the above shot shows the canton racing valve cover..they do not have billet rails...and looks they would leak...but now looks like a stock 427 big block ZL1....(sorta)...working on a better air cleaner to hood set up..going to make the lower pan seal to the hood when closed.to get air from the cowl..


I want a taller air cleaner..3" tall.. can drop the base down another inch..

AlkyIROC

I've had long screw valve covers and hated them. Needed the tall valve covers to clear the stud girdle and even then, I needed valve cover extensions.

When I switched to shaft rockers, that changed everything. A set of low profile valve covers with short screws fit perfectly over the shaft rockers. Looks much cleaner.

I went with no holes in the covers but at the front of one of the covers is an AN fitting for the vacuum pump. No holes means it has a better seal. Downside is that I need to pull a valve cover when I need to add oil.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

I orderd a Polished set without holes and did 1" holes and added baffles..have 1 breather in ea cover.and was going to add a oil fill cap..like the canton covers came with.but don't want them to look so bissy with a lot of crap on them.. fill cap was only $25 in black anodized.. but can fill by removing a breather..I picked up 2 catch can setups. to do one on ea side.but found I cant order/get a vacuum pump to work with the pulley set up I have....so going to see what I can have made.. had to go with the short screw type covers to work with the plug wire set up they used on my eng. but I like the T handle stud valve cover hold downs.(timing them with washers) to line up) and tigging them the end of the T hold downs..)