Power Adders Getting a Supercharger or Turbocharger? Thinking about using Nitrous? All forced induction and N2O topics discussed here.

got car redynoed

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Old Apr 20, 2003 | 12:36 AM
  #1  
orangeroc383's Avatar
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From: Stow, OH USA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: th350
got car redynoed

Well I got my car dynoed again today after I put in the new in tank fuel pump. The torque numbers were alot better but the horsepower is still low. I am now at a 11.1 air to fuel ratio. A lot better than 18.1 tomorrow I am going to put nitrous on it. I am going to use a 100 shot. I have a kit from a 3.8l v6 firebird. If I use just the nozzle and jet from that kit will my FMU enrichin my fuel enough for the nitrous?
Attached Thumbnails got car redynoed-dyno3.jpg  
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Old Apr 20, 2003 | 09:49 AM
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
dont try it, use a jet. you might run a little rich but the other way you will be toast
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Old Apr 20, 2003 | 10:31 AM
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Not worth trying. Just use another jet. Running rich with N20 is waaaaaay better than going lean. You go lean you buy new parts, not good. Especially since you plan on running a 100 HP shot. you might be able to get away with it on a smaller dose, but again not worth trying.
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Old Apr 20, 2003 | 10:14 PM
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orangeroc383's Avatar
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From: Stow, OH USA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: th350
I already have a supercharger I wanted to know if I use a 100hp shot of nitrous if the FMU would enrichen the fuel enough for both or would I have to get a wet kit and try to richen it up even more.
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Old Apr 21, 2003 | 12:10 AM
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Car: 91 Z28
I still don't know, I am not too familiar with the superchared Fuel management. I would play it safe and get a wet kit or make your dry kit into a wet one. Running lean is even more of a concern since your super charged. Its a lot to take a chance on. I saw that you are in Stow, where did you get your ride dynoed? I was looking for a good place here in NE Oh.
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Old Apr 21, 2003 | 02:46 AM
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From: Medford, Oregon
Car: 1989 Iroc Z L98
Damn if those are rear wheel numbers that torque is insane. 600 ft lbs at the flywheel???
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Old Apr 21, 2003 | 04:36 PM
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orangeroc383's Avatar
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From: Stow, OH USA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: th350
Yes, that is rear wheel horsepower and torque. I got the car dynoed at Big shot dyno in hudson. here is the link www.bigshotdyno.com.
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Old Apr 21, 2003 | 04:46 PM
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orangeroc383's Avatar
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From: Stow, OH USA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: th350
Just got a pic of my car during the dyno run.
Attached Thumbnails got car redynoed-dyno1s.jpg  
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Old Apr 21, 2003 | 05:16 PM
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nice. Good work!
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Old Apr 21, 2003 | 07:21 PM
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Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
why did they display STD hp instead of SAE? SAE makes it comparable
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Old Apr 23, 2003 | 07:30 PM
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The FMU will not compensate for the nitrous hit by itself on a "dry" system. It's boost-referenced ONLY. It doesn't know from nitrous.

Dry systems use their OWN "FMU" that bumps up the FP when the nitrous goes active. I would be concerned about the INTERACTION of the two different FMUs resulting in a weird fuel pressure curve.

A mild wet flow nitrous system might be one option- one that injects both nitrous and fuel through a separate set of jets and sprays out just behind the throttle body.

I think you've got more top end left in the current combo (even without nitrous) with some tuning. At this point things get more expensive, but tuning become incrementally more important on combos that stray farther and farther from stock.

Go slow and careful. Getting on the "bleeding edge" with a boosted or nitroused motor is NO FUN AT ALL. Stuff goes "bang" and you end up dropping 2-3 grand to repair it. Test, tune, retest, over and over. If funds are tight (when are they not?) then stay careful and conservative.

For instance, when using both boost and nitrous the spark curve should be addressed. Runnign without some kind of retard will land you in detonation city due to an over-advanced spark very quickly.

Last edited by Damon; Apr 23, 2003 at 07:35 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2003 | 03:11 PM
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by Damon
The FMU will not compensate for the nitrous hit by itself on a "dry" system. It's boost-referenced ONLY. It doesn't know from nitrous.

Dry systems use their OWN "FMU" that bumps up the FP when the nitrous goes active. I would be concerned about the INTERACTION of the two different FMUs resulting in a weird fuel pressure curve.
I saw a blower FMU rupture the diaphram and hydraulic the motor (bending one rod) when an NOS 5115 ry kit was activated.
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Old Apr 24, 2003 | 08:45 PM
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From: Stow, OH USA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: th350
I want to use the nitrous I just need to find a safe way of using it with the blower. I have a boost retard for the blower I think if I use just the FMU and get a richer disk for the fmu I should be ok. I hope
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Old Apr 25, 2003 | 06:16 PM
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Hmmmmm...... Just keep in mind that if you inject a 100 shot of giggle gas you have to match it with 100 HP worth of fuel. It's not like bumping up the pressure 5-10 lbs is gonna cover that. Even if it does, you'll run way rich under boost with the nitrous off.

It's important to understand EXACTLY where the extra fuel is coming from for each of the power adder systems. That's why wet-flow nitrous systems are so popular- they carry the extra fuel they need with them, without interacting with the boost enrichment process or even the N/A fuel flow process.

You're already laying down some real good numbers with the bolt-on blower. Don't get too greedy too fast. When you get into power adders it's REAL easy to make stuff go "boom". Run 2 separate power adders at the same time and it's even more of a tuning challenge.
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