Drac0nic

Wow, didn't realize you were doing slugs. What's in mind for a top end and a cam on this? I'll go with you kicking a rod out north of 600 at the wheels and nearer 650, provided you don't spin more than 6K or if you do you have ARP bolts in the rods. In regards to the power it makes I'll lean towards 500 at the wheels at 20 PSI provided you don't cripple it with a crappy cam/heads/intake and are willing to spin it enough. The rest is gonna be how willing you are to run racing gasoline/meth injection and turn it up.

formulakeith

that does look like a lot of work lol, and time more than anything

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Yea pistons and some cheap h-beams, gm block/crank, ported 113s with Tooley Racing springs and the biggest stick the heads will take. Also ARP rod bolts, ARP studs for the mains and heads, maybe a short fill but i doubt it.

I would like to touch 7k and max out my 85lb injectors on E85 but that's getting scary on the stock block and GM crank. I will keep it under 6k at first

formulakeith

Hey I'm doing a twin turbo setup on my 89 formula 350, did u ever run a boost referenced igntion? I didn't see you mention one, so you just tuned it according to your eprom? I think that part of that last failure, is no ignition retard, doesn't help, I grenaded a L98 on 360hp, lasted for 3500 miles, N/A. No I'm doing a nice setup with some cheaper 57mm twin turbos from DNA motoring. Let me know if you get this

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Yes I always ran a boost referenced ignition, the last failure was a direct result of a boost control issue.

The previous engine dyno'd 300/355 rw, and lasted 20k miles before boost

formulakeith

I'm trying to decide, go with the cheap manual boost control or bleed of style or spend more and get a precision turbos one, but it has a solenoid too, but that failed on you, what kind did you use on your old setup? I was willing to run 8-10psi with my twins on a 305TPI with a large intercooler and methanol injection, but after I see some of your pistons, I was like ****! Those stock pistons suck. I can do 465hp under some boost, but can I do it with 8psi? IDk, I just wanted like 425hp for the time being, then put my built forged motor in, and then reak havoc with the turbos. U have a nice setup, I mean it worked, did you ever run it at the track? Prior to destruction? lol

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I used a GM solenoid, and am going to use one again. If your read back after further investigation I'm not sure the soliniod failed, it may have been how i had the controler settings!

You shouldnt have an issue with stock pistons at only 450hp. My pistons were stock LT1 pistons in a GENI engine, and were only an issue because the saw WAY to much boost and were on a bad tune since I didnt have my tables out that far.

I ran it at the track but noly when I had major issues, 97 MPH with three crossed plug wries, leaking intake gaskets, and 6psi. Once I got those issues resolved it pick up a TON of power, first and second gear were useless, and third gear was if i was on anything but warm grooved concrete. On street tires of course, but it was making some decent power. It was certainly faster that it was NA

formulakeith

Yeah, it sounds pretty nice, I'm doing upward mounted turbos, and then running the downpipes into my dual exhaust, its gonna be tight. I have to put battery in trunk, then run compressor sides of turbos to passenger side to a y, into my 3" in/out intercooler, then back up the drivers side through BOV into MAF, then motor, so MAF won't see when the BOV goes off, it won't send false readings to the motor and foul things up. I am gonna run 24# injectors, adjust fuel pressure, and that can support my 465 already, I'm gonna run stock 350 tune, and adjust base timing, and run maybe the mallory 685 ignition, the turbos and intercooler and tubing isn't much, it may add an extra 650 for boost controller and ign. I may run a precission turbo unit, its like $221

quadgoat

iTrader: (1)

Hey Alex! Have you made any more progress on the twin turbo setup? Haven't seen any updates for a while, hope all is well!

-Paul

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I'm still building the house and working a bunch so not much progress!

I have a mountain of parts just need to put it all together!

quadgoat

iTrader: (1)

Gotcha, sounds like you're keeping busy!! Good luck with all of it!

-Paul

lyrikz74

Well, iwas on the fence on turboing, and im in after this thread.

One question, this bugged me from the beginning of this build till now.
WHAT THE HELL IS $59??? ahaha

What is that?

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

$59 is a computer code for electronic fuel injection that is used in place of the stock code computer code. It is tailored towards forced induction compared to the stock code.

The name "$59" is derived from "$58" which is the stock code for a GMC cyclone/typhoon that is the parent code for "$59"

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Got a few hours to work on the Camaro

Turbo is mounted, made a bracket with some angle and a new turbo flange, it mounts to the idler arm bolting. This new placement will make it much easier to work on, the air filter wont be a crammed in there, the charge pipe to intercooler will have better routing, and the oil drain will have a better slope.







I also got a set of v-band flanges and some 90*s on the hot side they go just over the sway bar. I tacked together a merge pipe (two 2.5" to 3") as well, just need to fit it in between the radiator and pulleys and bring it to the turbo

esc

iTrader: (6)

Nice!
I'm looking forward to seeing what else you come up with.

JordanStoltz87

Man this thread is great, and You did an amazing job on that car! It answered a lot of questions I had too. (I'm trying to do the same setup nearly.) Sorry about the engine, but it looks like you're already onto the next one.

I was wondering, did you have to special order the Sanderson headers or if you get them straight from jegs or summit? It looked like they fit well right out of the box, Despite the awful customer service they seem to work well enough, if you run across the exact set you used on the webs please drop a reply, i'd really appreciate it.

Thanks for documenting so much of your build, I hope you post more soon!

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I bought the headers direct from Sanderson, I think that is the only place to get them. The are 1 5/8" "CC2" maybe? I don't remember! It's been a while lol

Well so since my last post I have built a house (couple months to go!) and got married sooooo not much done on the camaro. I'll post up more when I get something done haha

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Got the merge done and on the existing piping. Just have to connect the merge to the turbo flange then I can move on to the downpipe and wastegate.

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Pretty slick idea. Amazed you can squeeze that in with the stock Kmember.

Looks good!

Jay

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Lookin good! Is that all 2.5"? Probably could have used 2.25" for better fitment and still be plenty of pipe for that turbo

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

yea it's TIGHT! It has not been easy, each new piece i add takes about a while to get adjusted and angled just right. There is about 0.250" between the exhaust and nearest component.

I really wanted this setup to be four things that the old setup was not:

1. symmetric
2. out of the way, the last setup was up top and honestly miserable to work around, it was hot, itchy (wrap), and was in the way of everything
3. easy to swap to a larger turbo (over 1" of room around the current one)
4. able to route the A/C lines so I can unbolt the compressor and fold it out of the way to work on the engine

I looked at some OEM turbo engine packaging schemes and the 4th gen APS kit and though if they can cram everything in that tight so can I!

Yes all 2.5" - hindsight is 20/20 and 2.25" would have probably been a better choice, but this leaves room to grow when the 305 lets go and/or I run out of turbo. I'm very ready to have the "turbo kit" built so I can mess with engines/tuning for a while. It I had just stuck with the old hotside I would have been on the road a year ago

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

He's quite the fabricator isn't he?

-- Joe

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Gotta admit, he really is. Between him and TwinTurboRoc, they both come up with some really incredible concepts.

Glad to see this build was revived...

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Well I ended up going to a 3" instead of 2.5" after the merge. It was going to end up with so many small peices to transition to a 2.5 that it would be quite a hack job IMO. The t4 flange fits a 3" perfectly anyway so it makes that easier too. Now I need to order some more v-band flanges and clamps (all 3") so I can complete the hotside and downpipe.

I fit the 3" pipe to the merge and welded all the seams up. Welds were a little hot in places I had to fill a lot due to some poor fitting pie peices but I'm pretty happy with it overall, and the merge valley weld came out pretty good considering how far I had the tungsten sticking out of the cup!

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Looks great! I wish I would have thought of this idea when I have my LT1 turbo setup in the works.

Jay

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

No doubt it looks great. I don't get why you put the in pipe directly in the middle of the radiator. That is a lot of heat the could have been put closer to the turbo. I am not a believer in the symmetric piping, maybe that is why. Yes, I would have went 2.25" pipes. Would have worked great even with the bigger engine.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I originally tried to take it under/in-front of the harmonic balancer, and merge them in the idler arm/lower radiator hose area but without moving the radiator forward there just isn't much room and you run into either the steering components or the lower radiator hose, or the passenger side fan motor. If you did force it in there and somehow managed to get a decent merge without cheating one side or the other, it would be very difficult to put v-bands in the rights places so it can be removed from the car easily.

The routing is certainly a compromise to retain A/C, keep the rest of the stock parts like the radiator and fans in place, and make it easy to work on. If I was doing a max effort build the turbo(s!) would be as close to the heads as possible.

As far as heat near the radiator, there is at least 2.5" of clearance at the tightest point, so even without a coat/wrap it wont even be an issue. I am most concerned about heating the oil pan up, but some kaowool should take care of it if it's an issue

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Look what followed me home!

Compete running when pulled 1986 LB9 as far as I can tell, aftermarket timing cover and injectors, so who knows what it really is!

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

picked up some rods, 5.7" Scat Pro-Competition 4340 rods with 7/16" ARP 8740 bolts.

Scat rates these rods to 700HP and 7000rpm so they should be about right for my built 305.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Slowly but surely, need to clean up some burrs I missed before welding the merge but the shape and transition came out well



The next piece of the puzzle:



Ended up needing a little more room in front of the waterpump so I'm going to shorten it and modify the pulley for an extra 1/4".

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

nice job man....I am in the process of putting twins into mine.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Tweaked the piping so I don't have to modify the waterpump, and cut the last section of pre turbo pipe tonight. Used up my last part off wheel so I couldn't final fit it and tack it in, but this gives you a pretty good idea of what it will look like. Hardest part left is gonna be the waste gate plumbing since I want it tied into the dp, just not a lot of good places to put it that won't look like crap

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! I like your new hotside, makes me think I have way too much piping!

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Yeah I almost said screw it and sold everything and went with a supercharger.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I can certainly understand the piping headaches. I would like to try an intercooled screw blower but they are spendy!

Got the pre-turbo exhaust built all the way to the turbo tonight! I'm very happy with how it came out, took my time so there shouldn't be any clearance issues, it's level/parallel with the radiator plastic, and the part you see up by the turbo has nice fit ups so the welds should look nice. Next is the downpipe, and then the waste gate plumbing.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Looking good man and that is some nice fab work!

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Downpipe is halfway done, the easy part lol

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Coming along well man. The down pipe for a single setup is usually easy vs what I am going through with my twin setup.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

it's easy so far, getting under that A/C box and past the starter w/ a 3" v-band assembly right there is going to take some time

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Do you have a mini starter? makes it easier.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

yes I do have to have one with the way my headers are, its just hard test fitting pieces of pipe with such little visibility. Also the 3" v-band assembly is like a 4" pipe with the clamp on so that is gonna be TIGHT

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Bring the v-band down around the bell housing area just past the starter . That's how I did mine when I had the single turbo setup.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

I want to be able to pull the down-pipe (upper section at least) without pulling the header so plug changes are easy. I'll give that a shot though, hopefully it'll work and i can still sneak the DP out the top!

86CamaroDan

Im really liking this build. I was hell bent on a blower but this is convincing me otherwise.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Got distracted when my buggie engine case came back from the machine shop... Hehe too many projects!

Sold the intake off the spare 305 I have, looks like a flat tappet cam and a double roller timing chain, who knows what cam is in this sucker lol

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

Mystery motor cam lifts measured at .402 intake and .414 at the valve so it's the stock "hot" lb9 cam from '85

Oh well, better than the peanut cam! Compression feels ok turning it over by hand

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

so a year later I did try your idea - it worked! I can pull the downpipe out of the top, so I'm happy.

here is the completed hot side minus the waste gate, just have to connect it to the exhaust



The the downpipe exit under the ac box and header



A little closer view, there is about 6mm clearance between the pipe and frame rail. So much room for plug changes!!!



You can see how the vband clamp and bend to the stock exhaust routing will work

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

That's awesome. Glad you took up my suggestion.

sailtexas186548

iTrader: (2)

not dead! been on life support for a while LOL but i'm around

Interior is all back together minus the head liner, and the under dash panels are out since I'm still working on the front end of the car: