AmorgetRS

iTrader: (6)

Oil return question - I have had horrible luck with the oil return on the 2 cars I turbo'd. Does that pump actually suck the oil out of the turbo? Is that how you get away with the line going back up?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Lol yes it has alot of suction for what it is. Thats why it works. I run the same deal in my race car

???

iTrader: (5)

interesting thread. always fun to follow your builds. I think a dead stock 305 a4 car running a 109mph for 1700$ is pretty solid man. my 91 tpi 5 speed car with header, 3.42, cam and a 100 shot wwent 109, better et at 12.6 but the shot did that. no tuning and tthat was in llike 93 before we even knew what a drag radial was haha. i had blast rracing all the new "fast" lt1 that sstarted to come around. back then they ran 14.1 at 100. point being. stock 1991 305 running 109 in daily trim is good.


oh and as for the stock tach. it's common, there's a quick fix on this board. you do have to pull the cluster, but it's a quick solder a 220 ohm resistor across two pins and it'sfixed thing.


i had the 91 305 single cat 5 speed car and my buddy has a 90 305 dualcat tpi 5 speed car. we put headers on both, 20 + plus years ago when we were kids. but the exhaust manifolds were different, mine had like a 1 7/8 opening, his like 2 1/4 or something like that. so even iftthe cam was the same in auto cars. if it's a dual or single cat was different. not sure that matters much with a rear mount turbo thou.

I do remember the stock Springs being horrible. we put a old slp 214/224 cam in it years later and didn't do Springs haha, kids. and it went slower. always shifted at 5k. did Springs and it picked up. we wanted to do Springs only on the stock cam in his car, but never found the money.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I did try the tach fix and with 3 different clusters later, still never worked right. I soldered the first resistor on stock board and the speedo board fried! Got a couple new clusters and tried again, still never worked. I gave up

But car needs head gaskets, and valvesprings to really shine with boost. Plus converter and drag radials. I took all the turbo stuff off at the moment because i'm not sure what i want to do. Was going to move turbo up front but now may return back to stock and drive for a bit, or maybe sell it to fund the new black car build

I had some major issues with the twin turbo car so this one is now on hold. If i want to get the car up and running this year, i need to sell this blue car to fund it but i dont really want to. Lol so may hold on for a bit longer

???

iTrader: (5)

weird it didn't work, it fixed mine rright up. I did it forever ago thou.


looking forward to update on your builds

ion123456

I found this while looking for rear mount oil drain solution. I've built a rear mount for my mazda cx-5 awd and I was having a big dumping issue. didn't realize how bad until I realized how oiled my half compeleted charge piping was, and the spray of oil all under my car..I'm thinking a drain issue (my turbo is clocked to drain at 45* from vertical into a 45* an-10 fitting for ground clearance), or I was blowing seals due to too high psi through the turbo. It's a journal bearing and my system is two stage going from about 10-30 psi to 50-80+. I have a turbowerx base model pump.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Doing this over again i would have possibly done a small reservoir box under the drain then straight across to the turbowerx. Or a bigger drain line for first few inches to improve the radius. It was -10 size but there was a slight kink in it

Oh well, fun project but its over. Sold off the kit for the most part and returning back to stock. Probably going to sell the car this summer. Need cash for the new build for the race car