anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Hood pins?

I'd love to run my intercooler like that and feed the throttle body directly. Lose a bunch of bends, but I don't feel like cutting the radiator support apart.

-- Joe

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

I run the Aerocatch hood latches. Real nice quality and very sturdy. They also have a brace on the backside too.

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

New setup
Filters installed
Exhaust completed. No more front dumps.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Looking real good man, keep up the great work!

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Came out really sweet. Any sound clips?

- Rob

86CamaroDan

Is that a Tial Q BOV? Looks good, how quiet is it now?

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Just an idle clip. Not quite finished with the car yet but I will get some videos this year.

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

It is a generic one I believe. 50 mm. Not much quieter but I haven't had it outside yet.

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Thank you sir.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

You got a new bike?

-- Joe

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

LOL. My Road Glide I have had for a couple years with only 1000 miles on it. Should've kept my Honda Sabre 1800. That's what I get when I listen to the wife when she said get a new Harley. Biggest mistake ever.. I could really do without the payment each month.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Ehh. Yeah.. I hear that. The road glide is a nice bike. I thought about a road glide / street glide for taking the girl riding, but I don't wanna drop $24k on a bike right now. She can stay home. Passenger seat on the ninja is very small lol.

-- Joe

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Buy mine. 22,500 with a few mods done already

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

A little late to the party but that exhuast is basically open on the passenger side and that open part is T-ed into the pipe, only the passenger side goes through the muffler.

They typically sound awful.

It seems like you can make a lot of room by cutting the core support, and in some cases make your car stronger. The thing that aways stopped me is that there used to be a bunch of street classes that any modification to the core support disqualified you, but I belive that is no longer the case anywhere, I'm not sure.

what mufflers are those?

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

They are Magnaflow 14419's

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

How's the ground clearance on that ? I'm on the fence about how I feel about dumping the exhaust in front of the rear wheels. I think it would make life a little easier in some ways, but I wouldn't wanna run the car in the shop that way. Hrmm. That is amazingly clean though.


I have a pair of those mufflers on the shelf, left over from another project.

Actually, I have enough parts on the shelf to build at least two cars. I've been scouring craigslist but can't find anything worth building.

-- Joe

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Looks like my air filters are restrictive....lost 6 lbs of boost since I put them on.....Time to go back to the drawing board.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

What filters?

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

What are you using for filters?

-- Joe

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I don't know that much about air filters and Turbos, but in the Diesel world people get in trouble with a filter that small. Supposedly they can suck the cap and pull part of the filter into the turbo. I don't normally post against what people do on projects, or I would have mentioned that earlier

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I see thats a vibrant filter. Kinda surprised you see that much loss. I used aem dryflow filters and did not see any difference under 17 or so psi

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Thats interesting to hear about the filters. I know that putting restrictive filters on turbos/superchargers essentially is like putting a restrictor on boost. I dont see how a quality filter like vibrant would kill flow that much... but its all about flow. You dont seem to have room for anything bigger and adding bends before restricts flow.


I have been looking at putting a larger quality filter on my turbo LS, its a single but it runs the cheap ebay CX foam filter it came with as I literally dont have room for anything. The filter is litterally pressing against the rad support area so I would need to run a cobra elbow but dont have the room under for a large filter. So far the foam filter doesnt seem to be holding me back tho. Its been from 6psi to 10.2psi, always thought it would restrict it but seems to be doing fine surprisingly... maybe look into the cheap foam ones? This is the style https://www.ebay.com/itm/HKS-3-Inch-...ss!07052!US!-1

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

I am running the Vibrant 10931 filters on this setup due to the space I had. I had changed hot side setups over the winter but the springs are supposed to be 14 psi springs... But with the filters on I am only seeing most of is 9 psi of boost.

ORR I have also looked into those filters but didn't want the foam to be sucked into the turbo.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

So you've run without the filters and get your 6psi back?

-- Joe

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

No Foam getting sucked into my turbo from the ebay HKS style foam filters. And ive had it off more times than I can count. Been up to 10.2psi and no issues.



Side note the hotside can change the backpressure or the flow into the WG and affect the pressure the valve sees. supposidly my 60mm WG has a 12psi spring in it, it opens at 12-14psi on a compressor but that doesnt take into account the backpressure in the hotside, i get 6psi from that spring.

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Ill find out this week sometime. I just know I didn't change much and the filters would explain the loss of boost

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Double check before and after with and without filters

Gates should still regulate boost to the same as the filters would just suction throttle the inlet.

The aem ones dont come shorter than 5” long but never sucked one in lol. I sucked a silicone elbow shut on 17 psi tho lol. I made passes without the filters and did not make any difference in my car. Never tried on high boost tho

I would also look at turbo guard screens. Wont catch super small particles but will keep big stuff out . Under engine bay you shouldnt have to much crap getting up into turbos

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

True on the turbo Guard screens. I would like to see a steady 14-17 psi once finished...I do have a couple other springs to use. A smaller 4 psi spring and a 17 lb spring.

I am hoping the weather changed up here for the weekend...prediction is rain again.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Try a manual controller to readjust? Lol usually get a fairly accurate double over spring psi

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Haven't put much thought into a manual boost control...I would probably get a little greedy when it comes into boost.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

running a MBC with a 6psi spring I have been up to 10psi roughly and still have adjustment. voodoo with ceramic ball upgrade. Does work...

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I have taken 8 psi to 18 before but it got sketchy on adjustment after 4 turns. Was lb per turn for about 4 turns and then half got like 4 psi.
On the dyno i went 12 to 17 with 1 turn. Street it was 1 lb more. It can be dangerous lol but stay within few psi over spring is usually fine. And always preset your fuel map to dump excess fuel in overboost

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

You guys are not running electronic boost controllers ?

-- Joe

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I was on AMS 500 electronic on my last combo

My 305 i was not and my first twin turbo setup that went high 9’s was on a manual

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Welp, One turbo decided to stop spinning and once I took it apart I found the front compressor plate housing worn where the thrust bearing was. It looks like the casting had failed somehow, not really sure. I also found the compressor wheel had a few worn down fins too.

I decided to just buy some new 72 mm turbos with a 96 a/r and call it a day. I will be posting up the other Master Power 60 trim turbo for sale with a coated exhaust housing for cheap money. Pics to follow soon.

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Update. Ended up buying 2 72mm turbos with .68 turbine housings, Single Walbro fuel pump with a fuel pump relay kit, New msd ignition coil and GM roller rockers. Had it dyno tuned finally and since last Wednesday was very hot and humid managed to squeeze out 560 rwhp. Its obvious my cam needs to go bigger since the power starts dropping off around 6100 rpm. The cam I am using has a range of 2000 to 6000 rpms. I guess a call to a few cam companies will be necessary. I am reaching for 650 rwhp. Hopefully.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

at what boost #?

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

The gauge said 12 or 13 psi but the tuner said the Holley gauge screen on the Efi said 16 lbs.

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Also noted the tuner said when he would try to load it more down low it would break up when he got into it higher up. So he didn't tune it for more down low. If that makes any sense to you.. Mind you the plugs are gapped at .018 using Ngk 5671a-7 plugs.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Tuner? I thought you were tuning it ?

-- Joe

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

the most part I did....But needed it to be professionally tuned for the rest.

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Well, I have been stock piling some parts to tear back into the engine within the next month.
Custom Comp Cams turbo cam
220cc Scorpion cylinder heads all setup and ready to go along with the necessary gaskets as well to do the cam and cylinder head swap.
I just might toss on a new oil pan while I am at it. Mine seems to seep a little.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Make sure you get a quality oil catch can. I was pushing oil, but soon as I installed this catch can all my crank case issues and oil issues went away. Make sure to choose the -12 AN fitting, it supports 1200hp. This catch can really works!
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...t-page/pcv-can

Kingtal0n

A catch can is for an engine with ring sealing issues, aged worn with blow-by that forces oil from orifices. Catch can is a band-aid to be used while waiting to replace an engine. Basically when I see a catch can I assume the engine is on its last leg. Some people install them to perfectly healthy engines though- which is a mistake, since catchcan volume becomes part of the crankcase total volume which reduces the effectiveness of the PCV system on whole. The point of the PCV system is to draw down the crankcase pressure during both cruise and boost. The PCV system is not correctly connected in the pictures above because it is missing the pre-compressor, post-filtered atmospheric source for PCV in boost. In other words, there should be a hose that runs from pre-compressor inlet pipe to the crankcase fresh air source somewhere, in order to keep pressure in the crankcase below atmospheric during boost, which will help keep oil inside the engine, improve piston ring seal (ever so slightly), keep the oil cleaner and improves engine efficiency. It is a longevity mod often discarded in the event of actual racing events, where max power is required and engine longevity and oil seepage is not an issue (because they intend to replace or rebuild it anyways for next season).

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

Thank you for clearing everything up about catch cans. So I guess you enjoy oil coking in the intake and oil carbon on your intake valves, all cars consume oil even new ones, but I'm not just talking about a normal catch can because they are not all equal! Please read Mighty Mouse Solutions complete line of catch cans, he covers everything you just mentioned. Also the above mentioned PCV catch can that he recommends, it does exactly what you are saying about the PCV system. It eliminates crank case pressure at cruise as well as under boost. It also has instruction telling you to make sure to use a filtered clean air source pre compressor for boosted applications. I would not recommend anything to another board member if it does not work. Like I said before I was having crank case issues under boost only and when I installed this catch can after being highly recommended, it fixed all my crank case issues under boost. Mind you I do understand the effects of crank case pressure and how it effect overall performance by unseating the rings. And yes it can happen to freshly built engines and not just tired worn out engines. I also installed a check valve on the clean air side so the no oil blows towards the pre compressor side under boost. Works perfectly as it should!

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

I'm not running a catch can. I just ran the PCV vac source from the air-filter side of the compressor. At idle it doesn't really pull much vac, if any since the air filter is the least restriction, but I suspect at higher RPM it pulls some.

I considered a catch can (not open), simply to catch risidual oil from getting sucked up by the PCV, but I switched over to stock-type baffled valve covers so I'm hoping oil ingestion into the PCV is minimal.

The better solution would probably be a belt driven vacuum pump though.

-- Joe

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

I run one Moroso catch can on each side and my engine was perfectly healthy.

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Definitely some good information here.

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

On another note....putting my Holley Stealth Ram up for sale with the throttle body and fuel rails only. Going with a Holley 300-260 style intake,. It suits my rpm range more as well especially with the new camshaft .have already torn into the engine and have installed the new cam and cylinder heads. I"m just waiting on some other parts to arrive to finish the job

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Ive been running a moroso oil/air separator with a Mcmaster Carr check valve with my boosted SBE 5.3 for 3 years... its s must as well. Its inline on the driver side valve cover in the PCV system. Check valve is necessary otherwise you will push boost into the crank case while your in boost.

JAZ mini catch can with filter on top on my pass valve cover as well with no issues. It hasn't pushed any oil into it that Ive noticed under boost (none has drained out). But I get some oil in the separator that I dump out every month (just an ounce or two).

Alot can be said of newer engines in need of things that Kingtalon would comment about being incorrect. My stock 5.7 HEMI in my 14 and 18 RAMs have horrendous PCV systems which leads back to piston rings and blowby. The stock PCV system sucks up so much oil into the intake in a short amount of time its insane. They also in stock form run the PCV line back to the filter box which allows oil to be sucked through the entire intake tube (sensors and all), Gum up the TB and intake. I also have a Diablo oil/air separator on my 5.7 HEMI and I literally have to dump out 4+ ounces of oil from it in a months time (less than 500 miles a month). Its actually normal according to Chrysler that the engines loose 2qts of oil in a normal 5k oil change schedule. Again this is NORMAL for these engines even if we dont like it an are not used to it.

Increased ring gaps for BOOST/N20 will cause added blow by and increase the oil wanting to come out of the crank case vapors resulting in a mess if you dont contain it. Nothing wrong with catch cans/oil air separators on these motors.