Going from a single turbo to twins
#401
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Regardless of blowby, a lot of oil splatter is happening in the valve covers. You want negative pressure in your crank case (testing has shown it actually helps with ring sealing), so you need to suck from somewhere. Valve covers make the most sense.
Remember road tubes on older sbc? lol..
-- Joe
#402
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Car: 86' IROC
Engine: Supercharged 350
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Ive been running a moroso oil/air separator with a Mcmaster Carr check valve with my boosted SBE 5.3 for 3 years... its s must as well. Its inline on the driver side valve cover in the PCV system. Check valve is necessary otherwise you will push boost into the crank case while your in boost.
JAZ mini catch can with filter on top on my pass valve cover as well with no issues. It hasn't pushed any oil into it that Ive noticed under boost (none has drained out). But I get some oil in the separator that I dump out every month (just an ounce or two).
Alot can be said of newer engines in need of things that Kingtalon would comment about being incorrect. My stock 5.7 HEMI in my 14 and 18 RAMs have horrendous PCV systems which leads back to piston rings and blowby. The stock PCV system sucks up so much oil into the intake in a short amount of time its insane. They also in stock form run the PCV line back to the filter box which allows oil to be sucked through the entire intake tube (sensors and all), Gum up the TB and intake. I also have a Diablo oil/air separator on my 5.7 HEMI and I literally have to dump out 4+ ounces of oil from it in a months time (less than 500 miles a month). Its actually normal according to Chrysler that the engines loose 2qts of oil in a normal 5k oil change schedule. Again this is NORMAL for these engines even if we dont like it an are not used to it.
Increased ring gaps for BOOST/N20 will cause added blow by and increase the oil wanting to come out of the crank case vapors resulting in a mess if you dont contain it. Nothing wrong with catch cans/oil air separators on these motors.
JAZ mini catch can with filter on top on my pass valve cover as well with no issues. It hasn't pushed any oil into it that Ive noticed under boost (none has drained out). But I get some oil in the separator that I dump out every month (just an ounce or two).
Alot can be said of newer engines in need of things that Kingtalon would comment about being incorrect. My stock 5.7 HEMI in my 14 and 18 RAMs have horrendous PCV systems which leads back to piston rings and blowby. The stock PCV system sucks up so much oil into the intake in a short amount of time its insane. They also in stock form run the PCV line back to the filter box which allows oil to be sucked through the entire intake tube (sensors and all), Gum up the TB and intake. I also have a Diablo oil/air separator on my 5.7 HEMI and I literally have to dump out 4+ ounces of oil from it in a months time (less than 500 miles a month). Its actually normal according to Chrysler that the engines loose 2qts of oil in a normal 5k oil change schedule. Again this is NORMAL for these engines even if we dont like it an are not used to it.
Increased ring gaps for BOOST/N20 will cause added blow by and increase the oil wanting to come out of the crank case vapors resulting in a mess if you dont contain it. Nothing wrong with catch cans/oil air separators on these motors.
#403
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
What are you using for a vacuum source on the cans?
Regardless of blowby, a lot of oil splatter is happening in the valve covers. You want negative pressure in your crank case (testing has shown it actually helps with ring sealing), so you need to suck from somewhere. Valve covers make the most sense.
Remember road tubes on older sbc? lol..
-- Joe
Regardless of blowby, a lot of oil splatter is happening in the valve covers. You want negative pressure in your crank case (testing has shown it actually helps with ring sealing), so you need to suck from somewhere. Valve covers make the most sense.
Remember road tubes on older sbc? lol..
-- Joe
#407
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Just an update...I am waiting on some poly locks then I can reset the valve lash and fire it up again. I have also retrofitted the Speed Engineering 3" dual exhaust onto the car as well. I will post pictures up soon.
#410
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I finally have a full exhaust on the car. Speed engineering dual 3 inch and all I had to do was modify the front section to merge with my down pipes. It sounds really nice. And so glad I won't have to deal with the exhaust fumes coming back into the car on long drives.
#413
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
My buddy needs a blower cam for his Vortech LT1 build
I'm running the NX276 and it's a fantastic cam. I actually enjoy driving my Formula with the 3000 stall TH350.
-- Joe
#417
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Car: 1985 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 385
Transmission: th700r4+Edge 2800 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Have you measured how much is ground clearance with speed engineering exhaust?
#421
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I'll upload some new pictures when I can but I do have an update on what the powerplant makes. 630 rwhp 560 rwtq with 12 psi. not too shabby out of a 355 sbc. I am sure there is a little more power that can be made but I wanted to enjoy the rest of the year driving the car.
#423
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Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I finally have a full exhaust on the car. Speed engineering dual 3 inch and all I had to do was modify the front section to merge with my down pipes. It sounds really nice. And so glad I won't have to deal with the exhaust fumes coming back into the car on long drives.
#425
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Any pics of how you merged the DPs into the Speed engineering dual 3"? Running a single turbo its not needed but If I ever wanted to go twins (I got a nice new set of VS 61/62s sitting in a box) I would want to run dual 3" than a single 3" and I don't like the 4" catbacks.
#427
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
What are you running for fuel pump and wiring?
No dyno time on mine, but I was running out of fueling dialing in WOT.
No dyno time on mine, but I was running out of fueling dialing in WOT.
#430
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
Hopefully this spring I'll have some time for NED. Car should be all set. It's been dead reliable, and now that the fuel supply issue is delt with it should pull up to 6200 without going lean.
-- Joe
#431
Re: Going from a single turbo to twins
I pulled my car in the trailer, and somehow my (new) front right tire got a flat.. wtf.
Hopefully this spring I'll have some time for NED. Car should be all set. It's been dead reliable, and now that the fuel supply issue is delt with it should pull up to 6200 without going lean.
-- Joe
Hopefully this spring I'll have some time for NED. Car should be all set. It's been dead reliable, and now that the fuel supply issue is delt with it should pull up to 6200 without going lean.
-- Joe
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