battmann

iTrader: (9)

I bought CXRacing's LS turbo kit (TRB-KIT-LS-CAMARO8292-IC) last month when they were having a storewide 10% off sale. Here is the kit:
https://www.cxracing.com/index.php?r...roduct_id=2264

This past weekend I had to mock-up the kit because I'm getting the engine bay painted soon. It's a very comprehensive setup. Pretty much everything you need is in there and it fits very well. There are no instructions so I thought I'd share what I did so far.

Step One: Install headers. The kit doesn't come with any header bolts or gaskets so you'll need to get these. Plenty of clearance around the headers for bolt and spark plug access.

Step Two: Install the crossover hot side pipe. Then install the turbo on PS header. The kit includes all the v-band clamps. You'll have to play around with the rotation of the turbo once you get more of the pipes hooked up. I rotated the turbo so I had a finger of clearance between that and the fender well.







Step 4: Connect exhaust pipe to the turbo. The pipe goes under the PS header towards the firewall (you can see it under there in the first picture below). The second piece of the pipe connects and runs down under the PS side of the car. I didn't fully install the second pipe because the lift arm is right near where this pipe has to go. I am running a 4L80E and had to cut off the PS ear of the bellhousing to make room for the pipes.







Step 5: Install the wastegate on the PS header collector. The clamp that comes in the kit sucks and I couldn't get the ends to touch to put the bolt on. Maybe I was trying to use the wrong clamp - I don't know. I'll have to figure that out or get a better clamp. I don't have a picture cause I couldn't install it. The downpipe that connects to the wastegate pretty much points straight down. You'll have to adjust all the v-bands and rotate things so you clear the exhaust pipe on the turbo and idler arm down below.

That's all I have time to post for now, but I'll do more tonight.

battmann

iTrader: (9)

Step 6: Install the cold side pipe that attaches to the throttle body using the silicone coupler. The blow off valve attaches to the top of this pipe.




Step 7: Drill holes in the trays in front of the fender well for the cold side piping to the intercooler. I purchased a 4" diameter hole saw from harbor freight for this step. The kit was like $20 and you can always find a 20% off coupon. The DS was pretty easy to figure out. The PS was a little tricky since the turbo doesn't point straight down. You also have to be careful when you drill the PS because the frame rail is very close to where the pipe will need to go through the tray.









Step 8: Mount the intercooler. This kit is made for a third-gen camaro so the included "L" brackets don't work for a firebird / TA. The "L" brackets connect to the side of the headlight assembly on the camaro, but this area is different on a firebird.



I ended up cutting the included "L" bracket and welding the long leg to the core support. There's a small lip next to the core support opening which you'll have to cut and flatten out to weld the leg. After that install the long top bracket to the intercooler with the supplied bolts. Bolt the short leg to the intercooler top bracket and then weld the short leg to the long leg you previously welded to the core support. Do the same for the PS.







Step 9: Install the intercooler bottom support brackets. The kit comes with hardware and two "Z" shaped brackets to support the bottom of the intercooler. The front of the "Z" bracket just bolts to the bottom of the intercooler. The rear of the "Z" bracket is supposed to attach to the bottom of the core support, but it really doesn't reach. There were two aluminum spacers in the kit which I don't know what they're for. I used them to make up the difference between the "Z" bracket and the bottom of the core support. The spacers are threaded, but I just used smaller bolts that fit through the middle of them. Line up the "Z" bracket and drill a hole to install the bolts.



That's all I got so far. After this I pulled the drivetrain so the car could go back to the paint shop to get finished. I'm hoping to get the car back in a few weeks and then install everything. I'll post more pictures and info once that happens.

All-in-all I think this kit is worth the price. Everything bolts in fine and there's plenty of clearance around all the parts. It would have taken me forever to figure out and fabricate the headers and all this pipe work.

Badass355ciz28

iTrader: (17)

Looks like a nice setup.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

In for updates. This is looking very promising. Keep at it!

Jay_rich

iTrader: (4)

Looks like a pretty well thought out design! I like it. Looks like AC is even possible.

Jay

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Appears in the photos that a lot of the intercooler is shrouded and made useless. Is that really the case?

battmann

iTrader: (9)

the bumper impact bar is in front of the intercooler and there are plenty of openings. i didn't take a straight on picture. my bigger concern is will i be able to divert enough air up into the intercooler and radiator from below the car like the stock design. i want to use the solid Trans Am bumper inserts in my 1984 but i might have to use the louvered firebird ones or make openings in the front ground effect like the SCCA MSE cars:

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

I hope you upgraded your cooling fans, you will run hotter. I put in the dodge stratus fans and car runs cool now, factory fans couldn't move the air to keep it cool enough.

Ghettobird52

Damn great work!@ Maybe i cant tell from how the pics are taken but how will the accessories work with that pipe in front of the engine like that?

battmann

iTrader: (9)

I'm going to use an aluminum Mishimoto 2-row radiator and the stock dual 4th gen fans. I'm hoping that'll be good enough.

As for the accessories - there's plenty of room for them. I just didn't spend the time doing that now. I only installed what I needed to so I could fab the brackets & drill holes in the engine bay before paint. If you click on the CXRacing link in the first post you can see pics of the kit installed on an engine that has the front accessories in place.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

You are better off using your factory radiator and a set of shrouded Deral fans they move 4000 CFM of air. Even with the 4th gen fans w/shroud it will not be able to keep up because the 2-core radiator will be to thick and those stock fans do not move enough CFM. Thicker is not always better, but an aluminum sided single core radiator is better than stock because it does not have plastic sides. I do have a stock radiator with those Deral fans on my turbo set up with no cooling issues at all, but you will need to trim the core support about an 1" or so for a better fit and to clear the steering box.

These are the fans I made fit on my Camaro and on my buddies 88 GTA. They will set you back about $304.97 and make sure you have a good alternator. Believe me it's worth the money and time to make them fit.

https://www.summitracing.com/ga/part...6838/overview/

battmann

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the info and link zz17iroc

cypris09

iTrader: (1)

Hows this thing coming along? I sold my 355 and turbo stuff to move into the ls world. Now here i am playing with the idea of super charger or now a turbo. I like the fact i woulnt have to fab everything again. My racing innovation headers work for now but if im in the market for new headers i might as well throw a turbo on it right?

battmann

iTrader: (9)

nothing new to report yet. i'm still waiting for the paint shop to finish smoothing my engine bay and get it painted. might not do anything else to the car for another 2-3 weeks.

ZZ3Astro

After all the work that I had to put into my gen1 headers, this is just crazy to see this for under $2k! I had more money than that in materials for the headers alone. I will have to seriously consider the LS option when I sit down to start planning my new shortblock build. I can bolt my new turbo right up to this too!


How do you think accessories will fit? It looks like the crossover tube would have to be rebuilt to get a full accessory package in there. Low mount AC compressor should fit but their site says no AC.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Curious how the downpipe is gonna run

battmann

iTrader: (9)

i mentioned earlier in this thread that i didn't install any accessories because i was only mocking up what i needed to prepare the engine bay before paint. the accessories will fit fine - minus A/C like CXRacing's website states. i never planned to run A/C so that was fine with me. here's a picture from their site with the front accessories installed:


here's another picture that shows the downpipe:

cypris09

iTrader: (1)

This is definitely priced to sell. There's no doubt about that. I wonder when the next sale will be. Might have to start planning for a turbo.
How are the oil lines run on these? Do you need to change the map sensor or maf? Guess I'll have to start researching turboing a ls now.

lb9 GTA

Not that you would care at this point but CX also has SBC kits including a single 76mm kit for about the same money.

lb9 GTA

Looking at the first few pics I didn't think the waste gate was going to fit with a down pipe on the turbo but that fits like a glove.

9192camaro

Man I'm glad i stumbled on this thread my biggest questions other than what has already been established would be plug and wire accessibility then the turbos quality then the overall function after installed. Definitely looks like decent stuff at it's price point! Looks like it's going to be a good build!!

HP52TA

iTrader: (4)

Nice looking kit. Quality welds too.

Those intercooler brackets look a little light, but the rest of the kit seems quite impressive. Interested to see how she turns out. Quick spool should make it a great street car!

battmann

iTrader: (9)

sorry i haven't had any updates here. my engine bay is done at the paint shop so i should be picking the car up after memorial day to put the drivetrain back in and install most of the kit and accessories.
i've been debating on whether i should have the hot side pipes ceramic coated or not. seems like the coating is hit or miss on sticking to stainless steel. probably depends on the quality of who's doing the work, but i'd hate to pay to have this done and then the coating flakes off down the road.

zz17iroc

iTrader: (4)

I would use Jet Hot for sure I never had any issues with their coatings. Just get what they recommend, to me it's worth the money opposed to the other companies out there. Just my .

86White_T/A305

Buy a good turbo blanket while your at it! I havent had issues with heat with my custom setup..I wish this kit was around when I wanted to build my car.But I love it.Now im running 50/50 meth for high boost to ensure no iat troubles when pounding cars in the rearview. Heat wrap Everything! i also made the hood vents functional just incase also. Looking good sir.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

I called them about this kit a few months ago. Apparently it will only work with the car assessories (truck will not work) as I believe the alt and waterpump will contact.

This kit hit hit the market like a few months after I purchased my supercharger kit so I was kinda bummed. But your going to have to do a coil relocation kit and reroute the wires under the engine at a minimum.

No issues with ceramic coating sticking to SS. I had my RI LS swap SS headers done almost a year ago and they are still good. I don't mess with jet hot, I have a guy about 30 min away that fixes a lot of jet hots mistakes. So far 2 headers and never had one flake and it's alittle cheaper than jethot and no shipping.

Wish they would make a kit that fits truck accessories as that's wat 90% of guys run.

oh I also run the suggested derale dual fans and they do work great. Lots of amps on startup so be prepared.

LsxMatt

iTrader: (4)

Is there any chance of running A/C with this setup? I was looking at this kit, but unable to tell if i can fab it to keep A/C has me on the fence. Does the wastgate outlet interfere with the compressor, or is there just no room between the passenger header and the evaporator box? Really interested in this kit.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

first, in order to run AC in our cars you need to knotch the kmember. If u do that the AC will fit but the turbo fits right above and over the driver battery box. The dowpipe runs right where the AC would be after you knotched the kmember. So in short... no way to run AC in that location. Find a different spot or run it above it where the tensioner is but you won't clear any hood.

LsxMatt

iTrader: (4)

I've been running A/C on my swap for almost 3 years so I'd really hate to get rid of it. I have a stock ls compressor and the k member notched. As far as the downpipe i would probably just drill a hole and run it out the fender below the side marker light with no muffler. Im mostly concered about fitment as far as clearence between the passenger header and the evaporator box, as well as the turbo and what appears to be the downpipe for the wastegate, but that can always be moved i suppose 🤔.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

sorry man lol. The angle is all wrong coming out the back of the turbo for the down pipe. The exit is out and over the front frame rail. U can't run the pipe down and between due to the radiator/shroud or the lower Rad hose or the frame mount for the steering center link. If the turbo exit was farther over the battery tray you could try to put a short radius 90 and push it down through the battery tray and then out toward the side marker. Last thing you want to do is cut into the front subframe or route it under it as that's a low point and the factory has welded in large metal brackets for tow purposes.

At at this point it would prob be aside to run a rear mount turbo. Getting the 1 pipe from the rear of the car to engine will be the hardest part.

As also stated the large FMIC in front of the radiator in a TA will affect cooling performance. It did with mine so I went to A2W and it's much more consistent. On the camaros the front end is open and the FMIC work fine.

LsxMatt

iTrader: (4)

Ok thanks for telling me. Really couldn't tell from the photos. At this point i might just fab my own twin kit being i can mount each turbo next to each battery tray, then down and out each fender, or just go with a zl1 blower setup.

battmann

iTrader: (9)

Why do the coils need to be relocated? Is that only if you're trying to run A/C?

383backinblack

This looks great ... nice work. I think I need that intercooler for my setup. I rebuilt the whole nose of the car to fit the (shitty) procharger intercooler that comes with their setup like 10yrs ago, so it should fit nicely. It looks like a much bigger core.

Any idea what the flow numbers (or how much HP it's supposed to support)?

Slush92RS

iTrader: (6)

Yeah with that intercooler there, it WILL get hot! I know this from my personal experience. I have a Procharged 402 LS setup and my 4" thick I/C was mounted right above the plastic airdam and blocked all air going up and across the radiator. It would sit and idle all day long at 180 degrees, but after about 3-4 miles driving it would be heading up to 210-220 degrees and not coming back down. I have the Be Cool radiator and a 12 pusher fan on the front, with an offset 16 puller fan on the back. I recently removed the I/C and pulled the belt of the S/C and went for a drive. My car never got above 160 degrees going down the road. My next step is mounting the I/C further up and back towards the radiator to re-open the airflow path underneath.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

bingo.

Remove all that FMIC cr@p and swap in a W2A and you'll be amazed how much better it runs. I removed mine, went with a $130 CX racing W2A good for 1000hp and a $100 heat exchanger, used a small swirl tank for reservoir and $30 for 50 ft of 3/4" hose and a $200 Davis Craig intercooler pump. I picked up like 2 psi swapping from my 31x12x3 intercooler and with the heat exchanger in front of the rad and trans cooler I'm seeing 160-180 degree temps vs the 190-210 I was seeing with the FMIC and throttle response has been improved as well due to the shorter piping.

I too run a Howe 28x19x3 fabbed radiator with dual 1.25" cores and derale 4000cfm fans plus a 11" spal pusher on the tranny/heat exchanger. A flowkooler high volume water pump and 70/30 rad mix for -10.

end game is to keep stuff infront of the radiator to a minimum.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

they probably rate it at 1000hp but it won't flow that much. Most of the 31x12x3 or 4" thick cores will flow enough for about 600-800hp max. But I would think closer to 600hp the 4" core might be good for 650-700hp.

Just about every chinese intercooler manufacture overrates the flow capabilites. Treadstones are good cheap alternatives and are much better but in the $300 range but they are rated much accurately.

383backinblack

Ya, I think the procharger one is really undersized for 1,000hp as well.

cypris09

iTrader: (1)

Any updates on this? If my car doesnt sell soonish i think i might be heading this way.

battmann

iTrader: (9)

I'll probably have updates in a week or so. I just got the car back to my house. The car was an hour away at my friend's shop after getting painted so not much was getting done. Hope to move things along a little quicker now.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Sorry I missed this. The coil relocation is for 2 reasons.

1.) rear coil on pass side hits the AC box. You can just move that one coil but it leads to the next issue with turbo headers.

2.) Turbo headers run up and over and not down and not down and out like normal headers/manifolds. You can't run stock style wires through the headers to the plugs. They will melt. You can make a mess and run the wires all over the place and leave the coils in the stock location or you can relocate the coils to under the engine or something and route all the wires under and much cleaner. Personally the coil per cylinder and short plug wires are one of the perks of the LS motors. Anything that increases the wire length is a negative in my book. I originally went with cheap front facing turbo headers and couldnt run the wires, then I changed paths and went to supercharger and ran LT headers which required very specific wires to clear the header primaries.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Sweet in for updates!

cypris09

iTrader: (1)

Love the idea of the supercharger and i even talked to the people at torquestorm ( theyre great btw) just not sure if i wanna pony up the extra amount for it .

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Dont want to hijack the thread but as I stated in my build thread. USA made, 12psi with the 3" pulley on my 5.3 and instant boost is a great thing. The guys over at torque storm have been nothing but short of amazing.

slow84ta2

Any Updates on this? I am thinking about this kit and it's currently on sale thru sept 8th 10% off.

battmann

iTrader: (9)

Unfortunately no updates. I'm saving up to get my headers & hot side pipes ceramic coated. I want to get that done before starting to reinstall all this stuff.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Ceramic coating will help a lot with spool and underhood temps... glad your going it.

I actually just picked up a used 5.3 today with 90k. And at the same time a new eBay GT45 showed up at my door got it for a whopping $171 shipped.

i have no idea what to do, turbo my current car or leave the supercharger or keep the turbo and 5.3 and put that in something else. I don't have any other cars so it's just a spare at the moment.

Raunchtastic

I jumped on the kit also. Still piecing some things together. I had a 5.3 running NA, but I spun 3 rod bearings, so I'm putting it back together as a 4.8 and going for 12-15psi. I went with the ON3 78/75 journal bearing, just using the CXRACING hot side and cold side piping with intercooler. I am also running truck intake/FEAD, so I may have to modify the piping to make it work. I am hoping to have my short block together in the next week or two, then the kit should be (mostly) together in the following week or two. T56 car, if that matters.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

Ditto, I ordered the CX hotside as well but got there 76/65 .81AR turbo for the quick spool. Should have full boost by 3k on my cammed and ported 5.3. I'm also running the truck FEAD/intake which it looks like it will clear. More worried about WP pulley and cooling fan clearance honestly. I should have mine mocked up this weekend on my spare motor with truck FEAD. Won't know the cooling fans till I pull everything off. Going to have to fab up connection pipe(its going to be more involved lol) to my catback which doesnt run in the stock location (SFC). Thinking of running a Cutout as well even though I'm sure I wouldnt never really use it. Hoping for high 5s-600rwhp.

I think that 78/75 is going to be a bit laggy no? esp on a 4.8? Should support crazy power tho. like 700rwhp all day at 18psi.

Raunchtastic

The mechanical fan won't clear, but it should get around the water pump no problem. I had it mocked up a few days ago, but no accessories, which wasn't clever on my part. I finally have the 4.8 back together, I just need to get it on the trans and back in the car. I'm also shooting for ~550whp to start, but this turbo will easily make 700+ on a 4.8, and plenty more on a 5.3/6.0 down the line. It likely won't start building boost until 2k or so, likely full boost around 4000/4500. Hopefully the LS9 cam should help it spool a bit better.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

I mocked mine up on a spare 5.3 I have. Everything fit and cleared except the tensioner didn't clear. I put a call in to CX racing and they need me to send the pass header and crossover back as I might have gotten the old design.... so annoying. I think the 76/65 is limited to 700rwhp max but the tiny exhaust will limit power before the compressor.

Guy told me 2500 boost starts and should be full boost by 3k, a 4.8 will spool slightly slower. But the piping on the CX kit is all 3" so its very large for the application. They market 2.5" but its 3" OD piping and 3" vbands.