starting to do bodywork
 

Hey guys, I need some advice, I am planning to get my 85 trans am down to the bare metal because it has alot of different colors of paint on it. and I have heard something should only be painted twice before sanding it down to bare metal. I started sanding the hood, using 60 grit sand paper on a 5" orbital sander and its taking forever, it has taken me about 2 weeks to get 80% of the hood down to bare metal.

anyway I can speed this up?

don't have the money to get her sand blasted

any help will be much appreciated, thanks!

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

I started looking up chemical stripping.

I am seeing mixed opinions about it, is it easy? does it work? does it damage the metal?

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

It smells and will burn your skin :eek:

I have read where some guys use a wire wheel.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

whats a wire wheel? you mean like a wire brush but on the end of a drill? because i have one of those.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

If you're taking it down to bare metal I've found the best method is an angle grinder with a wire wheel. You could also use a sanding disc attachment, but if you go too coarse on the grit you can remove metal as well as paint. I would avoid chemical strippers except for maybe on the very difficult to reach places.

You can use a wire wheel on a drill like you have, but it takes longer compared to an angle grinder due to the slower speed of the drill. Also, if its a cordless drill then forget it. You'll spend more time waiting for the battery to charge than you will removing paint.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

ok, ill try that.

on a side note, what part of PA you in? just curious

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

They are also those plastic wheels for stripping paint but I don't think that will be any faster.
I will go more by the millage than number of repaints. If it is to thick it can chip more easily.
SOP I will start blocking to see how flat it is. If it is good and flat, no cracks or chipping, I usually only go down to factory primer. Then I spray sealer and primer, blocking and sanding before base coats.

Most require body work though. If you go to bare metal be sure to use an etching primer to ensure proper adhesion. Epoxies are popular for these coats. I like to use the 2k urethanes for block sanding before final sealer and base coats.
These are just my preferences but I have never had something lift or bubble. HTH

Oh and I like to use a DA for most sanding duties. Not having air tools must suck I feel for you man!

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

yeah, I think I am going to use a wire wheel on a grinder.

I have a wire wheel for a drill, I tried it, and it works good, but in some places i can feel lines, does this mean I need to sand before I put on the etching primer?

also, can I just put on etching primer from a rattle can for now.

because I am not painting it quite yet, but I decided to start on the body while I am waiting to rewire the car.

also I do have the car in my garage.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

I'm in the southwestern part, about 70 miles east of Pittsburgh. You?

Rattlecan primer will work for now until you can get a good primer on it. It would be best to sand it all off though as the primers mentioned by steve87ta are better quality. Your paint job is only as good as the weakest coat. Primer is not the coat you want to skimp(not that you want to skimp/cheap out on any part of the paint job) on as you have to remove EVERYTHING to fix it as opposed to the clearcoat where you can just rough it up and reshoot it.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

The best way I found to take a car to bare metal was with an air sander (the bigger the better) with around 40 grit paper on it. Once most of the paint is off, switch to 180 on a DA and you should be good. I was able to do a door in 45 minutes using this method.

If you absolutely can't use air tools, I would say your best bet is chemical stripper. I am not too sure if I would use a wire wheel to remove paint. Sure it will take the paint off nice and quick, but it will also leave 36 grit swirl marks in the metal. Also, stay away from sandblasting any body panels. Sandblasters have been known to warp sheet metal from time to time. :2cents:

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

if it leaves marks will they be easy to sand out?

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

You can sand the metal after with a higher grit such as 180 to get the swirl marks out, however it will take a long time without a DA

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

Check my build.....

1. Air craft Remover
2. Wash with soap and water
3. Sand with 80 gritt
4. Epoxy Primer
5. Bondo or body work
6. High build primer
7. Block
8. Epoxy or sealer again
9. Paint

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

well i have an power orbital sander, I just dont have any air tools. or air compressor.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

In your situation you need to chemically strip. Be safe and wear gloves and eye protection. keep it off your skin. Fast and easy. You have multiple layers of paint so it will take multiple applications. Sanding with a orbital will take you forever!!!!!!! if you have a electric grinder/polisher you could hook a 8" pad on with 80 grit and that is quick. You have to be careful not to grind on edges or in same area to long or some panels will warp from heat,especially hoods!!!! After chemical strip use your orbital with 80 grit to finish before you prime. Good luck

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

alright. I think I am going to chemical strip it.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

Buy a gallon of aviation stripper. Make sure you have good ventillation there is alot of vapor.Read application directions. I use a cheap nylon paint brush apply in one direction and dont go back over it. It has to seal itself from air. In other words dont apply like paint and brush it back and forth. apply it let it sit for up to a half hour. Let it do its job. scrape off with scraper. apply another coat. etc. etc. etc.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

they also sell the Aviation Stripper in a spray can..

I completely stripped the exterior of a 71 VW Squareback in a day with that stuff. It is no joke! keep your skin away from that stuff. If you get in on your hands or anything, make sure you have a bucket of water to rinse it off in immediately.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

ok. cool. any tips on how to wash the body panels off with soap and water without making a mess?

ive never done this before

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

Its going to be a mess. Just Rinse with water. water neutralizes it. Lay plastic on the floor. That will help with the mess.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

Do it outside :nod:

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

this may sound crazy but im doing the same Iused aircraft remover and well not so great but something cheaper and effective but only will do a layer at a time is hevy duty oven cleaner. not the fume free tho. let sit for 20 minutes in warm area and for a better result spray then cover with plastic to keep the fumes and chemicals in.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

ok. I think I might try tomarro, but just to make sure, the stripper is safe for the ground effects and bumpers and things like that right?

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

Im about a half hour away from harrisburg

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

My 79 Firebird had a thick paint as well, so I used a scraper with a razor blade and a heat gun. I could remove some big chunk of paint when heated correctly. Don't heat too much or it will burn the paint and it will be a little more difficult to remove.
It doesn't work too well on thin or original paints.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

Keep us posted as I might have to do the same shortly having two coats on the car.

Re: starting to do bodywork
 

i will try to keep posted. for now I did the hood with a spongey thing on the end of a drill since i got the hood form an 86 firebird and it only had one thin layer of paint on it. Im not sure when i will get around to stripping it considering right now there is a thick layer of snow outside and its freezing. so I might wait till after the winter.