radio faceplate change?
 

(sorry i just posted this in the electronis thread not thinking if a mod wants to help fix this this it could be helpful.)

ok so i have a 84 berlinetta with the stock pedistal radio. i realy like the way the stock radio looks with the rest of the car, but of course the right chanel glitches out and the left one sometimes too. i am not sure the radio is salvageable as the base has a lot of corosion in wierd colors. but the faceplate(pod) appears to be fine. what im wondering is can i use the wiring from the pod to control a diferent radios internals. for example using a stock gm(or other?) radio from a diferent car for the internals and my pod for controls, or even beter a well chosen aftermarket radio for the internals?

also if i can get it working what is the best way to run outputs from it to an amp for a sub without using rcas, my amp has built in line converter?

so far ive pulled the internals ive had apart 3 times and resoldered diferent things but it only works for a short time before cutting out again.

Re: radio faceplate change?
 

I'm not sure what kind of corrosion you may have. Can you post a pic?

I was looking into learning more of the circuitry a while back but became distracted. From what I recall it's not a simple thing as say steering wheel controls are to a standard GM head unit. IIRC, the voltage conditioning, amp and output circuitry is in the lower base unit, while the controls, tape and possibly the tuner are in the upper section. If you wanted to go modern and were skilled enough I could see the possibility of taking a newer head unit and adapting it to a gutted Berlinetta housing. You could even do what used to be called a carputer adaptation of the set up. Something like that would adapt rather nicely with the MB/CPU in the lower half and an adapted touchscreen in the upper unit.

A lot of the electronics on a Berlinetta are unique so finding similar components on another GM car to adapt is pretty slim imo. I hope you can find an exception.

I have seen an after-market amps/sub hooked up to a stock Berlinetta stereo and it actually sounded pretty decent. I only test drove the vehicle though so I don't have any details on how it was done. Hope it helps in knowing that it's possible.

Older electronics often suffer from a couple of things. One is cold solder joints, and the other is dried our electrolytic capacitors(the top may be split open on some). Oh, there also could be dried up thermal paste between the output transistors and heat sinks. So if you were to take the time to sit down with it and re-flow the solder on the circuit boards, replace the caps, and clean up and add new thermal paste it may take care of the problem. If not, I would also check the speakers, wiring and connectors.
Right now, as the unit heats up you may notice it cutting out more, or instead you may notice it cutting out when/if you hit a bump. Heat related issues are typically the thermal paste or capacitor, while the physical issues are typically cold solder joints. What happens in the latter is the solder cracks on a microscopic level allowing the circuit to disconnect at random times. This can also be affected by heat but can be singled out by physically bumping it. Re-flowing the solder with new flux melts away the cracked joints restoring proper connections. Old capacitors often make noise or hiss from pressurized gases escaping, and they also change the dynamics of the circuit itself.
Hope that gives you an idea of what's involved.