can someone help me with dialing in my car?
 

I have been struggling with this thing for a while and I need some help. I just can't get it right. I have one of those balancer covers that has the degrees on it. I don't understand how to read it with the timing light on it can anyone help? I got the whole idle mixture thing down but I need help with the timing.

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

Put your timing light on the number 1 plug wire and aim it at the timing tab. When the light flashes it will appear to "freeze" the balancer and you can read your advance by looking at the mark on the balancer next to the zero degree mark on the timing tab.

oh ok so it is whatever number is in line with the "0" timing mark on the timing chain cover? What should it be set at? thanks for the help

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

Somewhere around 8 to 12 degrees or so would probably be good for a start. If you really want to get your timing set up right you can get a distributor recurving kit.

a curve kit for a c/c distributor?

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~mike~86 IROC-Z

sorry ,just read your sig.

i tried in between 8 and 12 and the car ran like crap. RPM's dropped and it wasn't as strong. I turn it near 34 and it revs up and seems better. I get a pop every now and then seems like it may be lean or something. Why does everyone say between 8 and 12 and mine likes around 34.

And this is with the vac advance dissconnected

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

Your timing marks are probably off.

Or, you have the mark tab for one kind of balancer, and some other kind of balancer... there are of course several styles.

Locate #1 TDC by looking in the cylinder through the spark plug hole and watching the piston as you turn the motor by hand, even use a dial indicator if you can find one of the ones that the tip pushes to the side instead of straight in and out; mark the balancer next to the "0" mark on the tab with some white-out. Instant accurately calibrated timing mark.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

Doesn't a high duration cam and a cam with high lift require more timing? than a stock or mild one?

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

A big cam might require more timing only if it's getting a whole lot of fuel in the cylinder. Spark advance is designed so full pressure is reached at TDC. This can only happen if you start burning fuel early. That is why distributors advance in RPM because there is less time to burn fuel. If you have a whole lot of fuel it will take more time to reach Peak pressure. Most of the time abnormal advance is only needed in Rich situations.

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'87 Bird 350 .060 over 700R4 + Lots more

Doesn't a big cam require more fuel because the valve is open longer and the opening is increased because of the lift? Everyone I talk to with a big cam says their car likes it around 30-36 degrees. Mine runs like absolute sh!t at 8-12 degrees.

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

30-36 degrees of total advance maybe, shouldn't be that much inital advance though.

when does total advance happen? At what RPM?

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

For performance all the centifugal advance should be in by about 3000 RPM or so.

Well maybe the machine shop put the balancer on wrong but I really don't see that happening. thnaks for the help

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

Did the machine shop assemble the entire engine? There are different styles of timing mark used on SBC's in different locations. They may have incorrectly assumed which type you had.

Yes they did. Can't you just take the cover and put the mark the says "TDC" on the mark engraved in the balancer?

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

I had the same problem on mine, until I found out that the car had a 350 balance with a 305 timing chain cover, this put it out by a good 20 - 30 degrees and I could never get the timing right. Then I found out they were mismatched and got the proper timing marker and everything was better. This happened after I swapped my 305 out for a 350 and it was installed professionally. So don't assume that the machine shop did the right thing.

Where is your timing tab located now? I think it sounds like you have the one you shoot straight down behind the water pump.

no you have to aim the timing tab under the water pump and just over the power steering pump. I have a Mr. gasket timing tab and a Chevrolet timing chain cover. The machine shop probably just put it on wrong I am going to pull it this weekend and see.

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.