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-   -   fuel boiling, what can i do to prevent this? (https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carburetors/10337-fuel-boiling-what-can.html)

83CrossfireBomb 08-23-2001 02:36 AM

fuel boiling, what can i do to prevent this?
 
driving around today looking for speedo parts my car died right in the middle of traffic, had to push the thing out the road.
i popped the hood and see i was dripping fuel in my primarys. then i looked at the fuel filter and it was bubbling fast, car was off, even when its on it dont bubble as much if at all.

how do i keep this from happening? i was thinking about wrapping my headers and Y-pipe with that heat wrap. would that be enough? what else could i do?

any help is appriciated

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former 305 crossfire fuel injection
350 cubes
hooker headers
750 vac secondary
700r4 with shift kit

sb406camaro86 08-23-2001 10:28 AM

How is your fuel line run? I had this same prob a little while ago turned out that it was b/c the fuel line was run to close to the head so I ran it straight up and across the alt. bracket securing it with tie wraps. If that doesn't work try wraping the line in alumin foil than get some plumbing pipe insulation from the hardware store and wrap it around the fuel line. That should help. It shouldn't be getting hot enough under the hood to boil the fuel unless the line is too close to a direct heat sourceie. heads, exhaust, heater hoses...

Hope this helps.

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406SBC
-DART SPORTSMAN 2 HEADS
-RPM INTAKE
-750 SPEED DEMON MECH SEC. CARB
-HEDMAN HEADERS
-COMP CAM EXtreme energy #284 .507/.510
-1.6 roller rockers
-th350 tranny
-posi rear disc

ERIC'86IROC 08-24-2001 01:26 PM

Does your fuel pump have a return line? Mine doesn't and in hot weather the fuel gets hot. GMPP sells a performance marine mechanical pump with a return line for about $50. This will allow the warm fuel to return to the tank and constantly flow rather than sit in the fuel line under the hood and wait to be burned. I am getting one before next summer. Your could also get an electric pump and regulator for the same effect. Try insulating it first, should be a lot cheaper.

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350 Vortec, forged flat-tops, CompCams XE268, Edlebrock RPM, Holley 3310, TH350 w/Holeshot 2400, 3.23 posi, Heddman shorties, HEI

EDDIETA_ZZ3 08-24-2001 11:37 PM

First Try a Barry Grant 1/2" Phenolic carb spacer. I'm running one under my Q-Jet. You'll have to raise the accelerator and Tv cable bracket to keep it inline with the throttle linkage. Next, run a fuel system similar to the ZZ3 or ZZ4 conversion. I have the conversion on my car but it also worked on my friends 1985 L69 5-speed HO Camaro. Chuck the mechanical fuel pump and run a TBI in-tank fuel pump and replace fuel guage sender assembly that came out of a TBI or TPI car.
Replace your fuel feed and return line with F.I. hose. Run a Holley fuel pressure regulator set at 7 psi, one side going to the carb, the other with a reducer and much smaller hose barb with a hole no larger than 3/16"
(NOT 5/16"). The 5/16" is just for the return hose. Finally Hook up the extra gray wire on your new tank sender assembly to an oil pressure cutoff at the back of the engine block.

This supports my engine very well and it did wonders on my friend's engine which had a problem of bogging and boiling gas. Mechanical fuel pumps just didn't solve the problem nor did inline electric pumps fair better.

Nothing beats an intank fuel pump!
BTW, Once you get over this problem with a, carb, they really do kick ARSE!


[This message has been edited by EDDIETA_ZZ3 (edited August 24, 2001).]


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