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Baffled at no start condition I am having a no start condition, it is a problem with spark and not fuel or compression. What is going on is I am getting no spark from the ignition coil, I verified this by putting a timing light on the coil wire. I have a small cap HEI8 distributor that has a blaster 3 wired in. Everything worked great up until last week, then this issue mysteriously appeared. I originally thought it was humidity, so I dried out the cap, rotor and distributor, no start. So I went ahead and replaced the cap and rotor, still no start. Next I replaced the ignition control module (autozone brand) still no start. The resistance of the blaster 3 coil was ok, but I replaced it anyway, still no start. Next I did an ohm test on the pick up coil leads and it was within spec (760 ohms I believe). Then I checked for voltage at the coil. With the Key off I have a good ground and no 12V positive. with the key on I have 12V + and the ground drops out. With a test light connected to the + while cranking I get a fairly steady light. When I connect the test light to the - the light is on with the key off. When I switch the ignition on the light turns off and stays off even while I am cranking. I did a continuity test from the dual connector on the control module to the coil and the wires are both good. I can't think of what else it could be. Could the new control module be bad too? Something in the distributor? The pick up coil was within spec of resistance, but could it still be that? |
Foiled By The Coil The coil can Ω out good but internally arc with voltage. Hook your test light to the White wire at the coil and ground. Crank the engine. Does the light pulse? ◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙ Happy Racing! ◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙ After The Fourth Barrel Roll I Lost Control Of The Car . |
Re: Baffled at no start condition I believe that I have done that already. I hooked a test light with one end on the negative side of the coil and the other wire to the positive of the battery. With the key off I had the light on. When I turned the key to the on position the light went out. Whe I tried to start the engine the light stayed off, it did not turn on or flash at all. |
Re: Baffled at no start condition Does this mean the problem must be with the pick up or control module? |
Foiled By The Coil The way you’re wording things makes me unsure of what you’re doing. There really is no “negative side of the coil”, even tho one side of the secondary goes to ground. And when you say “and the other wire to the positive of the battery”. That makes it sound like you’re touching the test light to the battery. But you might be trying to say to the “positive” of the coil. When you say “When I turned the key to the on position the light went out.”, well that’s the opposite of what’s supposed to happen. So try again the instructions in post #2. If you get no pulse, the module is not getting a signal to the coil. ◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙ Happy Racing! ◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙ After The Fourth Barrel Roll I Lost Control Of The Car . |
Re: Baffled at no start condition My test light is just a large led with the positive and negative leads. I believe that there is positive and negative side to the coil because it is an mad blaster 3 coil ( old style coil, canister oil cooled )with the two terminals labeled as +/-. So when I say +, I mean the terminal on the blaster coil that has + marked on it. It has been wired with the blaster coil for years with no fits. Does that clear anything or just complicate it more? |
Re: Baffled at no start condition Is the negative marked side actually putting out a positive 12V and I needed to put a lead from the negative of the coil to another negative? |
Re: Baffled at no start condition I found out some additional information. Another test that I will try in the morning is to unplug the pick up coil and put my multi-meter leads in, one to each female connector. Set the meter on AC Voltage. Crank the engine over. If I get a voltage fluctuating between 0.3-1.8 V A/C then the pick up coil is good and that leaves only the ICM as being the faulty piece. |
Foiled By The Coil
Originally Posted by Tibo I have a small cap HEI8 distributor that has a blaster 3 wired in. when trying to start, when you connect an incandescent test light across the coil. Due to the fact you are using a LED version, it might be polarity sensitive, as well as have other complications. ◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙ Happy Racing! ◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙ My Brakes Don’t Work AT ALL When The Car Is In The Air . |
Re: Baffled at no start condition Yes the led is polarity sensitive, I have red and black wires from it to remind me. From what I have read and discovered, I have power to the ignition coil and to the ICM. My led light not flashing on the white/negative wire means I do not have a switching signal from the ICM that would travel along the white connector from the dual plug of the ICM. So her my ICM is bad or the pick up coil is bad. |
Foiled By The Coil Disconnect the 4 terminal connector at the distributor. If you then have spark replace the pickup coil. ◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙ Happy Racing! ◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙ My Brakes Don’t Work AT ALL When The Car Is In The Air . |
Re: Baffled at no start condition I went ahead and replaced the distributor with an MSD distributor. I installed it but I believe my cap was turned too much as it did not start, I wasn't able to turn it and try starting it again as that's when the battery died. I believe it was the pick up coil, after the new distributor was in I had a pulse off of the white wire from the dizzy finally! I also verified with the timing light that I had spark in the coil wire and wire for cylinder 1. I'll recharge the battery and post more later. |
Re: Baffled at no start condition I installed the distributor and found correct top dead center by turning the engine by hand until the exhaust and then intake open and closed. Matched the rotor position in relation to the wire terminals and it started right up. It was a pick up coil problem. |
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