ACC, fog lights, and power windows issues
 

Allight, so....

I just worked on my interior. I replaced the power window motors, power window switches, and added a double din radio.

Now that the dust has settled...

On the power windows.... I installed NOS (or reproduction?) black switches from an earlier bird. (I got the switches from Hawk's.) For the most part, they work. The switches will sometimes stick in the down or in the up position. I'm assuming this problem with go away as the plastic breaks in. Also, yesterday, the right window was working fine, but the left window stopped working. It was stuck until I restarted the car. Today, the right window would not work (but the left window did), until I restarted the car. Is this an issue caused by the switches needing to break in? Or, is there another gremlin I need to hunt down?

Also, my fog lights do not work. The switch lights up when I press it. However, the lights will not come on. Any idea as to what could be broken?

Finally, my ACC fuse keeps blowing. As a result, I've lost my power antenna, horn, and power trunk popper. (At least, I think the trunk popper is tied to the ACC fuse.) I heard this is often caused by the cigarette lighter power socket going bad. With the ACC fuse blown, when I run a multimeter on the positive and negative terminals of the cigarette lighter (without unplugging it from the rest of the car), it tells me its shorted out. Does this mean that the cigarette lighter itself is the cause of the short? Or, because the cigarette lighter is still plugged into the rest of the car, could I be detecting a short elsewhere? I'd rather not tear apart the center console if I don't have to.

Where can I buy a replacement cigarette lighter power port?

Thanks for the help guys!
Bill

Re: ACC, fog lights, and power windows issues
 

The bulbs that light up my gear indicator on the center console (PRNODD12) and the glovebox storage compartment in my center console are also not working.

Re: ACC, fog lights, and power windows issues
 

Easiest way to see what it effects is to replace the fuse and see what happens

Check the power block under the driver kick panel where the wiring goes to for the accessories. I assume you used the stock wiring to wire the windows?

I know the windows , lock , hatch and a few other things plug into there. Process of elimination is your friend at this point to find the issue

Stick Shift
 

Re: ACC, fog lights, and power windows issues
 

In some cases it is the window regulator that is the real issue in smooth operation. They often need done along with the motor.

Take the fog lights out and check where the ground wires hook up to the fog light body. Check for loose or corroded connections. Also have you looked at the condition of the fog light bulbs?

Re: ACC, fog lights, and power windows issues
 

Thanks for your help guys. I replaced the fuse and it burned out. Yes, I used the stock wiring for the windows.

Where do I apply the contact cleaner with lubricant to the switches? I dont want it to dork up the plastic.

Where does the purple wire from the fog light relay go in and out of the firewall? Driver's side? Passenger side?

Finally, where do the fog lights ground?

Thanks again for your help!
Bill

Ground Found
 

Re: Ground Found
 

Going to look at the fog light wiring now. What kind of cleaner/lubricant do you reccomend that is paint and plastic safe? All I found in the auto parts store was quick disconnect contact cleaner. Good stuff, but doesn't lubricate.

Thanks!
Bill

Ground Found
 

Re: ACC, fog lights, and power windows issues
 

The contact cleaner looks like it can only be used on the bottom of the switch. That's where the blade connectors are. I dont want to spray WD-40 on the surface of the switches, because I don't want that feeling on my fingers. I picked up some silicone spray today. I figure that might work better. I hope the silicone doesn't gum up the switches though.

Re: ACC, fog lights, and power windows issues
 

Update:

Some of this has been resolved. The fog lights are still not operable.

However, I found the cause of the short in my ACC fuse. My cigarette lighter power port (not the cigarette lighter itself, I don't have one of those) is shorted out. After I unplugged it, the fuse stopped blowing and the operation of my map lights (the lights on the underside of my rearview mirror), the glove box light, and my horn were restored. When I reconnect my radio, I assume my power antenna will start working again.

I am not sure if it was on the same circut, but the bulb that lights up the PRNODD12 indicator for my automatic transmission did not work along with the horn, glovebox light, etc. It turns out the bulb was blown. I replaced it with an LED from superbrightLEDS.com, and it works!

Also, I figured out the issue with my sticking power window switches. (However, I am not sure if this is also the issue that is causing me to need to restart the car to get them to work sometimes.) I had my center console refinished in black interior paint to remove the "Tron" pattern. The paint adhered to the inside edges of the holes for the power window switches. This made the holes narrower. The left/right pressure from the smaller holes is causing the switches to stick in the down and up positions. I am going to have the sides of the holes slightly sanded to give the switches more "breathing room."

Unfortunately, in the process of trying to repair the switches, I sprayed the bottom of the switches with Quick Disconnect Contact Cleaner (that is supposedly plastic safe) and the top (moving part) of the switches with silicone (in an attempt to lubricate them). I'm not sure if it was the contact cleaner or the silicone (my money is on the silicone), but it etched/clouded the plastic. BAM! Almost brand-new $60 Hawk's switches SCREWED UP.

However, I am thankful to the LORD that I was able to resolve most of my problems.

Right now the GTA is in the shop for a surging at idle. Apparently, the engine is also only operating in "open loop" and won't go into "closed loop." The surge only happens after the engine is warmed up. The mechanic just replaced the valve seals. (This problem existed BEFORE he replaced the valve seals.) He also cleaned the IAC valve and the throttle body. With the engine in "open loop," it is not throwing any codes. Any thoughts?

Thank you for all of your help, and I praise God that this project is moving forward!
Bill