cam selection
 

hey guys,
i need a little help. i found a cam that i want to try out but dont know how its gonna work out for me. i want to use the edl-2201 hydraulic roller in my .40 over 327, vortec heads, 1.6 roller rockers, decked block, flat-tops, and a wc t5. i guess i want to know is this too much cam for my engine. im looking for between 350hp and 400hp for my 88 vert
specs are:
powerband-1500-6500
int/exhaust lift at .50 .539/.548
int/exhaust duration @ .50 234/238
lobe seperation 112 degrees
centerline 107 degrees BTDC 117 degrees BBDC
ANY HELP WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATED THANX IN ADVANCE GUYS

Re: cam selection
 

That would be a good cam, what intake are you panning on using? how about rear end gears? DO you have forged or cast pistons?

If you don't mind the little extra work, and don't mind spending a little less, get a solid flat tappet cam. JMO

Re: cam selection
 

im planning on using the edelbrock rpm air gap for vortec heads, i have some hyper pistons and on the rear end i was thinkin putting some 373's in my BW 9 bolt.

Re: cam selection
 

well, that cam might be a hair to big. You might need a little more CR to take advantage of that cam. What is your current CR? what does that cam say for intake valve closing point (abdc)?

Re: cam selection
 

i hope its not too big, i really want to try it out.the engine is being built now.the block is being decked to 0. vortec heads are being milled down to 59cc(max) from 64cc. my machinist said after being completed that it would be right around 10.5:1 or maybe 10.6:1. he said he doesnt wanna go any higher because of tadays gas not being as good as it used to be. do you have any recommendations for a hydraulic roller that would work well with my app? and to answer your question 117 degrees

Re: cam selection
 

Yeah, that should work good, but it will idle a little rough. As long as the connecting rods are up to the challenge, the you should get some good power. Desktop dyno has you at about 420HP@ 6000, and 410TQ@ 5000. That is with a good exhaust, do you have headers? are you going to be using a stock y-pipe?

Re: cam selection
 

my machinist said my rods should be good up to 400 or 450 as long as im not full time racing it, which i wont be cuz i can't afford to rebuild it again for something stupid. no headers yet. gotta find some that will fit the vortec heads, but im not worried about that yet. no stock y pipe here, tryin to get all the power i can get. not sure if i wanna go with spintech mufflers or magnaflow though, hard to decide. hey sleeper what is your setup if you dont mind me asking?

Re: cam selection
 

I hope your machinist caught that those heads are only good to rougly a .460 lift before they run into problems....Valve guide seal area has to be milled down and you have to run a different spring. I recommend getting the matching springs from edelbrock for that cam

Re: cam selection
 

if you use but the beehive spring kit, it ups your lift to around .550. therefore no milling will be required.

Re: cam selection
 

i have a 327 .030 over, gm 462 heads, solid cam, powerband 4200-7200. 256/264@ .050, .545/.563 lift, 105 lobe sep. angle, headers, dual 2.5 exhaust, magnaflow mufflers.

i don't know a lot about vortecs, but could you get valves that are .100 longer and springs that are good for that lift? Im not sure, but does that cam need single or dual springs?

Re: cam selection
 

pretty wild setup you got.bet it sounds pretty mean too. if ive read everything right then it only requires single springs, but imnot sure about the valves

Re: cam selection
 

I may be wrong here... I hope if i am, someone corrects me.

But I've been down this road with vortecs before. My understanding is that the valve guide itself is too tall and hits the retainer on the valve at high lift. If it was just an issue of coil bind, people would just always put beehives in their vortecs and move along with thier lives, but the valve guide is physically in the way.

This was my understanding after specifically asking that question a while back.

Re: cam selection
 

He is correct, you can simply toss in a set of beehive springs and retainers and be good till .550" life with no machining. If you plan of running more than this or already going to have the heads in the shop anyways you might as well clearance the heads for a better traditional spring. I'd also highly recommend tapping those heads for screw in studs and guide plates.

You do understand that this is a "retro-fit" roller, meaning expensive retrofit roller lifters and cam button. The full kit (EDL-22015) is $625.

(BTW, it's "0.040" over, not ".40".)