Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

So I have found a set of Hooker 2055s with the Y-pipe for a little over 400.00 shipped, and decided to do my first major job on my Iroc (Well, major to me lol). So far all it has is the by-passed TB, Flowmaster Cat-Back with a high flow cat and the Hawks Ram Air kit (Along with K&Ns)

So far, I have purchased the following components based upon the threads I have read here...

555-32057 PREM EXH WRAP 2"X 50' BLK X2 (https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/32057/10002/-1)

111-0276S-4 COPPER CORE SHORT PLUG(4) x2 (https://www.jegs.com/i/Accel-Spark-P...76S-4/10002/-1)

110-4048 S/S WIRE 8MM GM HEI x1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/Accel/110/4048/10002/-1) <----- This may have been the wrong part? But also should fit an SBC and has 90deg boots.

720-7402G ALUM EXH SBC ROUND x1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/7402G/10002/-1)

969-4025 HEADER BOLTS 3/8-16X3/4" x1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969/4025/10002/-1)

I also have a some stainless zip ties coming for the Wrap.

I took out the entire AC system (save the evap and cond) last night and replaced the compressor with a roller for now (I am an HVAC Tech by trade, so for me, this is the easiest thing to remove to make room... plus it leaks like a sieve and I want to put new seals, new compressor as mine is shot and a fresh charge of R-12) as I think I should be good for room to slide these in? Hopefully?

My Current Plan of Attack is to first wrap everything nice and neatly, then once it is ready to be installed I will disconnect the current Y-pipe and get all the bolts I can from the bottom (Car will be on stands), then remove whatever it is this thing...
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...9be274e4c2.jpg
(Sample Picture not my car)
...is. Then get the rest of the bolts and emissions stuff disconnected to pull them out. The reverse the process for putting it all back in.

A big question I have is... Do I need spark plug wire sleeves if I am already wrapping my headers? It seems they would already be insulated either way with the wrap, but I want to do this right so if I need them.. I need them.

Anyways, any help from a header veteran will be awesome!

After this I will move to rebuilding the rear end with a new ring and Pinion (3.42) and that will be it for this winter!

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Get some metal composition gaskets and Stage 8 fasteners, you will not regret it.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

You have it mostly covered, get remflex gaskets for sealing at heads, these will never burn and have alot of crush so they will not leak. starter shield if not on your list already.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Why wrap the headers?

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Wrap is great. But if the material is thin, it could accelerate rusting. *could*

I prefer everything wrapped, but I also use the thickest materials I can possibly find.

Some tips? Not sure how mechanically inclined you are, so here are general rules for parts:
1. For torque start low, and work from the middle outwards in proper sequence of tightening.
2. Don't fully tighten ANYTHING down until EVERYTHING has been at least started (threads) that includes collectors/exhaust/hangers/etc...
3. use anti seize on the hardware for exhaust system to make it go on smooth
4. make sure everything is SUPER CLEAN especially threads
maybe I think of more later

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

From what I've heard, removing stock manifolds is a pretty bad time. the bolts have locking tabs folded over that you'll need to bend away from the head of the bolt before being able to loosen them. exhaust manifold bolts are prone to breaking off in the head as well. If I was to do the job right now, those would be the two things that I'd be concerned with

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Oh god I completely forgot about the old bolts.

Rusty head exhaust studs/bolts are the worst part about used V8 engines.
If yours seem like they might break,
it would be a good idea to pre-soak them a day or two in advance.

Use either some kinda spray on ("PB blaster or w/e) Or use acetone/ATF mixture (I've heard that works well)

you DONT want to break a bolt off in the head... that will seriously ruin your day

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Well, good news, I tested a couple random bolts on the manifold and, while they were on there tight, I was able to get them to budge with a little force. I am a pretty good sized old boy though. I am going to hit them with some penetrating oil over the next week or so before I start, I'll probably fire up the engine each time I do it as well hoping for some thermal expansion in the head before the oil soaked bolt.

Fingers crossed.

I have a feeling that this mill was rebuilt at some point.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Probably the best header gasket going. Check the size. As an example:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...make/chevrolet

X2

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

IS that way better than the gasket I already got? The Aluminum Mr. Gasket? Is it worth it to just get the damn things and return the Ones I bought?

Day 1 progress...

I got the plumbing for the Smog Pump removed for better access, got the 4 bolts on the Passenger side header already loose, and all 6 on the drivers side. I think I may need to get under the car to the the two on the passenger side rear. They took some muscle but I didn't need a cheater bar or anything to get them loose. One of them already was pretty loose. I also got my new Creeper in the mail and assembled that.


Seems to be built well and it's pretty comfy. It also turns into a shop seat.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

All good advice, thanks!

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

They are far and away the best header and collector gaskets I've used. Even if, for whatever reason you lose a bolt, they don't leak.
As for the Al Mr G, my only experience with them was on the collector side of things and they were ok. But one use only I found whereas the Remflex are reusable. At least I've reused them without any drama.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

So far so good, I got the car up on jacks, I will need to swap out the whole exhaust to 3" (Currently 2.5"). It has an aftermarket unit but it's welded so I may have to take a sawzall to it... which is gunna suck lol.


I got the Bolts on the Y-Pipe flanges off (Fought me a little, but they sat overnight in PB so they gave up after a couple twists), got the rear exhaust manifold bolts out, all manifold bolts are just hand tight now, the only thing that is fighting me is the dipstick bolt (of all things) seems to want to twist the whole oil tube when I try and loosen it. For now I got it soaking in PB Blaster and will try it again later today.

Any recommendations on a 3" Cat and exhaust?

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

All great advice and tips given. You have got the hardest part about done.
I have the same Flowmaster system and only had a slight clearence issue going over the panhard bar in the rear. I also have different headers (I made them, shorty style) . The toughest part of the install was on the passenger side because of the heater/ac covers. Made things a bit tight. But not impossable. Your CEL is gonna coe on because you not going to be able to usethe AI.R.system unless you re-use the air tubes lnto the new headers. Did not catch your state but most dont require testing over 25 years old. Your gonna love the sound. Not too loud until you get on it. Then it roars!!!👍

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Welp, that is what I was told when I bought the car lol. But once I got my fat *** under there it looks like a "KUSTOM 2.5". Arrrg... back to the drawing board.

Yeah, I verified that I don't have the flow master lol. So now I need to find a new one and install it after I get the y-pipe in.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Thanks, I'll order them next payday!

I have the Drivers side out, and am a bolt away from getting the passenger side out.

So... Next question is... should I just go ahead and replace all the sensors while I have access to them? I feel I maybe should.

Thoughts?

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

I got my Flowmaster kit from ebat. Cost less than $300 about 3 years ago. And it has held up very well! I dont know what your run ing for a fuel system so if injected l second the 3 wire oxygen senser. Does allow a faster transition into closed loop.
Also, do you still got emission test to pass? If no, you dont need a cat.converter.
If you sgop around there some good deals out there for your equipment.
Just FYI, l put together my whole car for about $8000. That includes a total body/ chassis resto with aWheeler 383 that l finessed, aTKO 600, Zexel/Torsen diff.carrier with 373 gears.
Nowl dont abuse the car constantly but she goes to the local street venue 1-2 times a month. I do not recommmend street racing for anybody. Gotta be safe. With that said,there is a nice, flat 1 mile 4 lane road here tha does not have any access in the racing strip. Nobody can pull in front of you.
I am gonna follow this thread for a little while. Bst of luck and enjoy!

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

I don;t have an emmisions inspection here in Valencia County, NM. I have thought about just plugging my airtubes by-passing the Airpump, and running a straight pipe...

That said...
1) It is a federal requirement to have that equipment if I am driving on the road. Which as I license holder, I did give my word I would obey the laws to the best of my ability.
2) It does make my emissions cleaner.. even if I would technically "pass" without it.
3) My car is fun to drive, even bone stock. I am not looking to beat anyone in a race, just improve the sound it makes, and give it a little more kick.

My plan is to insulate my headers with wrap, (And I will also wrap the 02 Sensor as well to keep it warm), SO I think that should keep it hot enough to work.. (Based on a little napkin Math), if not I will go to the three wire model (Although I may do that anyway as it looks simple enough, thought I doubt I would use a plug and would probably just solder and shrink wrap the conductors).

Right now, I think the plan is to finish this project this winter. Maybe to the rear end ring and pinion to a 3.42. Next Winter I will do breaks (Probably Corvette Breaks off of something a bit newer) and some 17" Iroc Rims from Hawks so that they will fit. After that, Some Coil Overs (May do this early as my front struts are starting to get a bit noisy). Then the Tranny and either a slap shifter (if auto) or a Manual (This is the one I am not sure about yet).

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Im a bit late to the party, but I went with soft copper gakets on mine. The aluminum stuff blew out all the time and these ones are the only ones that have held up for me,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-Oval-Po...e/131533011118
As far as the fasteners, I'd use allen head bolts with a ball hex socket. Matched with a pnumatic air ratchet I can have EVERY (and i mean every) bolt out in under 30 seconds for both sides. I will never use regular bolts again - locking or not. Best simple mod I think I've ever done on the car to be honest with you.
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-pc-3...set-67882.html
You'll thank me later.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Better late than never! LOL

For $20 I just went ahead and ordered the Coppers and see how they work. As far the the bolts, would it make a difference if I only have handtools? I would think that whether I do these with an Allen or a Socket that the net effect would be the same. as far as how long it takes to bolt up. But again, I have never done this and if you are saying it's still worth it, I'll look for a set.

Also, I had to cut the flange that holds the dipstick as I could not get two wrenches on the stud and the stud came loos from the head before the bolt (Which made it so the stem was going to bend if I tried to spin it off... tightest ****ing nut on the whole damn project so far...). You guys got any advice for shoring that up once I get everything installed?

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Youll be ok with a regular ratchet. I was just saying i can do it in under 30 seconds with a pneumatic one. Got a picture?

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Got a bunch, I will take some in a minute. First things first though....

HOLEEE CRAAAPPPP am I glad I am doing this... SO, I got my passenger side manifold out (HORRAY! Kinda a Bitch... but it feels good man...) and all I had to do was unplug the fan T-Stat and rear plug wire, pull it forward and then rock it back and POW... popped right out!

************(I am sure that the removal of the AC components helped lol)***********

But you know.. because they (plugs) were SO EASY to get to I went ahead and pulled my first one...

It came out by hand... BY HAND. Like I got the socket on there NS It felt loose so I started to spin it with my fingers and it came right out. It was also gapped at .025 (Sticker says .035). Good grief, man I bet you this beast is going to purr like a kitten when I get her dialed in the RIGHT way. I have not checked the other ones yet but lemme just say...

I am so glad that you guys are around with your beautiful 3rd gens and feedback on this thread, gave me the strength to start wrenching again! And you know what? I love it!

Anyhow, what did you want pics of? My engine bay without a manifold in sight? The Bolts I plan on using? All of it?

Seriously I am feeling super pumped and happy this is going together!

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Pictures are always good. They help in numerous ways to us "veterens" of a few busted knuckles on here. The stage 8 fasteners are great but can be very tricky to use. I am using regular header bolts with the hex head. Hold pretty good and stay tight mostly. Anytime I work under the hood I check them just in case. In the old days we did not have the copper gaskets ans from the natural movement of heating/cooling and road vibrations they would work loose. Seamed like no matter how often you tightened them they came loose and the gaskets would blow out from the header flange working through the asbestoes gasket..

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Oh that reminds me. The exhaust system needs support. It shouldn't hang on the engine, so to speak.

This is the main cause of blown gaskets. Think of a looong lever the length of your car- yeah like 10 feet or whatever. 1 pound of force on the end of that lever puts 1 times 10 pounds of force on the other end.

SO if your exhaust system weighs, I dont know, 40lbs, it could put like 400lbs of force on the engine's exhaust manifolds. yeah that will blow gaskets for sure.

So the objective is: support the system properly. Don't connect everything until you are sure the heavy parts are supported properly.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

I love this. Very good point, sir.

"Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world."
-Archimedes

Currently there is no movement in the Y-pipe. so however it is supported now should work. The full 2.5" Exhaust is welded and will have to go. I did buy a Gearwrench Exhaust Tube Cutter however, and will start chopping it up when I get from working in Chi-Town.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...5d4b880e66.jpg
And so it begins!
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...c65fc6cf1e.jpg
The Bible, actually came WITH the car.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...b97e8c365b.jpg
My First Mod, a Cold Air Intake from Hawks, I did the by-pass while I was in there... should be goof for like... 40 horse. ;-)

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...c1dc92b2f7.jpg
The Big 5.7
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...f7768146b3.jpg
Drivers (aka "Easy") side, thinking about hitting the thermometer probe while I am in there
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...6d619e7223.jpg
Passenger side, I went ahead and swapped the Fan Switch while I was in there.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...414ca908da.jpg
I cut the Air tubes because they were just in the way. I bought Smog Legal parts so these are never going to need to go back in.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...45a6c3fd55.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...92d308d6ef.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...33c5be384f.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...fd2e23a80b.jpg
Cool Little Engine Plaque
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...277206fc09.jpg
Going to swap this out too, but check out them feets...

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Also, what did you guys do yto secure your oil dipstick? And the next question is.. does sit just pop right out of the sump once it's just hanging there?

And where the hell do I find a new one? Cause I had to cut the old one to get the bracket out.

Also, will I need a collector gasket? My guess is yes.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

The way those heads looks all crusty, I would be tempted to wire wheel them. Stuff the holes with towels and shine them up with an electric wire wheel is possible.

Dipstick huh? The crankcase speech. You want the crankcase (all crankcases) sealed up pretty tight. There are usually only two holes in and out. During vacuum situations the pcv valve flows towards the intake manifold. Air flows in through a different hole to replace what the intake pulls through the pcv valve. Its so important that these 'holes' are very free from obstruction. If the fresh air inlet hole gets clogged the intake manifold will pull the crankcase down to intake manifold vacuum (12-18" Hg) and that will suck oil seals into the engine (like the front and rear main for example) which will create massive oil leaks of course. Also I would change the PCV valve if you have not, they tend to leak and get crusty. and they are very cheap.

The direction of flow changes at WOT, the pcv valve shuts and blow-by gasses escape through that fresh air hole. SO it becomes equally important at WOT when the engine produces maximum blow-by that it is flowing freely, otherwise pressure will push out oil seals. Usually on non-forced induction engines however the pressure is slight and doesn't push an oil seal out completely; however it will push oil out of every orifice and seal. Everytime you run the motor hard a little more oil gets pushed out from every seal; the oil comes out only slowly so by the time you notice the little leaks everywhere each spot is also coated with air debris and more than just oil (it turns to black crusty/dusty goop that sticks) So it is very important again that you have this system free-flowing, both directions, both holes.

during vacuum situations (one more thing to mention) the vacuum in the crankcase is slight, usually 1-3" Hg, or rather it SHOULD be around that. The way to tell is to put a gauge on the engine, but nobody ever does that (I do for FI engines because I am sick I guess) anyways; the point is, the vacuum in the crankcase is/should be SET MANUALLY (or by the factory), meaning that if the free-air hole is TOO free flowing, there will never be a vacuum in the crankcase if that makes sense. SO the factory often provides some kind of built-in restrictor, it might be in the valve cover or in the tube somewhere that leads to the air filter. Or it could even be the air filter tube itself. I mention all of this because you recently did some work to the intake air path, and that is where all of this occurs; What you want is 2-3" Hg in the crankcase at idle/cruise to provide vacuum inside the crankcase so that it can help keep the oil inside the engine (remember those oil seals are not perfect even brand new, oil still works its way out) This also provides increased ring seal (reduces blow by) so it is very important "advanced" topic. I have more literature if you want but basically it goes hand in hand with the dipstick oil seal since that is essentially another " way in and out " of the crankcase, in other words if the dip stick is leaking air, the vacuum in the crankcase will suffer, as if you had too much free-flow from the fresh air tube that connects the crankcase to the air filter tube. Which by the way should be intact, never remove that tube or disturb it, don't ever put little filters on the engine "breathers" if you want the engine to stay healthy without enacting some form of PCV system for both WOT and part throttle.

The ideal way to set the pcv system up is by pressure test. Fill the intake air path with air pressure ("boost pressure") to make sure nothing leaks air there. This will also assist with engine behavior (it will run best with no leaks). then, do the same thing to the crankcase in a separate test, but only use a couple psi. Where the intake manifold can support 10-20psi the crankcase can only support 2-3psi before you risk pushing something out (in stock engines). Big inch built blower motors often have special "extra" seals that allow more pressure and more vacuum, and typically 'dry sump' is used for even more vacuum compatibility along with a belt driven vacuum pump, to put this into perspective, the vacuum in those engines's crankcase's adds around 5% horsepower for those setups (around 50-100HP!)

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

The Lokar has a nice small bracket that holds the tube to the engine. Also, the lokar is flexable and the stick locks into the tube so it doesnt push out or come out. Ifyour tube is good except for the mounting tab you could weld on a new tab sutable for your needs.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

I read that sentence wrong. Disregaurd that comment. You should be able to twist and worm that dipstick tube out. Just be warned, its a huge pain in the *** to get it back in if you do take it out. The tube itself goes like 5" into the pan, i ended up shortening mine bu like 2-3" because i couldnt get it back in the pan one day.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

The thing I dont like about lokar (flexible style) dip sticks is that, if they ever bend over, the tube will crush and be almost unusable.
At least in my experience.

How this happens? Well I was putting an engine into the car and installed one of those dipsticks (transmission) and it sort of flopped over. Thats when it bent.

And from that moment it never worked right, the dipstick wouldnt slide nice anymore. I had to twist and turn and try and try and try to get the dipstick in and out.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Sweet, so I ordered the new Flexible Stick, got the plugs swapped, wire wheeled the heads to smooth out the gasket surfaces, got new wires in, got the headers and will start wrapping this weekend, probably replacing the starter (Because I may as well) then I will cut out the old exhaust system and start on that. I am hoping to have the headers in this week. Can wait to hear it on straight headers lol. I'll drive it like that AT LEAST once.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Nice progress! Now the original starter is HUGE and this is the time to replace it. I got one from ebay for an LT1 Corvette. Alot smaller and lighter and has plenty of power for starter. I had one from XS that was junk after a year. Paid $200for it and the one for the LT1 was around $75-80. It is a GM starter, so it bolts perfectly. And a shield fits good over it very well.But your wrapping the headers so probably wont need the heat shield.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Damnit... lol

I just now insulated it and put it back in. Is this mini starter you are talking about a direct replacement?

As far as progress I ordered the Magnaflow Units from Summit and JUST finished pulling out the old welded 2.5" exhaust. Next up... header wrapping!

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

The first time I wrapped manifolds it didn't go so well.

In fact it was so poorly done the company DEI sent me a whole new roll to do it over again.

I think for starters the wrap needs to be very tight, and doing it "by hand" wasn't tight enough. Pretty sure you need to tie one of the wrap to something solid and then "wrap" the header against the force of that object pulling.
2. the ends of the wrap seem to unravel themselves the more you fool with it. So get the 'frizzy' end wrapped up tightly as fast as possible
3. Stainless locking ties seem to be used to hold the wrap in place, and on the final wrap around, fold the end over so the frizzies are all nestled under the tie strap.

Im not a pro at it so take this as a novice recommendation

Oh yeah one more thing. I did it in doors and when I was finished i was not only super itchy but there were little frizzys all over the floor.
I suppose I would recommend doing this somewhere out doors, and wear looooong gloves. I used regular gloves but it wasn't enough, I itched all the way up my arms.
And ONE more thing lol, I remember at some point being under the car and having some of it fall into my mouth. MAN that sucked. Just a warning if you get under the wrap or just in general- use eye and mouth protection. IMO wear a mask.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Well, I bought this starter wrap for my starter...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...BoCjooQAvD_BwE
... And iy wrapped the starter fairly completely. I think this along with the actual wrap on the headers should be fine.

Also, I got a wild hair up my *** and wrapped the passenger side header! I also slid it down in place which took about 20 mins. I had to pull the Stud that holds the AC Delete shiv in place put once I did that she went right in!

I also put my new Dipstick in (And it is showing that it is half full when the old OEM showed it to be close to the top. Any thoughts? do these Flexible Sticks need to be marked with a new "full line"?).

Now I just need to get the gasket in place (I think will go with my Aluminum Mr. Gasket set first) tighten it down, land and organize the wires in their looms. Do the same on the Driver Side, then mount up the Y-Pipe!

Once that is in I should be good to install the new 3" Magnaflow!

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...30ab7a351f.jpg
Not bad for a first timer!
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...4034d4e028.jpg
And she is IN PLACE!

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

In answer to the mini starter or original equipment replacement, it is an original replacement from a LT1 corvette. It is high torque and alot smaller diameter than the original camaro starter. I sis have a 'mini starter' but that went south after a year. The one l using now l got on ebay from rare electrical for less than $100.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

And it was a new unit, not a rebuilt one.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Dude.. as I try and put these in I see what you mean. The angles are a god damn mess, especially on the 4th bolt and the one in the back. I ordered a set of Mr. Gasket Allen head bolts and will pick up some Allen sockets of varying lengths this week...

Good god, trying to get this one face at a time is for the birds. I can see how those Allen wrench heads are the way to go. I do have the passenger gasket in place though so the bolt change should be pretty quick.


Once these new bolts are in I should have this squared away to the Y-Pipe this week and have everything under the hood done. Then it's just putting the New Cat and Exhaust in.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

I use these on ALL of my SBC header installs. They have small hex heads so I can get a box end wrench on every one every time

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-1110

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Welp.. I ended up using a few of the Hexheads and a few of the 3/8th jobbies. Some worked better than others in some places... since I had both WTH! lol

I have the headers and Y-pipe In, now I need to lower the car back down a bit so I can get the plug wires on and the all the emissions **** up top hooked up... after that I will probably run it through the Y-Pipe and let it heat up... then try and tighten the bolts again.

I will try and post a video of it.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Welp, I got the headers and Y pipe in and just about everything buttoned up enough to run it. It turned over.... thundered to life...

And...

Sprayed Coolant all over the place from a cracked Heater Control Valve...


It was VERY LOUD for a couple of seconds! haha lol I will pick up a new Heater Control Valve tomorrow.

What do I use to attach the New Catalytic Converter to the Y-pipe? Is there a specific clamp?

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

A picture would be helpfull. Most replacement cats are straight pipe like how the pipe fits into a muffler. I welded my whole system just because I didnt/ dont like how the saddle clamps look.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

I think I got it figured out. I found an 3"ID---->3"OD exhaust Strap. I think it will be perfect. Will post pics when I got it in.

Re: Gunna do my first ever headers! Any Advice?
 

Ok, so I ran it with just the y-pipe to cook off the headers and run it through it's first heat cycle. It sounded like a B-29 lol

Tonight I started running my Magnaflow Exhaust I got a solid catalytic converter hanger (had to drill some extra holes in it but it worked out great) and ran into an issue with hanging the muffler of all things...

So as you guys know the last guy had 2.5" Exhaust welded in at some local pipe shop... well it looks like said shop took out the original OEM hanger and replaced them with a single threaded bolt (on each side) welded into place. Does anyone have any images of how their Magnaflow Muffler is hung? Did anyone have to use any non-oem methods to hang theirs?

Also, how much room do I have to play with as far as the piping? Like can I pull it it a half inch or so to make the pipes fit better and then clamp them into their final position?


Hanger:
Y-Pipe to Catalytic Clamp: