Salvaging Door Jamb Decals I'm getting aggressive with my project car's driver's door. I'm getting more concerned about bumping into the tire placard and info placard in the driver's door jamb. Has anyone had any luck removing the decals and returning them to a car after fresh paint? It's not so much that it tells me anything I don't already know, as much as it's pertinent to getting a car licensed and titled in Kansas. Under certain circumstances such as changing a title from off-highway status back to a standard title, or titling a car for the first time in the state, the car has to be inspected by a law enforcement officer to protect against stolen vehicles being titled through the state. Anyway, they look for more than one VIN number during the inspection. Since most of the other accessible VIN numbers, like the SPID are already missing, I'd like to somehow preserve the original decals through the repaint. I've got a sneaking suspicion that if I try to peel them off, they'll be destroyed in the process. Ideas? |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals Good news, all original body panels should have vin on a decal affixed. You can get reproductions of the door jamb decals now from ECS. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals Not in most years. By 1991 they'd stopped putting them on all the panels. Pretty sure they were only used 87-89'ish. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals Take pic, send to ECS. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals ECS, talked with them a bit at the show in Chicago a week ago. Pricy stuff but probably worth it. They did a SPID sheet for a friends car. His was missing so he had to build his from a car with the same options so its pretty darn close. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals
Originally Posted by Drew
(Post 6264207)
I'm getting aggressive with my project car's driver's door. I'm getting more concerned about bumping into the tire placard and info placard in the driver's door jamb. Has anyone had any luck removing the decals and returning them to a car after fresh paint? It's not so much that it tells me anything I don't already know, as much as it's pertinent to getting a car licensed and titled in Kansas. Under certain circumstances such as changing a title from off-highway status back to a standard title, or titling a car for the first time in the state, the car has to be inspected by a law enforcement officer to protect against stolen vehicles being titled through the state. Anyway, they look for more than one VIN number during the inspection. Since most of the other accessible VIN numbers, like the SPID are already missing, I'd like to somehow preserve the original decals through the repaint. I've got a sneaking suspicion that if I try to peel them off, they'll be destroyed in the process. Ideas? Unless that paint is really rough or you’re changing colors or something you can’t even tell on mine.. They painted where the door skin wraps around but not in the jam https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...720aae7ec.jpeg Even left behind the license plate where it says “Do Not open trunk with Tonneau Open” He was kind of iffy about leaving the jams but it turned out great.. he painted everywhere in the jams except where the factory decals were. Just in case I took High Res photos of each sticker as well as pics of the whole panel to get an idea of size and placement. I was going to print and laminate new stickers if I had to. I think they make reproductions of all the stickers except anything with the VIN# and the ASC sticker so I was prepared for that.. I was glad he left all the stickers though.. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals I know I've seen the trunk lid caution decal on Ebay. I'm not positive, but I think the ASC decal is reproduced by the Mustang aftermarket for the ASC/Mclaren convertibles. Edit: http://ascmclaren.com/nameplates.htm http://ascmclaren.com/PARTS/specdeacl.jpg http://ascmclaren.com/PARTS/doordecal3.jpg I'm not sure if I can keep from getting overspray or something on the decals. Seems like the repro door jamb stickers I've seen advertised before were expen$$$ive. Not sure I can justify it on the Turkey in question. All good ideas, keep em coming. :thanks: |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals Whatever you do, don't put masking tape over them. I painstakingly masked off mine on my 82 Trans Am even getting the perfect rounded corners with the tape. After the paint dried and we were de-masking, the tape actually pulled some of the decal off and left me with a nice black slash in the middle. I used the lightest tack tape and slowly removed it and it still damaged them. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals
Originally Posted by Drew
(Post 6264300)
I know I've seen the trunk lid caution decal on Ebay. I'm not positive, but I think the ASC decal is reproduced by the Mustang aftermarket for the ASC/Mclaren convertibles. Edit: http://ascmclaren.com/nameplates.htm http://ascmclaren.com/PARTS/specdeacl.jpg http://ascmclaren.com/PARTS/doordecal3.jpg I'm not sure if I can keep from getting overspray or something on the decals. Seems like the repro door jamb stickers I've seen advertised before were expen$$$ive. Not sure I can justify it on the Turkey in question. All good ideas, keep em coming. :thanks: I'm wearing my old glasses today, but even I can see those decals don't come close to being a match. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals
Originally Posted by 88IROCvertZ
(Post 6264279)
I had my guy paint everything in the door jam except where the decals were. Unless that paint is really rough or you’re changing colors or something you can’t even tell on mine.. They painted where the door skin wraps around but not in the jam I agree 100% not to paint the door jambs No way. Just paint the skins and the "wrap around" using the inner edge as the mask line. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals Following with interest. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals
Originally Posted by Big&BadGTA
(Post 6264309)
I agree 100% not to paint the door jambs No way. Just paint the skins and the "wrap around" using the inner edge as the mask line. I was fully prepared to re-create my original decals.. I bet if you got High Res photos, did some photoshop, you could find a print company to print them as weather resistant stickers.. you could measure the sizes and they could probably nail it for much cheaper than the reproductions.. and again, you wouldn’t be able to get those VIN stickers.. I’d document the decals as backup for what ever you decide |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals I need to get ASC decals for my 89 vert. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals I'm not sure how close the ASC/Mclaren decals would match. Both photos are from the Mustang sight, so clearly there are at least two different versions that were used. I seem to remember between 87-92 the decals on thirdgen convertibles changed too. But anyway, it's a free suggestion, if a person were looking, they'd be worth looking into closer. :2cents: If the car were relatively nice, not painting the door jambs would probably be fine. But this isn't a relatively nice car, this is The Creature From The Sewage-Lagoon! Pretty sure all the sealer around the door seams is going to need to come off, and the doors will probably be painted inside and out. Looking at the decals earlier today, I'm not sure they're even worth trying to save. They are very faded. I might try heating them up carefully and pulling at the loose corner. Doesn't seem like I have much to lose. https://i.imgur.com/GpAMd9j.jpg |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals Good luck! Old glue and paper can be tricky.. Didnt realize it was a lagoon car! Must be in decent shape rust wise to deserve a repaint.. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals
Originally Posted by Drew
(Post 6264401)
Looking at the decals earlier today, I'm not sure they're even worth trying to save. They are very faded. I might try heating them up carefully and pulling at the loose corner. Doesn't seem like I have much to lose. https://i.imgur.com/GpAMd9j.jpg |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals This might help? AvE made a "knife" to help remove "Void" stickers from stuff :D |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals
Originally Posted by Big&BadGTA
(Post 6264451)
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Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals Do not believe the “void out” if removed. But also don’t think they ever really go back on like before. They are one-and-done, mostly. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals Yeah, I'm not sure about these. I think the earlier type with the 'windows' and underlying text were more of the "This label will self destruct in... 3... 2... 1..." type than these. I just imagine that as soon as I wave the heat gun at them, or start pulling, the proverbial droppings will hit the oscillating air movement device. They probably come off like the plastic labels on 2 liter bottles... Meaning they just shred in your fingers leaving bits and glue and backing behind. :thumbsup: for the AVE link, and the borken Seal image, I enjoyed the laugh. It's blizzard conditions in Kansas today. Can't see the street in front of the house. I hate winter. :) |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals I'm pretty sure this is the type of labels used for all "security" decals / stickers / labels … at least I know the VIN decals used are … https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...1133902&rt=rud |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals I thought you had to be a collision repair business to purchase these from ECS. Is that not the case anymore? |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals
Originally Posted by indy82z
(Post 6265641)
I thought you had to be a collision repair business to purchase these from ECS. Is that not the case anymore? |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals I know people that have just purchased things from ECS. Was talking to them a couple weeks ago about the body panel VIN decals for my 89. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals Figured I'd report back with results.... https://i.imgur.com/3K9oO1M.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ItfM2Vv.jpg Went ahead and went after them tonight. Low heat from the heat gun, then working under an edge with a #11 X-acto blade. Slowly peeled back, when the adhesive backing started to show it was sticking, I sliced along the label while peeling. Got them off mostly intact, as the pics show, they are tamper resistant. If I had been a bit more patient, the backing wouldn't have separated. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals
Originally Posted by Drew
(Post 6266112)
Figured I'd report back with results.... https://i.imgur.com/3K9oO1M.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ItfM2Vv.jpg Went ahead and went after them tonight. Low heat from the heat gun, then working under an edge with a #11 X-acto blade. Slowly peeled back, when the adhesive backing started to show it was sticking, I sliced along the label while peeling. Got them off mostly intact, as the pics show, they are tamper resistant. If I had been a bit more patient, the backing wouldn't have separated. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals
Originally Posted by Drew
(Post 6266112)
Figured I'd report back with results.... https://i.imgur.com/3K9oO1M.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ItfM2Vv.jpg Went ahead and went after them tonight. Low heat from the heat gun, then working under an edge with a #11 X-acto blade. Slowly peeled back, when the adhesive backing started to show it was sticking, I sliced along the label while peeling. Got them off mostly intact, as the pics show, they are tamper resistant. If I had been a bit more patient, the backing wouldn't have separated. |
Re: Salvaging Door Jamb Decals Longer, or more even... I got near the end and just peeled a little fast and didn't use my knife enough. If you look at the pics, the white lines at an angle are where I sliced between the label and the door to cut the adhesive. Notice that all the places the security backing start are between slice marks? Had I kept slicing, it probably wouldn't have happened. Also, I figured out that once part of the label has been peeled, don't let it slip and stick back down. Don't rub it down after heating either, they seem to stick better after reactivating the glue with heat. I'm happy with the result for this 'no consequences' project car. On something nicer, I'd avoid peeling them if possible. Given how faded they were, and how I plan to strip the sealer from the door skin joints, it's not like I had much to risk. 3M Adhesive remover wiped away all the residue easily. I'd thought about starting the edge and using the 3m to soften the bond, but I was afraid it'd eat the white backing. |
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