1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

First off a big shoutout to the entire TGO community. Lurking like a mofo for months has assisted me in addressing a variety of issues and initiatives big and small. :thanks:

Here's my tale so far: I picked up my ride this last August (now sleeping through winter) and while I only got three months DD'ing, Christ it's fun! Enough torque to blow the doors off most new imports stoplight to stoplight and the fantastic chug chug of Detroit (ok, CA) iron. My whole plan was and remains every year May though October DD then switch back to the ol' Tahoe for winter. Hence I was aiming for something with not too few miles, as I'd just feel guilty running up the odo, and also obv a much better price than a creampuff lol. But also not a high mileage beater neither. Finally as summer was ending and hope seemed lost I found just that, in the 5.7 t-top combo I'd wanted.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...1163d6cfaa.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...fb9a52e95c.jpg

(driver's seat mint but o/s shot)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...3685146d97.png


It was an old man's baby (second owner since late 90s) and all he did was go up the street in his Ontario small town to the grocery store in it. Regular dealer service. 0 mods. Though he did leave it under a tree in his driveway (sap) and I'm not sure if it was outside through winter(!) but no rust so I think the garage. Regardless, at $10K flat CAD ($7700 USD) for 172K km (107K miles) original engine original tranny it wasn't the deal of the century. Luckily the small town dealer was also a pretty good mechanic (full garage) and ended up doing a bunch of stuff as part of the price. One of those things where the more he looked the more it needed, luckily he was a good dude and stuck to our deal. So the first component of the list is how it arrived. The main point of my post is I was looking at my to-do list this morning and I mainly thought fellow fanatics would get a kick out of it. A small word doc on my phone about production while I was still hunting grew into a monster after purchase, lol. You can see the stuff sitting waiting for March/April install and a few items still to be procured. Staying pretty stock other than exhaust..though in a summer or two I can see the bug taking me into cams and suspension etc etc lol


157,981 irocs '85 through '90
44,595 or 28% had GM t-tops
39,006 or 25% had the L98 5.7s '87 through '90


NEW August 2017
Magnaflow 62866 street series catback exhaust 3.5" tips
Spark plugs, cap/rotor
Front shocks (struts)
Belt
Ball joint
Lateral link
Left and right motor mounts
All bulbs interior exterior
Oil change and filter
Brand new tires
..Oil pressure switch
(..Coolant temp sensor is new)
..Fuel pump works fine
Power steering, coolant

MAY 2018
Oil + filter
Rear diff fluid w GM posi additive and new gasket - $300
Transmission fluid top-up and filter- no flush - $200
**Clean or replace loose fuel injector(s)** + new gaskets
Like new..yet +work to access..so 22lb south Bay new anyway?
->**A/C recharge, fix lines..parts**
-> New nose emblem? $65 ORDERED
Window sweeps kit $180
->Cigarette lighter $65
->Reglue passenger door armrest
->Hi-flow Cat (post emissions NOPE) 93441 Magnaflow 3" DELIVERED
->..Hooker 2055 ceramic w Y-pipe 3" ORDERED
+ MDS ignition under engine fireproof
->K&N air filters x2 2008-1? (MAF dirtying?); no AFE blue x2 ORDERED
-> transgo corvette servo ORDERED
->..Sub-frame connectors?
->remove baffles from air box...ram air III?
-> functional louvres? Iroc-x facebook...not producing; trackspec is two blades short
-> Hurst dual/gate, the part$ place ebay..missing items tho?
Fuel relay/all wiring
"Clean" engine/tranny?
Powdercoat engine?
3.42 gears 9bolt.com?
Check fuel filter if changed?

AUDIO
**Power antennae retraction** $250 .. get old one + repair kit?
Discontinued GM 22062580
ORDERED: NDZ billet aluminum black 12"
+ new speakers (incl. sail panels)
+ vintage woofer for amp (MEI audio)

REGLASS
Driver's side mirror, clean both housings, tighten both mounts
New turn signal lights or lenses a-m $170 oem $250
ORDERED oem pair
1 foglight glass cracked $40

New foglight bezels? $90
New foglight assembly? a-m $250 oem $450
(thirdgen ranch)
NO; repainted, fine.

REPAINT:
Delete silver stripe rear + move 5.7L TPI emblem - new one
Move IROC graphics - new ones (DIY) IN TRUNK
Driver's door lock (DIY)
Hood louvres?
Black paint touch-up pen for hood rock chips - better semi-gloss/universal black if even try again
PDR hood acorn bumps

MISC
Right (or both) IROC badge(s)? Keep an eye for right one. Pin vs stick on
Seat latches lock?
T-top rainguards? $120 Or mint correct t-tops?
Repin or change lock cylinders t-tops for key?
Replace ashtray lid/assembly - just spring
If gauges ever go get Dakota Digital VHX
Check/tighten transmission kickdown/ TV cable? Nah
...Upgrade rod bolts? Nah
Car tent? No

FINISHED
Cold start rattling: exhaust bolts? YES; DONE Old cat? Undercarriage shield? ..doubt piston slap
Black wheel nuts - 18" or 19" socket? DONE
**1 side mirror cracked** DONE
1 foglight bulb out - DONE
Loose horn connection (new locker/cancel plastic cam) - DONE
Foam on odo - DONE
TINT 15s doors and hatch - DONE
FIX HEADLINER - DONE
New sun visors - DONE
New license plates bolts - DONE
Backup t-tops and backup bags - DONE
Affix Fischer cup holder with velcro tape DONE
Liquimolly jectron cleaner additive at next empty DONE
5.7L Tuned Port Injection decals DONE
Floor mats DONE

REPAINT:
Back hatch frame (DIY) - DONE
Windshield frame (DIY) - DONE
Fog light bezels (DIY) - DONE
Passenger t-bar component? (DYI) - DONE
Scotch Brite smooth + Satin black model/hobby paint tester + sandpaper + wire brush - DONE
Black paint touch-up pen for hood rock chips - better semi-gloss/universal black if do again

BAD COLD START - FIXED
Check fuel injectors - new $1000 - nah; 22# Bosch IIIs new in car; one leaking tho. Ever flow matched?
Replace fuel relay - no; can hear it? Can see SES light...but oil pressure kicks up as cranking..?? NO - wouldn't start at all w/o relay working
Replace CTS - (no- was new)
Replace oil pressure switch - DONE

JUMPY VOLTAGE - went away
Check connections - DONE
Replace alternator - nah

Of all this stuff needless to say I'm most excited for the 2055s.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...11aebaed4b.png

...anyway thank you TGO and rock on!

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Oh- and I wanted to add one last bit to my tl;dr tale. That July I'd allllmost taken down a red '87 L98 t-top with *less* mileage for a far *better* price than black beauty above. (In US term I got him down to $5250 for a 77000mile car!) But I waffled as during the test drive it shuddered at every stoplight. The guy explained a young kid before him had "dropped in a chip to give it a bit more go". I realize now that removing the POS chip would likely have been an easy fix and the car was pretty damn clean other than that with no other mods or issues...

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...a29675bd35.png


...but it caused me to dither at the time and the car went. Soon after I learned the '88s and '89s got a bump in HP and gave myself a high-five - as my black car was in transit and the deal was done - because I erroneously thought all '89s got 245 (brochure) HP via the dual cat exhaust. I'm feeling good about my higher price higher mileage decision given these performance metrics...but a day or two after the car arrives I learn about RPO codes and crack the center console and check the SPI on black beauty:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...e20eed9087.jpg


"No G92..ok that's fine. Wait- no N10!"
230 brochure HP. An imperceptible difference and the same torque! (Only the later '89s all got N10 IIRC)
I was pretty peeved.

Then I learn about the different rear axle setups.
"GH3.. 2.77! Wtf! The worst one!"

"And how about my cheaper lower mile '87 I passed on? (search)...they all had 3.27!!!":mad:
LOL

The car rocks and the rear belts on my '89 are way better for my daughters' car seats so I calmed on knowing I avoided some PITA retrofit there on the erstwhile '87. I calmed more learning N10 "13% more power" was embellished anyway, and a moot point once you do a full exhaust.

The 2.77 vs 3.27? That still kinda bugs me. Until I upgrade that the family Tahoe at 3.08 stock has a racier rear end then the IROC. Lol!

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Congratulations, nice looking car and it seems you are more than getting your moneys worth enjoying it.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Thanks Irvan. Half the fun besides driving it is touching up all the trim to try to get it back to showroom level. I never knew there was so much to learn about freakin paint lol. *also besides the 2055s a simple but easily procrastinate-able task I need to get on first thing is moving the misplaced IROC-Z decals. The wrong location jumps at me every time I see it. :p

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Welcome to posting SirReveller!

That's a great looking IROC. Glad you are out enjoying it when the weather permits.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Thanks Dave!

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Alrighty- Santa dropped a bunch of stuff of my list. I put it all on a silk screen IROC picture from China ($7! quality?...$7!) to show my 4yr old where it goes.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...4836a3da75.jpg

:chevy:

In particular this

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...5d1c3b2cbe.png

which was buggin' me is checked off.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

nice stuff, hope you have a warm place to install it.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Yeah I'd be fun to figure out how to install myself but a pro shop is doing the hi-flow cat and headers so may as well just toss these in the trunk when it goes.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Not really. If anything, the performance boost on dual cat cars is underrated. :2cents:

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Really...well 230*1.13 is 260 not 245 so perhaps it was, but only in the media that stated 245. At the same rate there's a ton of threads where guys doubt 13% ie 30 more HP. At any rate a modern high-flow cat is superior to either one or two ~30 years old cats.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Gorgeous car! 89 got the warmest cam the old 049 Corvette cam. Probably my favorite year I hated the spoiler change in 91.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

You're assuming that GM's claims and numbers, are directly related to the published numbers. I've yet to see any documentation from GM disclosing exactly how the number was calculated.

You mean there are tons of threads where guys who haven't ever driven a dual-cat car, say it doesn't matter, to make themselves feel better? Are there a ton of threads with actual empirical data? Back to back dyno tests, perhaps? Back to back 1/4 mile times?

If you go back far enough, there are threads with guys swearing by all kinds of medieval performance tweaks. There was a time when a K&N filter, a Tornado intake insert, and magnets around the fuel line were believed to increase power and mileage. Split Fire spark plugs with dual core plug wires. Leaf blower superchargers... Take what you read with a large grain of salt.

Maybe. "high-flow cat" is right there in the same category as Split Fire plugs and Z-Max! Modern cats are remarkably similar to late 80's factory cats. They both have a honeycomb covered in exotic elements that clean the exhaust. Assuming the 30 year old cat isn't overheated, cracked, broken, filled with carbon and soot from contaminants, burned oil, ie abuse; you're probably not going to see a huge difference.

All that aside, I've been around thirdgens since 1995. Dual cats are the one of the very first things I look for on a thirdgen. I've got nearly identically equipped 5.7L cars in the garage right now, the dual cat car would put a serious hurt on the single cat car at a stop light. My project Firebird I'm building now would be considerably easier and less expensive to build with a single cat exhaust. I intend to use dual cats. The published numbers simply don't reflect the real-world difference between with or without dual cats. IMHO, FWIW

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Hey man- it's what I was gunnin for myself! :P *id be a freakin expert on hi-flo vs dual if I had dual.
And yeah the ol' dyno discussion..so many comparative factors. Especially with cars this age.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Thanks D- killer black wheels on your puppy. Goes sick with the red.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

OK sourced the rear axle gear ratio 2.77 --> 3.45 upgrade. I thought I'd add it to this thread on the car since I'll just update about all this stuff until May when the "list is done" but especially in case it helps anyone. There's some helpful stickies and old threads but a few things took quite awhile to uncover.

There's a bunch of threads on what ratio is best for your purposes. That part is easy. So too snagging the equipment, though it is an investment. Got the 3.45 gears and carrier for the BW from here, as many recommended:
http://9bolt.com/gearsets.html

Simple enough. Thought I was done. ..but then uncovered that your speedometer can be materially off. Makes sense.

As Glenn from 9bolt very helpfully explained ( 2.77 -> 3.45 )..

"Yes it is for a posi unit. As for the speedo, the change will be exactly 3.45 / 2.77 = 1.24. So if you were to wanting to drive 100 miles an hour road speed, you would need your speedo to hit 124 mph to do so.

Or similarly, to do 60mph road speed, you speedo would need to be showing 60 * 1.24 = 74.4mph. A fair difference. The good thing is you'll also notice this difference in performance."

And to remedy this you need a certain# teeth driven speedo gear AND certain# teeth drive. Thus, like many before me, I then entered the fun world of "which #teeth x2". Thank JC I eventually found this, the cheat sheet (if you run stock tires)


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...d64a57926f.png

Ebay.. 41 15...a bunch! Great. Done.

But wait..some packs include a new housing!


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...c50021abb8.png


Thankfully a vendor confirmed whether it was required or not:

"I am assuming that you are referring to the gear housing when you say "Sleeve" if so , then yes, in your case you will need to change both. You could reuse the one that you have if you where using a 34-39 tooth driven gear, but because you are going back with a 41 tooth gear you will need the larger housing for the 40-45 gears. A 41 tooth driven gear will not work in your current 34-39 housing. I hope this helps."

So got the *housing* plus 41 15s (and some brackets and **** in case the old ones are worn..came with the pack). And finally then - outside of needing new shims or whatever when the job starts, which Glenn advised could be easily sourced locally - I was done.

*one final issue that also required researching: whether this speedo gear kit is correct or encounters problems if you have cable-driven vs VSS. With '89 that was a quick answer for me but interestingly it doesn't seem to matter - ie you just snag the gear/drive in your appropriate teeth regardless. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong on this- don't wanna spread wrong info.)

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Alright gents, thought I'd throw this out for some insight. Performance-wise goin in April we got delivered or in transit:

aFe filters (remove entire baffles f/ airboxes TBD)
Airfoil
The hi-flo cat and headers to finish off the catback
3.45 gears
Corvette servo
Transgo 2&3
March power & amp
BMR + Alston SFCs
Lower secondary fan switch
TB coolant bypass
..And my shop is all into Scorpion 1.6 rockers which I may just do for the helluvit at the topend. He also swears by a larger TB but my research says no-go here with only bolt-ons esp. given cost.
Stock cam stock heads stock PROM.

Anyway naturally I'm now comparing torque converters. A couple solid old threads reco "yes" vigilante, edge, pro torque, FTI, yank and mostly "no" B&M, TCI, ACC. My question though is 2400 or 2800 stall? Getting used to the 3.45 first would be wise but overall just wanna have it go on with everything else.

Goal: fun street no strip but not chirping the (stock) tires every stoplight unless I mean to.

Thanks!

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Alright a pretty damn conclusive discussion on my question above was had here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...selection.html

Only other thing to note is I found a solid place with a full dyno right between storage outside the city and the pro shop downtown (his dyno kinda sucks). So in a few months I'll post a full chart of bone stock+magna catback and then one with all these mild upgrades.
Should be fun!

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

How do you like the sound of the Magnaflow catback?
Is this the one you used, looks like the one they offer for third gen

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...t/model/camaro

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Yep that's the one. I love it man. I *think* it's basically equivalent to the 17233/4 FlowMaster in quality and sound. Maybe a touch more subdued decibel-wise? Near identical except w two 3.5" tips > 3" on the FMs - and protrudes a touch more I think as well. When I went and reviewed what they coulda done I was stoked as Ida settled on the 16289 MF myself.

..Of course if they'd gone for the full stock hidden outlets w a Walker I'd have been fine with that too. Some members are purists here which I totally get- at the same rate the 3.5" tips fit the backend and look f***in badass(!) imo.

Most importantly they didn't cheap out w alum Gibson or China no-name etc.

...on the flipside of the coin there's that Borla 14888 if one wanted to spend the big bucks and have the blue chip name under their car but TBH the quad look doesn't do it for me, even if they're technically topmost-end construction. On a related note, during research re: my '13 Tahoe last Fall I found the diff between MF/FM vs Borla/Corsa is in the type of stainless steel. You can guess which two have the 409 and which two have the costlier but tougher 304 stainless steels

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...b510135825.png


So if your 3G saw a ridiculous amount of rain or really snow(!) ie salted roads you'd have a better rationale for the spend. I doubt that applies to many though. Thankfully, lol.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Good reading on the converters.

Look forward to the dyno numbers.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Yeah I figure if I "promise" the charts here and get jammed for time and tempted to skip later..I won't! Lol Plus I really wanna see before/after. *i kinda wish the MF catback wasnt on already for this comparison!

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Welcome, from a fellow Ontarian, to TGO and nice ride!

In case you haven't yet, check out SW Ontario Iroc owners on FB. Also, the Camaro Nationals show is in June, maybe see you there.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Thanks man, right backatchya.

MoSport Camaro track day Friday this June? Amazing- I'm there!

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

On the torque converter I saved a ton of $ and many others have using an S10 torque converter. Gives me around 2300 stall which is perfect for a mild or stock street car.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

What are you saying here?

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

So as to have a 100% bone stock dyno run, KCG.

Thanks D: yes I did see some good success around with that. For now (and maybe I'm a bit of a brandwhore but it'll be on for many many summers) I noticed occasionally on ebay some dude backs out of his custo order and the TC gets a pretty good discount slapped on it to get it off the shelf. So with that in mind I got a note in w CircleD, FTI and Yank for anything in the 2500-3k range for a 700r4 that may come up. I can throw it on really as late as May 1 so figure may as well. Not a great chance I'll score but worth it imo. Well see.

Another note of interest is Dana said a triple disc may make a mild N/A car *slower*(!) Additionally CircleD was like 'yeahh. If you want..really for your application just another thing that may break.'. So I dropped that filter from my canvassing.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

oh ok, thanks. I missed that.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Okiedoke a solid discussion on thermo/switch was had here
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...-what-fan.html

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Credit to James C for the graph showing ~1hp/5ft-lbs on the aluminum driveshaft upgrade.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...496796867c.png

That's negligible/possibly-nothing territory but part outta 1LE envy and part b/c it would make a fun bolt on to add to the mix and good timing given headers/hiflo/SFCs/TC all happening under here anyway..

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...d3f74a63b0.png

..I started looking around.

There's a slew of options for serious rides/racers
http://www.colemanracing.com/Drivesh...350-P3853.aspx
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/cama...-1-2-diameter/
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p128...for_32_sp.html
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-790305

Unfortunately with USD:CAD, customs and shipping all stupid money for my application- esp. as I never noticed any rearview mirror shaking on the highway.

..but it turns out an LS1 model is for sale in my town.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...0a8dcc5c93.jpg

I'm told factory dealership replacement on a 2002 camaro ss, 30k miles on it.

Props to drain89 for the intel:
The 12559525 is the 95-97 1LE shaft. It's a 2.75" shaft. [discontinued] The others are 3". The 12564003 was an earlier LS1 shaft. If I remember correctly, there were some that preceded it, but were discontinued. Somewhere in 2001 and thru 2002, the 12564004 replaced it and became the warranty replacement shaft due to better balance. It doesn't vibrate as much at higher speeds like the previous LS1 shafts. People on ebay are notorious for passing off the earlier model shafts. All of the LS1 shafts have a three rivers sticker IIRC. But the 4004 is the one to get. My 2001 WS6 had the 4004, and it never vibrated on my few insane speed runs.


New GM 4004 DS is up there cost-wise with all the other a-m makes
https://www.cagparts.com/oem-parts/g...shaft-12564004
so I'm thinking if I can get this local seller down to max a couple hundred bucks CAD (+$10 gas for a drive across town) go for it.

Only negative reviews I see are some breaks during hard racing circuits- irrelevant to my app. Still negotiating so I thought throw the idea up here before I own it in case I overlooked something.

Thoughts?

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Man this is tasty- turnkey. Well-maintained factory blue.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars...ationFlag=true
Only flaw? He said sayonara to the signature runners.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Well the 4004 alum DS guy didn't even deign to respond to my $150 offer on his $300 ask lol. May do a new Coleman or just push this off to Summer 2019 or beyond it's so minimal.

On a different topic: I was browsing old texts and after waxing poetic about the Magnaflow catback they picked as part of the purchase price I realize they also went with cheapie Monroe on the front shocks (and mounts).

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...3eb5cf1e96.jpg

"All regular service at the Chevy dealer" may mean 90/00s era Bilsteins on the back but likely the vintage factory pair. I'll have a look this April and if they could use replacing *at all* then it's four-new-FeBi all around. Barring that, these Monroes will be getting some use ahead. Too much $ on the other mods to go ripping out brand new gear, even a lousy brand, and the ride seemed fine so far.

*though after some corner-carving at June's Camaro Nationals my tune may change. :)

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Snagged a nice Chevy dealer brochure insert from 1985 for the mancave wall.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...e5ff3eb18c.jpg

It folds out to show the engine options...sweet.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...e405635af6.jpg

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Wrt the Monroes, I'll put this in the "awesome but $orry never" file.
https://www.detroitspeed.com/1982-19...strut-kit.html

Tho if I didn't love that thin stock steering wheel so much I'd def look into theirs.

I also note DSE would seem to prefer Koni yellows > Bilsteins. Interesting.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Awesome but never is right.
I bought a full set of the Monroes too. I know they're not Konis, but they should be perfectly fine for the stockish build I'm doing.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

That's good to hear KC. There's a certain confirmation bias at work whenever a dude reads 50 negative (or positive) opinions on any make and then finally tests it out, imo.

Also, somewhere I saw a guy ordered AC Delco struts and got Monroes so for "staying stock or closest-to" purposes they may have an advantage there.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Very fun reading. A local well-priced SuperRam I wasn't even on the lookout for (there on the right in much shinier condition than mine) has expanded into a whole season 2 build plan. Now seeing where guys errantly go past the cost of an LS crate.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...f25ea2441f.jpg

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Alright gents I fibbed: work this past week meant 0 time for a whole day off for a pickup/pre-build dyno/drop off and my buddy in the industry offered to just ship it down to the race shop anyway.

Anyway I packed up all the **** I’d amassed over seven odd months and dropped it today. Back of the truck looked like I’d robbed a UPS warehouse.

Basically we’re tackling suspension, exhaust, transmission, rear gears and exterior trim. Other than a flippin airfoil and the headers the 5.7 is untouched. The used SuperRam will grace the man cave until next spring where we can get into heads/cam/injectors/ECU and possibly stroke out to a 383.

Little tour of the shop and I can see I picked the right joint.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...244a5a876.jpeg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...479b3b8c3.jpeg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...4334cc32c.jpeg


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...201839977.jpeg

I’ll try to spin by to document some hoist shots.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

sshoureas cut me a good deal on a NOS deck he almost dropped in his GN. Pretty cool new smell that waited 30 years to be fully unboxed.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...dbed12c92.jpeg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...14a3b11b7.jpeg

Looking forward to ditching the cheap early 90s single din CD deck for this proper period correct 1.5 din cassette and one not needing refurbishment at that. (I couldn’t for the life of me find a ux1 that wasn’t already tired AF.)

Drop this in, a couple Zeppelin tapes and good to go!

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Some day, one of the classic radio companies will figure this out and bring one back.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Hopefully! Here’s the old single DIN.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...d22d1f66e.jpeg

It works fine and technically vintage early 90s- black and didn’t stand out too much but in the end just didn’t do it for me. Mansoor Electronics Incorporated lol
https://www.caraudioforumz.com/gener...rand-mei-2021/

I’ll put it up for beer money later if anyone wants it.

*and yes the pin in the ashtray lid is an issue that requires remedy

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Man, I haven't seen a pull out deck in a long time, neat.

Sounds like things are coming together...cool JVC deck

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Thanks BT. Lookin fwd to June 8th!

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

I bought that book when he brought it out. Late, great John, I was a huge fan anything Lingenfelter. Didn't have the cash to do all my dreams, but always could afford the dreams, lol. Great read for sure, John was the professor of power.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

That’s awesome dude. Absolutely.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Well after a shipping mixup my express windows kit arrived from formula1LE. I went with express (one push button) up and down which I was warned meant some bigger modules and oh boy this is not a small rig! It shoould tuck up under the hvac and above the tape deck with the wires running under the shifter to the window buttons. (It’s also supposed to increase your windows’ speed up and down generally, depending on how tired your motors are or greased your regulators.) We’ll see!


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...fa221a3f4.jpeg


*I figure it’ll be nice to just tap when not feeling sociable to hide behind the tints and just tap again when the t-tops are off for full convertible effect.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Well little update. Pro shop got way behind schedule and I’ve missed 1/5th of summer! On the bright side fiiiiiinally movin along with the refresh. (Obv here the new nose emblem and turn signal lenses aren’t done yet.) Couple more weeks!
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...fdfe2dea3.jpeg

Went back and forth with my guy on R12 vs R134 and finally let him have his way. 134 conversion is done. Mostly it was almost bone dry and I didn’t feel like doing a four hour mission to buy some dusty old cans of (alleged) R12 Id ran down. Blew lukewarm all last year so I figure I’ll never really know if I missed out lol. T’s are off most of the time anyway. This shop also does metal polishing so doing the intake would be killer but tick tock. Next year.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Well I’ve had the ‘ROC out a couple weeks now and absolutely lovin’ it. All the paintwork I did before putting it away last year made for a much cleaner ride out of the gate versus what I started with on purchase last summer, not to mention the headliner and tints. This is verrrry nice during those extreme heat warning type days

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...23452bd2e.jpeg

Most recently this weekend I jacked up the audio from the pathetic murmur that was the 4x6 delcos up front (sails being dead and all) and what a world of difference!

Out
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...7535ede89.jpeg

In
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...9605e7b5c.jpeg

Out
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...bc5a7e149.jpeg

In
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...171fe8b64.jpeg

Out
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...6c802fc13.jpeg

In
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...426213eb6.jpeg

In*
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...a38faa76d.jpeg

*this was way cheaper than a custom enclosure, which can definitely look pretty cool, and 8” is fine for classic rock. Pro: you haven’t altered the trunk or annihiliated your storage room + can pull this in one second for max storage for a trip or whatever. Con: so can a stranger : P

+ a hidden bass knob for the sub and USB port for my phone in the center console to keep the stock look in the cabin.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...bc78a2074.jpeg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thi...94b6222c9.jpeg

The guys over in the car audio thread will recognize immediately by the makes this was a deece spend but hardly the best of the best, yet neither entry level eBay gear. “Very good” which was my aim.

The deck? Well the NOS deck I was all psyched about above turned out to have a busted cassette and aux line so the ol’ MEI audio 1993 or thereabouts unit remains! Lol. I suppose the circuitry didn’t last some hot shelf somewhere for some years or maybe someone re-enacted their favourite goal from the 1990 World Cup with it. I don’t really care. The MEI CD player works even for burns and I don’t use Bluetooth or iTunes or any of that either. In fact it’s mostly FM or the engine.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Nice set up, should really kick. I am going with a OE radio with AUX input from JohnInRI to keep the stock look. I need to upgrade speakers next. How did the ones you bought fit?

What all did your guy do for the R134A conversion? Did he swap out orifice, add oil, what? This is something I need to look into more. Looking forward to see your ride in person sometime.

Re: 1989 IROC-Z 5.7L T-Top - to-do list
 

Thanks bow. Yeah I saw his thread - he seems to know his stuff. No clean UX1s the past while though hence I went with that NOS.

They fit great- went with the standard sizes and depths to not have to modify anything. I found playing around on crutchfield.ca using the filters pretty informative given the endless variety of models. Aside from a hi-fi vinyl deal I put together many years ago I’d forgotten or never understood a lot of the jargon!

As for the AC my pro claimed you don’t have to switch the accumulator or condenser: just new seals and the recharge, whereas I’d thought one or both was a must
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...r12-r134a.html

Either way blows plenty cold for me...then again I’d had nearly nada before so probably not the best comparison lol. You still running the R12?

Ditto- lemme know if you ever bring your car through TO.