What are your keys to cutting a good light? R/T!
 

Any secrets out there or advice on how to cut consistent good reaction times..............

I bet practice is a good one!!

Any others...............?

Re: What are your keys to cutting a good light? R/T!
 

You already know the secret. Practice, pratice, practice and some more practice. By the way did I mention to pratice. ;)

When the first yellow comes on, close your eyes, count to three, and just go. Pray for the best. :D

Leave on the last yellow. Practice. All you can do.

Along with seat time goes repeating the same things each time. Make sure staging procedure is same, stage rpm's, front tire pressures, etc. And as much seat time as you can get.

i like that close your eyes and count to 3....im gonna have to try that lol....its all about practice and consistancy...

if u do go wioth you eyes open go when u see the last yellow...it will take you about a second from the time u decide to go untill u actually leave the line....(the time it takes for your mind to process that u wanna leave)

Here is my technique to cutting mid-low .500s (sportsman light):

I usually Stage after the other car. ;)

Come up to the Pre-Stage lights. Wait for the other guy to Pre-Stage (if he hasn't done so). At this point bring up your rpms and/or what ever else you need for your launch.

While holding your rpms steady (extra shift light work wonders here to help you stay at your "stall" rpm), ease off the brakes/clutch just enough to trip the Stage lights. If you have a manual, use your hell to apply the brake so you don't deep stage.

Each light is seperated by .500 of a second, so I will leave just before the third yellow lights up (.450 after the second yellow lights up). The light themselves actually take a while to light up. You can achieve better R/Ts at night. I come close to red lighting.

Of course, your car setup, traction and your self vary from my technique. Use my steps as a guideline, you may need to leave sooner or later than I do. But the best method to cutting great R/T is ... Practice. :D

... of course you know R/T don't mean squat for ETs, only for brackets. :)

After staging, ignore the other lights. Stare at the 3rd yellow, go on it.

thats what i try to do.. :D

Go out & get a hand held practice tree Summitracing has one for $89.95 for just the main tree then an extra $16.95 for the remote button

heres the parts number
ALT-QTREE for the practice tree
& ALT-QTREE-SW for the button.

The practice tree is alright if you leave off a button at the track. I foot braked all year, while my 2 closest friends/comp. had the 2 step and left off the button. I was still better with the practice tree than they were. It's a fun "toy" but unless the button on the game reacts as quickly the button in the vehicle, it'll almost hurt you cause you do practice, practice, practice....but the wrong kinda of practice and that's a bad thing. Everybody's got their own routine for staging, I just barely trip the stage lights. Before my class is called, I get in my zone and watch the tree-not the races-and get the rythmn goin in my head of how the lights come down, I must admit I don't stare at the 3rd yellow, I watchem all, keep my rythmn, and anticipate the 3rd yellow. What'll work for 1 might not work for another, seat time is the best IMO, my system for me is soo good that the track came to a halt in a Gamblers race so tech could rumage through my car and look for a delay box, cause the announcer and the Super Pro guy I put down said Street cars don't cut 5teen lights back to back, of course they were wrong.

"After staging, ignore the other lights. Stare at the 3rd yellow, go on it. "

This is especially good advice when bracket racing and the car in the other lane is leaving before you do. All those lights changing at once can get pretty distracting

Works for bracket racing for me, too... :D

ya man, getting passes down helps alot....the experience counts for quite a bit, provided you know how to do it in the first place.....

but like everyone else said, when that third yellow just barely starts to glow, hammer down

I dont know it help me & my husband's R/t I want from doing .9s+ to doing .6s or even faster on my lights. & MY car is an auto

if you have bad hand/body eye coordination to start with a practice tree will help tune that up a little bit. otherwise you need to do the real thing and concentrate on technique. Also, if your not very good with a stick and your car is manual get some practice....its alot harder to launch a manual car and cut a good light, as there is alot more going on

Like 383backinblack says, if you need help learning how to get the signal from your brain quicker, fine, but there is a long ways from your brain to your foot as opposed to your finger/thumb. I cut incredible lights all season-off the foot-when I played with the practice tree I averaged .500-.508, yes next season I will have a 2 step hooked up and leave off a button, but .500-.508 is too close to diaster for an R/T unless your running in a box class. If nothing else, it's damn fun to play with, I'll say that-try making a drinking game out of it, then you cut some really good lights.
Actually, the people that "stare" at the last light will benefit from the practice tree if they set it up in the staggered, pro-tree mode. That way you have nothing else BUT your R/T to go off of-no luxury of anticipating at all, in regular sportsman mode it's too much like a video game, once you figure out when to let go of the button when the light comes one it's boring to say the least.

As I said after racing 3 yrs I am finally getting my lights down. Because of that practice tree. The races I race are bracket racing & No electonic are allowed.

What class do you run? All three tracks I race at have basically the same class-street/sportsman-depending which track and they have thier own rules like street class, you have to run mufflers, DOT tires aka DOT approved slicks, any dail, trans brake and 2 step allowed. Or Sportsman where you can run open headers, full slicks, any dail, 2 steps and trans brake allowed. At all 3 tracks I race at when they term "no electronics" it is basically saying no delay box, and that's about it. I realize every division/track has they're own rules, but I've never heard of not being able to run a 2 step, you should look into it, once go off a button and you get used to it you'll be better yet, cause by rights you'll react quicker, PLUS with the 2 step your launch rpm is the same EVERY time, which factors into more consistency. I was pretty lucky this year with the NUMEROUS changes throughout the season-3carbs, 2 trannies, 2 convertors, 2 intakes; that the car has always ran the numbers and it usually boiled down to me killing the tree for the win or getting a red eye and loading it back on the trailer. Man, this is gonna be a long winter.

I run what we classifed as car club challange strickly street cars. if you can run it on the street you can run it there. No elects. means Nothing to help your car run better.

Thanks.......
 

Thanks Guys/Gals for all the good tips........

I have a 5 speed, that's why I asked the question in the 1st place. It's tough to be consistent.

Merry Christmas!!

With a manual, a two-step rev limiter is invaluable. You have your normal engine-saving high-RPM rev limiter, plus one that is run off a button and is set for your launch RPM. Hit the button, stage, floor the accelerator, and release the button and clutch at the 3rd yellow (you can also tie the button to your line lock to avoid accidental roll-out - in which case you'd stage, hit the button, etc.).


On a side note, I ran in a club class, similar to the rules cited above. My club won the season points race, and they asked me to say a few words at the awards banquet accepting the trophy. After the normal thanks to the sponsors (and a good word for continuing the class), I advised those who happen to line up next to me in future races: "Wait for the green light, and floor it!" Got a laugh from the "knows-better" crowd...

5kid, I got a chuckle out of the last statement. When we attended the "night races" the open to anything, run what ya brung, and have a chance at $250, alot of the kids that did'nt have a clue were asking questions-most were cocky, but that's besides the point-our female street class racer came down from MN. to one of the races and had one of the "import" drivers ask how to cut a good light or when to take off, her reply was "when the light turns green, count to 3 one-thousand and floor it." It was hard trying to keep our composure until he finally left. I'm not tryin to say we're jerks, cause if people have serious inquires at the track, like you and many others we're more than willing to offer any advise and help, but when these teenies and early 20's come at you with that cocky attitude and my **** don't stink, ya just gotta mess with them. Not to mention they're driving front wheel drives and would never show their face on an actual race day; so ya might as well get in their head a little for a chance at the prize-kinda like Survivor. I made it a point every race to pysche everyone we pitted with out, if I cut a terrible light, in last round of TT I'd always flaunt around tellin them I had a .525 or something-then when they'd race me it'd be in their head to push the tree and alot of times they'd get the red eye. I'm a friendly enough guy, but when there is green backs to be had, I'll do what it takes to get them, even if little white lies are involved.
As far as staging with a stick, I've never done it so I have nothing to offer other than respect for those of you who can keep it competitive by cutting lights, hitting every gear, and running close to the dail. Another buddy of mine races a 69 GTO with the old Saginaw 4 speed, his lights are so so, but man can he get the gears, he usually runs as consistent as the auto guys and that's pretty phenominal, granted he has the Hurst Super Shifter, but damn. He uses no line lock or 2 step, guess he gets lucky when he stages by not having the car move as he brings up the revs.