eaton M112 questions
 

i just got a brand new Lightning M112 off ebay. :D

couple questions...
can a lightning M112 have fuel run thu it without a problem?
anyone have any new mounting ideas that will actually fit?
what does this bypass actually do?



all ideas and suggestions would be great!

Fuel running through them: I don't think so. I seem to remember 83 cross fire TA saying its probably not good for their rotors but I'm not positive.

The Bypass is activated by the actuator which gets a "vacuum" signal from the engine. Under low load its open and venting letting you run NA basically. but when you nail it, it closes down and you are in the boost. I think there is still a hole in the blade though which could be covered.

So how much was it?

If it can fit over a valve cover, I'd do a single M112 over dual M90s....but I'm going turbo now anyway. Next Project!

$500 brand new.

i found a page with all the tech info including the size if that helps... i dont know the exact amount of space over the valve cover though.

this is the tech info straight from eaton
http://automotive.eaton.com/product/...rols/M112.html


im trying to find as much info as i can about this stuff so im not littering the board with a bunch of stupid questions, but its hard to find solid info.. most M112 stuff is full of stupid mustang owners who dont know **** other then it can bolt on to their motor... :(

i did find alot of conficting info about the wet or dry stuff :(
theres a million things like this http://www.fordbarn.com/earlyv8/foru...ages/38289.htm where you get yes answers, but only 2ndhand.

i sent a email asking eaton about it from the contact info given here: http://automotive.eaton.com/product/...s/contact.html but i dont know when i'll hear back from them.

if someone could name a good website or two that also has a board with this info, that would be great.....

im sorry i dont have a good answer for you on the wet/dry thing, but it should not hurt the rotors, 83 crossfireTA mentioned the gas possibly "washing" away the grease in the seals, so you'll have to check on that, if the seals are seperate like the old roots blowers you should be fine. as for the bypass valve im not saying betur4drustang is wrong, because i dont know, but i have always heard that a bypass valve is basically the same thing as a blow off valve (BOV) with the exception that it routes the excess pressure back into the intake stream so you dont loose your boost, where a BOV vents it into the atmosphere making the "psh" noise

ive read ALOT the past few days...

turns out the bypass is a little butterfly inside the blower (in this case its internal )

when the actuator sees a vac, IE, the throttle isnt all the way open, you're crusing down the hwy, ect... it opens.


when its opened, the intake above the blower and the manifold below are open to each other... no boost is created... the engine is basicly NA... in vac... and according to eaton, the blower takes less then .5hp to run too.... ive heard from 1/3hp to "less then a half"... but even if its 3 or 4, its still alot less loss then running the blower normally... and you get great fuel economy.
according to eaton and the EPA, it has zero effect on hwy miliage, and only 1MPG diff in city...
ofcourse, that would all depend on how heavy your right foot is.. :D

The front bearings are sealed, however the rear bearings are simply pressed into the rear of the case and are exposed. Running gas thru with the stock bearings would be a bad idea. Its possible (if someone REALLY wanted too) that the bearing boss could be machined if a suitable sealed type bearing was available. BW