Those who've replaced all their bushings step inside....
 

I'm planning on redoing most of my suspension on my car over spring break and have some questions.

I'm ordering the complete poly bushing kit from spohn. This will be my first time doing major suspension work on a car. Got any tips for me that I should know about? I'm also putting in new springs while I have the chance.

I plan on doing the lower control arms too. A lot of people say to just get new ones but I don't really want to spend the money. Are they just as hard as the front control arms?

I've heard that I need a spring compressor, and I will need some type of press to push in the new bushings? Anyone done this before? was it a PITA?

this is my daily driver, but I can let it be on jackstands for a week. I also have air tools, so I know that will eliminate most of the hassle.

thx for the input

Here is your step by step guide.
 

ebmiller88 has done us all a favor by having pictures of his front end rebuilds to assist anyone who wishes to do theirs also. A search using his username and whatever ur question might be is also very helpful. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/taramiller72/my_photos
- Good luck, Efrain.

Most of the stuff goes together pretty damn easy. The only major problem I had was with putting the springs back in. Even with a spring compressor it was a pain in the a$$. But, I also did not see Ebmiller's site until after the rebuild. He gives a little trick on using the spring compressor. The control arm bushings are easy if you have a press or know someone that has a press. My friend owns a shop, so I just took it over there and pressed them out and pressed new ones in.

Now, are you planning on replacing the ball joints, tie rods, center link, pitman arm while you have everything apart. Also if you need new struts for the front this is the time to do it. I also did a brake job while I was at it, with bearings, pads, rotors. Also, you will need an alignment done after you have done all of this.

thatnks guys, that helped me a lot. I don't have access to a press. Would a big vise do the trick to press the bushings in? Maybe a bottle jack?

I've heard of people using a big punch and a hammer to get the old bushings out. Also heard of using a torch, would that work pretty good?

Also, does anyone have the torque specs for each of the bushings? maybe I should get a chilton's manual....

I drilled some holes in the rubber part of the bushings, and then used a torch to burn them out...I really had those suckers going. I utilized a hacksaw and a Dremel tool to section the shells, and then a hammer and chisel to collapse the shells inward so that I could drive them out.

Pressing in the new ones was easy; I used a ball joint press that I rented from AutoZone. I put a bit of antiseize on them first to help them go in. I also made some fixtures out of angle iron to go between the ends of the control arm so that when the bushings were pressed in they wouldn't collapse.

Shops around here wanted $100 to do the ball joints and bushings....:bs: Did it myself for free. :D

possibly the hardest part will be taking everything apart. if your car is like mine, 140k wisconsin car, it wont be fun. make good friends with pb blaster for several days before you attempt to take everything apart. even with a hd impact gun, one of my lca bolts was siezed in the sleeve of the bushing. i ended up cutting each end off with a dremel and bend the bracket a little bit. ofcourse, i probably could have got it out if i had used a torch, but my father has a thing about using it in the garage. where around the burbs are you, if you need any help with anything lmk

[QUOTE]Originally posted by KagA152
[ if your car is like mine, 140k wisconsin car, it wont be fun. make good friends with pb blaster for several days before you attempt to take everything apart. even with a hd impact gun, one of my lca bolts was siezed in the sleeve of the bushing.

:nod:

[QUOTE]Originally posted by b-man

Quote:

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Originally posted by KagA152
[ if your car is like mine, 140k wisconsin car, it wont be fun. make good friends with pb blaster for several days before you attempt to take everything apart. even with a hd impact gun, one of my lca bolts was siezed in the sleeve of the bushing.

:nod:

---

Si!
89Blue-
Install Tips:
I see you are from Chicago? If so and the car is from Chicago, PB Blaster and Oxy-Acetylene setup will probably be necessary.
Rust does horrible things to fasteners. For me, getting the a-arm off the car took a lot of work. The bolts had expanded (from rust) and could not be driven out. I wound up having to cut the nut and head off each bolt, bend the bushing mounts (attached to car) out a bit and drop the the entire assembly down. Spring removal was cake compared to that.
I have not seen EB's posts on this, but am sure they cover what you need to know.

While they are out:
I would sandblast and paint everything.
I would look into getting access to a press to install the bushings or have some one do it for you.

The LCAs took alot of work also. Just about as much as the front a-arms. I f you have a welder and can "box" them while they are out, that would be good. If not I'd look into getting new ones.

Spring compressor:
Yes, and make sure it is the kind that goes into the center of the spring.

Energy Suspension or Prothane are commonly used bushings. What type of bushings are Spohn's? Is he making them or acting as distributor for someone (ES or Prothane)? Just wondering..I know the parts he manufacturers are, by and large, top notch.
Best of luck and keep us informed of your progress-
S-D

thx a lot guys, you're all a big help.

kagA152, I'm from the schaumburg area.

This is the kit I will be ordering:
http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1366

I'm also getting a set of the Moog OEM IROC springs. I didn't want lowering springs cause my car is too low as it is now and the roads around here aren't the best.

I bought 3 cans of PB blaster already, so I'm set with that. I think I will rent the bushing press and spring compressor from autozone, so hopefully all goes well with that. I've never heard of Oxy-Acetylene, what does it do and what is it?

I think Im going to paint everything (control arms, panhard bar, swaybars) either gloss black or red so it will look nice.

we'll see how it turns out, I might get a strut tower brace after I do all of this. I've also been looking at subframe connectors but I don't know any places around here that would install them yet. I'll keep you all posted and I'll take pics of the install too. Seems like it will be pretty straightforward but I know some things will just be a PITA.

A cutting torch- oxygen and acetylene. aka "the green wrench".
S-D

Would a hand-held propane torch work for getting bolts out, or is the Oxy-Acetylene that much hotter?

An oxy-acetylene torch is going to be your best bet, but if you don't have one and don't want to spend the bucks then get one of the handheld torchs that will burn MAPP gas. MAPP gas will burn hotter than a regular propane torch.

In my case, the torch really didn't help with the disassembly much...the Sawzall was my most useful tool. Neither of my rear LCAs, nor the panhard bar, wanted to come out. Almost all of the bolts either snapped off and/or rusted to the bushing sleeve. I had to cut the old parts out with the reciprocating saw. Be advised that the bolts are hardened and are a real pain to cut through.

Fortunately the fronts didn't give me any trouble.

Where would you get MAPP gas, can you get it at a home depot like propane, or would you need to go to a welding supply store for that one?

I used sockets and a porta band saw to get all my old bushings out and also make sure you get new bolts for everything you take apart most likley all of your original bolts are going to break.

Also use alot of grease on the new bushings if not they will squeek and be prepared for the stiff a$$ ride your going to get.

Go one up on that and order yourself some POR-15.
( http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=301 )
$14.95 will go a looong way ;) . Then you'll never have to deal with rust again.

IIRC, all of the bushing that Spohn uses in their products (besides the Moog front-end rebuild kit) are Prothane.
-Good luck, Efrain.

The only thing I had problems with was taking out and reinstalling the A-arm bushings. Those were the biggest PITA in the world. Me and my dad had to actually get the blow torch to burn out one of the bushings. Then installing them was a nightmare. We destroyed 2 bushings trying to put them in, had to order new ones, and when we took it to a shop to get them to install them, they destroyed 3 of them, AHHHH! But other than that, it was all pretty easy:D

Ordered the stuff sunday night, got a confirmation e-mail but nothing about it getting shipped yet, I'll keep you all posted.

thanks for all the info guys. I got another question. What order did you all do the project in? I wanna do the rear first since it has the most problems.

I was thinking this order:

1. jack up car by the rear frame/ put on jackstands. take tires off.

2. Put jack under differential casing.

3. Here's where I get confused: Do one lower control arm now, or start taking everything apart and out in this order: (shocks, swaybar, panhard bar, then springs (if this is right)) and then do them? Is it better (or possible) to take the springs out with the panhard bar still in? Im thinking it'll be easier with springs out to do the control arms.

4. I heard it's easier to do the torque arm bushing while the rear is dropped. IS this true? If it is I'd do it then, otherwise skip this step. I've never done one before...

5. Once the control arms are done, then its basically bolt everything back up in reverse order which seems simple.


thx for all your help guys :hail:

Yes, your idea of having the jack stands on the frame of the car (I put mine just ahead of the front LCA mount) and using the jack under the diff. for adjustability works (at least it did for me).
I would do one thing at a time. If you take it all apart at once, the rear end will be balacing on the jack for the most part. An added benefit of that approach is that if you begin to run out of time, you have a definite stopping point where the car can safely be driven. I was suprised how much the read end moved around with just one LCA off.
Rear springs and shocks are easy- except for removing the top bolt of each shock. I believe you'll need to dig around in the interior to get to that.
I took my torque arm (ta) completely off and welded braces on it. When I put it back in, I fit the front nose of the ta into the trans mounted bushing and then adjusted the jack to a height that allowed me to line up the bolt holes where it attaches to the diff.
I believe it is pretty much a matter of recalling how you took it apart- in most cases that will allow fairly easy re-assembly. But like anything, there are no gaurantees.
I would imagine there are a ton of searchable threads on this topic.

I just re-read your initial post. It seems you are only doing the rear? If so, I did not have to compress the rear springs. Just let the rear end hang all the way down and the spring should be loose in there. Remember to use tape to hold the rubber "donut" to the top of the springs when re-installing- saves a lot of cursing. I tried using a spray adhesive. That was just.....stupid on my part. Tape is bee's knees.
Best-
S-D

*Update*

I ordered my stuff last sunday night, its now friday. I e-mailed spohn tuesday night and never got one back so I finally called them this morning. I guess they Don't have the springs still and they're *supposed* to have them on monday and will ship everything then. I'm a little disappointed with their service so we'll see what happens..... I was expecting to have everything by today, oh well...

I wouldn't worry. The only time Spohn doesn't get a product to you practically overnight is when they don't have it in stock, so it's probably out of their hands until they get it. They are good guys to work with.

Everything is supposed to be here tomorrow. Im gonna start the project tomorrow night hopefully.