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-   -   Formula sway bars vs spohn sway bars (https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/suspension-chassis/252402-formula-sway-bars-vs.html)

lubranoc 07-27-2004 01:55 PM

Formula sway bars vs spohn sway bars
 
I have some 1992 performance package formula sway bars (36/24 I believe) should I stick with those or is it really worth the $300 to get the chromoly pieces ? Would there be any advantage besides the weight difference ? Does anyone know the actual weight difference ?
Thanks
C

Dewey316 07-27-2004 02:04 PM

i don't know the wieght diffrence.

The spohn bars are a higher rate sway bar. so there will be more roll resistance.

That being said, there is such a thing as too much sway bar. you need the car to be balanced, the suspension has to work as a whole. it isn't always bigger = better.

what springs are you running? any other mods? how is the car now. too much body roll? do you have an understeer or oversteer problem?

lubranoc 07-27-2004 02:20 PM

Bigger not better
 
I am going to use the car for autoX so Whatever combination is going to maximize my drivability and cornering ability is what I would like to go with as far as springs I am going to go with some linear springs, not sure how dropping is going to affect suspesions geometry yet, therefore not sure if I will go with lowering springs or not, whatever will work best, as far as complete suspesion package is what I will go with. Hence why I have started investigating all of these matters.

ShiftyCapone 07-27-2004 10:33 PM

Re: Bigger not better
 

Originally posted by lubranoc
I am going to use the car for autoX so Whatever combination is going to maximize my drivability and cornering ability is what I would like to go with as far as springs I am going to go with some linear springs, not sure how dropping is going to affect suspesions geometry yet, therefore not sure if I will go with lowering springs or not, whatever will work best, as far as complete suspesion package is what I will go with. Hence why I have started investigating all of these matters.
Lowering does affect suspension geometry but it can easily be corrected with a few other parts (adj panhard rod and LCA relocation brackets). The WS6 sway bars are hard top beat. I cannot see going with $240+ sway bars that are probably margonally better. Like Dewey said though, balance is a must. Too stiff and you will be out of control.

lubranoc 07-27-2004 10:36 PM

GOod
 
You guys verified my opinion so I can use my money on some other suspension mods. What do I need to do to adjust my suspension angles after an all around 2 inch drops. is a 2 inch drops all around the ebst ? if not.. what would be ideal ?
Thanks

C

ShiftyCapone 07-27-2004 11:04 PM

Re: GOod
 

Originally posted by lubranoc
You guys verified my opinion so I can use my money on some other suspension mods. What do I need to do to adjust my suspension angles after an all around 2 inch drops. is a 2 inch drops all around the ebst ? if not.. what would be ideal ?
Thanks

C

Well various springs will drop different values. The sportlines and drop zone springs lower 3rd gens the most. Whatever springs you go with you will need an adjustable panhard rod to re-center the rear end along with lower control arm relocation brackets to re-position them in the correct location. The amount you drop depends on your driving habbits, road condition where you live, and tire and wheel size.

lubranoc 07-27-2004 11:43 PM

centering
 
this centering in regards to the rear end.. what exactly is it in reference too... as I understand it the most important things in suspension is balance.. balance between what compoinents ?
Thanks
C

Dewey316 07-27-2004 11:45 PM

The front suspension is where it gets interesting. when you lower, there are several effects in the front. idealiy you would lower via drop-spindles, but no one makes them anymore.

next best thing you can do, is try to compromise. get a bump-steer kit, that will correct the tie-rods, the a-arm angle, is basicly unfixable. your roll right drops very low. not much you can do about this. best thing you can do, is run stiff springs. keep the travel down, this will keep the bad geometry changes to a smaller amount.

now, the front roll height has dropped, but the rear roll height hasn't dropped significatly. you want them be be close to the same. luckily there is a solution here. Unbalanced Engineering makes a PHB relocation kit, that will drop your rear roll height by about 4".

Ok, so your rear roll height changed, that means a spring changes. and shock changes.

ok, i think i am rambling now.

Basicly you want to do what you can, run pretty stiff springs, and good shocks and struts with alot of rebound dampening. then just use the sway bars to fine tune the balanace. i would venture that with most over the counter springs, and factory sway bars, you are still going to have the understeer issues that plague these cars. you would have 2 options here. slightly smaller front bar, or larger rear bar. Price wise, the smaller front is a good option. you could go with a 34mm bar from an IROC.

if you have too much oversteer for your liking, drop in a smaller rear bar.

lubranoc 07-27-2004 11:54 PM

Great
 
That last comment was great. I am starting to understand the importance about rear and front sway bar balance and how these big crooked sticks work. any more comments or similar examples, that would be great
Thanks
C

pasky 07-28-2004 01:20 AM

If possible, try to go for a hollow chrome moly sway bar, saves a lot of weight.


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