Spohn control arms
 

Well, the rain finally let up today and I was able to install my new Spohn tubular control arms. They were easy to install and work great!! Somebody said they might be noisier with poly bushings, but they are actually quieter!! Great road feel too! Firm but not harsh. Works well with the Spohn SFC's. Corners smooth and effortlessly. Damn these cars are fun!

which version did you get? and did you get the relocation brackets also. btw. I returned an edelbrock STB because it had welding slag inside the tubing, very annoying.

nice, i just ordered the spohn control arms and relocation brackets. hope that it will indeed take off atleast .10 off my 60 foot time and get me 1.80's. my car is lowered 1 inch or so with the prokit, and i know that the geometry is way off. i definately noticed a loss of traction. should now get me 13.8's in the 1/4 and i cant wait.

Relocation brackets? Uh oh? Did i need those? I thought the tubular control arms just bolted into the stock mounts?
Thanks for the info about the edelbrock part. I don't know why everybody got so bunched up. Harmonic vibrations that resonate can be very annoying, why take the chance? Unless you want the Santa's sleighbell sound.

Jingle bars Jingle bars...Jingle all the way Oh what fun it is to ride in a Z...Twenty...Eight.

You don't need them. They just reposition the lower mounting point for better geometry if the car is lowered, and alow the rear to plant better, for traction and stuff. What version of the control arm di you get? there are several. just curious.

brackets are said to be able to help non lowered cars too. increases downward force on the rear to keep it planted.

this is true

I just got the fixed tubular ones. Non-adjustable. My car has stock springs and spindles. I'm running a fat 3" exhaust and headers, so I can't see dropping it down much. I scrape the nose as it is.
Good to know I didn't do something wrong. Thanks everybody. I can't get over how quiet and responsive the car is now. I can't wait to see what the panhard bar will do. I also plan on putting dynamat on the floor pan when I replace the carpet. I guess that will quiet it down even more. We'll see.

when i put my springs in and shocks, i put a adjustable hotchis panhard bar in and the rear felt a bit 'tighter'. i dont recall it being a heck of a difference but it was awhile back and the shocks and springs made such a huge difference i probly didnt notice what the panhard bar did.

however, the stock panhard bar is very weakly constructed and thus is flimsy. LOL a good tubular one is alot stiffer. it should make a good difference. for you since your running the stock springs and such.

i have the sphon arms to good stuff but the grease go out quick and they make noise so get a grease bottle from sphon while ur at it.also my car is lowered one in with st springs in wat whole do i put the lca in the rel bracket?last to the bottom or the one above?

KnightWarrior
How did you install the LCAs? Did you raised the whole car, one side at a time. (sorry, but i'm new to tgo and I want to do as much possible myself)
My car has play on the passanger side lca and the panhard is bent from a accident i had 2 years ago. I need to replace everything but I dont want to pay no local shop $50/hr to do this if it can be done easily

pretty easy to do.

Jack the car up

Place jack stands just in front of the body mounting point for the lca's.

Lower car on jack stands while letting the weight or the rear rest on the jack

Take off tires (you dont have to but it does make it easier)

Remove the two bolts holding the lca's on (18mm iirc)

Remove the lca.

CLEAN EVERYTHING THAT THE POLY BUSHING WILL COME IN CONTACT WITH!!!!!

That is the most important step

Lube everything up with the grease suggested by Steve.

Install the LCA.

And do the same for the other side and the pan hard rod is just as easy.

Only thing to watch out for is the bolts tend to rust over time and you cant get them out. Usually end up cutting them out or whatever. To save ya the trouble order the bolt kits too (part # 981 and #983).

Kat

Yeah, what he said. It is super easy. toughest part is getting the old bolts loose. They are super tight and coated with 20 years of corrosion and road grime. Soak them with Liquid wrench first and order new bolts.
Do each side one at a time and don't tighten them all the way down until you get it back down on the ground at ride height.

Thanks for the reply!
I will be also changing the panhard bar. Any tips on how to change that one?
Like I said before t is bent due to a car accident some time ago.

Well, hopefully, it's the bar that's bent and not your car. If it is your car, you may need the assistance of frame and body spcialistists.

what grease do you use for the bushings?

It's special silicone based synthetic grease available from Spohn for fourteen bucks. I think a tube will last many years!

wow, i guess i better get some before i put mine on:D

The “special” silicon grease is actually just “super lube,” you can get it at most hardware stores and home centers.

The more I think about it, the more I wonder why use specifically the silicon stuff? Generally, poly is not damaged or affected by petroleum products which would suggest that most normal chassis and/or bearing grease would be fine.

None of these products are anywhere near as thick/sticky as the ES grease, but if you’re worried about it “sticking around” you could very easily use a marine rated chassis/bearing grease that could be used in the rest of the joints and goodies on the car.

How about the pink synthetic MOBIL 1 Chassis grease? Would that be OK? I use that on all the chassis zerks in the front end.

Thats what I use usually.

Kat

If you can't find Superlube locally it's cheaper to buy direct than through Spohn. $10.50 vs. $14.00. Here's a link, Superlube Grease

I just noticed that all the smilies are back!:burnout: