PA racing tubular kmember and spohn A arms
 

How the hell do you make these work.. Im sitting here lookin at my car that will not go any lower cause the spohn a-arm is compressed against the k-member... im also using jamex springs with a 1/2 coil taken out

Here is a pic of where its hitting:

http://www.306motorclub.com/dj/why.jpg

this is my fully compressed wheel height.. i think it should get a little lower then it is now..

http://www.306motorclub.com/dj/why2.jpg

and finally the fully compressed ground height..

http://www.306motorclub.com/dj/why3.jpg

this is with no motor in the car.. i just took it off the jacks and it dropped right onto the a-arms.. is there anything i could do.. i bought these a-arms cause i was informed the stock ones would do this and then the *** damn tubular ones do the same thing


i cant hack this car **** anymore.. i spend thousands of dollars on parts that i know should work and they just dont.. or maybe im just retarded

id talk to spohn first, then pa. does pa claim the k member will work with other aftermarket arms?

one dude said it would work as he's done it.. maybe his car's jacked up like a monster truck becuase here is a shot of it with stock a-arms

absolutely perfect height right off the bumpstops

http://www.306motorclub.com/dj/gta1.jpg

I have a couple emails into the places

I think you are right tho and only pa arms will work the the pa k-member as they are thinner and would allow for more compression.. i just wish I would have went this route instead of springing for the spohn ones which were 100 more and supposed to be much better :rolleyes:

i'm sure they will work great once their k-member comes out that that will probably have more clearance in that area

too bad it wouldnt have worked cause it was a really good looking setup

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ight=%2Bmember

should send lo tec a pm, or maybe hell see this

What kind of motor mounts is the k-member setup for?

Mine sits fine...wheel lip to ground measurement is 26" with 255/50/16's. When I first put it together and before I spaced the front springs, it was 25 1/2" to the wheel lip.

Edit:

I also mocked up one side of the front end without the spring and jacked the wheel up until it hit the fender liner. The picture in the linked post is of that...it would just about rub on the side though, not like yours is hitting.

Just wait till you try to turn...
the steering linkage will hit the main cross bar on both sides and the pass motor mount...

I wasted a bunch of time and money with those people


The P A is a very poorly designed part ... as you are finding out

There is no steering linkage interference on my setup. As you turn the wheel, the linkage moves away from the k-member (towards the front of the car), not towards it. I'm not sure how it will hit the motor mount as it sits a couple inches above the steering linkage.

The pic above shows LS1 mounts didn't see that before....

on a regular old sbc mount it hits everywhere trust me..

maybe they have fixed the problem but I dought it

and no my car has never been crashed..

with the exception of the rear LCAs, i havent installed a spohn part yet that didnt need to be touched with a grinder... lol..


anyhoo, looking at your pics, im confused.... is it the upper cross bar that the motor mount is on that is hitting???

the usual spot A arms hit is on the crossbar that goes under the oil pan... it almost seems like that motor mount bar is too low....??




btw, you're going to have to grind your LS1 motor mounts to fit that Kmember..
i did a write up about it here:
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...hlight=kmember

it details a 4thgen Kmember swap, however, the motor mount problem shown will also effect you.

just a heads up.

It also looks to me like the upper cross bar is to low. However, he won't be grinding anything because the parts have been sold:

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=283677

Maybe we will get another post in a couple of months from the new owner:D

I bought the a-arms but not the k-member. I'm planning on going with the hawks and bruce told me that they will work with his k-member.

Justin

thats because, if you sit them side by side, the Hawks Kmember looks identical to the PA kmember that looks identical to the ProFab kmember............................

So are you telling me that they wont work? I know his k-member looks close but its not completly the same.

honestly, on HIS Kmember, i dont see how ANY a-arms would work... it looks like his crossbrace is way too low... :confused:


i cant say 100% if it will or wont work.


the problem with the stockers on the tubular Kmember is that it doesnt fit into the space for the front bolt.... it hits the crossmember.

when he asked me if it cleared, i looked at that part of the spohn arm, and since it looked like the PA one in that area, i said it looks like it'll clear...

but with his kmember, i dont see how ANY a arm could go up high enough......

will it work with yours? honestly i donno.. i think his kmember is fugged up.

id measure twice before going ahead.....

i wonder what the BMR one will look like...

my k-member looks exactly the same in the areas that its hitting that i've seen in every other PA one i've ever seen.. you can see in the third pic where its resting on the bar... it was hitting on the on cross bar that holds the engine mounts..

i dont know why they didnt make that higher and then swoop it down into the main bar under the oil pan..

Ace, if you look at the picture of the one on my car in the link halfway up the page, this is with the suspension jacked up to the point where the wheel is hitting the inner fender liner. You can see the clearance between the A-arm and the cross bar. It's not even close to hitting.

I went back and looked at a picture of the k-member on PA's site and then looked at your pictures. The cross bar is definitely lower. Maybe it has something to do with the LS1 mount.

oh your pic is of it with the wheel on and everything..

the basic frame should be the same, they just change the mounts.. is yours the older version? i think there was a couple versions made.. maybe they screwed up on the new ones :(

I bolted up the arm and knuckle without the spring, put the wheel on and jacked it up until the wheel hit the plastic fender liner. Then I pulled the wheel off and snapped the picture. I was worried about clearance at full suspension compression. This is a brand new k-member I ordered in january. I'm pretty sure they put the cross-bar too low on yours, again something to do with the LS1 mount.

You can hardly see where the steering linkage hits :rolleyes:

http://www.team3rdgen.com/modules.ph...view_photo.php

only the dr side a arm rubs the main cross bar and other crap that was wrong with it ... to tired to type anymore