Question about mounting battery in trunk...
 

When you mount the battery in the trunk area. Do you have to buy a distribution block or osmething for the front? To connect the battery to everything else. For the people that did this mounting what did you do? If you have any pictures it would help alot to. Thanks.

Do you have to? No. But in your case with a car that has some distribution needs it might not be a bad idea.

I ran 2/O (yeah I know its a little overkill) from the battery to a master disconnect switch. Then from the switch to the starter and converted to a one wire set-up on the altenator and used 4 guage for that. (The switch is to kill high amperage devices for saftey regulations in the Sanctioned racing organizations I deal with, and it makes a great anti theft device). I use the master disconnect switch as a kinda distribution block in my application, so it worked out for me.

You can pick up 4,2,0 guage wire at a local welding supply store for cheap. The best thing about this wire is that it is the most flexible, durable and cheapest cable you can get. BUT the best thing about this cable is that it is 'Fine strand Oxygen Free Copper'. For those of you that dont know, its is the least resistive type cable made, the electrical and stereo guys know know this. But you can buy this stuff for $1.65 a foot. Say that about Monster Cable or Stinger products. The best thing I like about this cable is that you can bend 2/O into less than a 5" circle. Now thats flexible!

If you go to the track, you have to runa an approved type container, meaning vented. You can buy these at local speed shops or even Craigen, Checker, Pep-Boys, NAPA or whatever. It just has to be mounted to the chassis in some fashion.

you know.. i must be special ..
 

because, if I understand correctly.. to be really NHRA legal, you need to also cut off the alternator hot when the master kill switch is open (and I think that takes a relay). but, the one time my positive termal came loose, the motor died.. so effectively, the alternator is not in the loop unless the battery completes the circuit. But, since I have a wire going from my starter (effectively direct from the battery in the trunk) to the junction block on the radiator support, it should still be hot if the motor is running (because, there is a wire between the starter terminal and the alternator).


Ps, as a side note.. for those of you considering the trunk mount bat.. you will need to feed the alternator a positive. Or the bat will not charge.

Pics are on my page at www.koolmeister.com

Miles

The master kill switch I mentioned has seperate alternator lugs for it to interupt. So it meets NHRA, SCCA and SCTA rules.

As for the alternator charge wire, I ran a 4 guage from the starter to the Alt charge lug. The energised Alt wire goes to the master disco switch.

I ran my alternator wire straight to the battery in the trunk because its important. Also I ran the large battery wire to the engine compartment from trunk. The end connector for the battery wire is a post connector which has the bolt you can tighten. I just put all my components that need live power on the bolt and tightened it. Works fine