EGR valve question.
 

My SES light is on(not constant, just once every day, usually at night on my way home from work), ive trouble shooted it to be an EGR code(had it read) and ive diagnoised it down to the EGR valve, i have vacume going into the solinoid, and i have vacume at the EGR valve off idle. so im going to pull the egr and clean it and test it to see if the diaphram is capable of holding vacume. now my question is, is there any other EGR valves that car replace it other than what is listed at work(Advanced Auto Parts) the valve runs like $40-50 and if there is a valve for another vehicle that would work, that would be cheaper id like to save some cash.

well i had it off, i squeesed the diaphram and put my thumb over the vacume port and let go of the diaphram and it would return to its original spot but didnt pull on my thumb any, so i ordered in a new EGR valve, just looking to see if everyone aggrees that the EGR valve is shot?

Anyone?

someone has to have some info

ANYONE!!!!!!

NO!






....Well not for a few more hours, now, anyway.

just to add to it i check the passages and they arnt clogged. Had the engine running and pushed the diaphram to open the valve and the engine bogged down. Anyone that has any info please post.

63 Views and no one knows anything what so ever?

Re: EGR valve question.
 

And the answer is no (again). Most of those valves are designed to have a washer placed between the seat and the body to change the size of the orifice, lowering stocking overhead and production costs as well as allegedly lowering the consumer's price. It already is a valve for another vehicle in essence... as well as yours.

What you may want to do is try searching (if it feels like working) for Trickster's troubleshooting chart, or read through Bernard's Tech Article on code 32 and see if you pick up anythign there.

As for the that is supposed to happen when you do that. Have you gotten a repair manual for your car yet?

yes ive read them, and everything else has checked out except the valve really. i put the new valve on today, hoping it solves the problem. does seem to idle better now.

I've been having the same problem. Eveything in the EGR sys. has been replaced and the code (32) keeps comming back!
I have an idea though, Would an O2 sensor that is going bad, effect the fuel ratio bad enough to cause cyl. temps to rise to a point that the EGR valve won't bring the temp down far enough and cause the code 32 ? The engine does smell rich most of the time and I'm sure it has been abused while installed by wide open throttle autocross racing, a bad fuel pump, and extream temp. variations from 5* to 95*. I just had to replace the plugs and two were pretty well black carboned up! I've had another problem too. sometimes when sitting at a light, it will just die for no apparent reason but always starts right back up. The #10 replacement washer for the EGR was installed and the passages
were free from blockage. I'm thinking about selling or trading it soon but I don't want to till it's code free! :thumbsup:

may be the wrong type.
Sounds like a negative back pressure type. Diaphram valve stem is thin, and solid.
The EGR valve on my 88' is a positive back pressure valve which can't be tested by maually moving the diaphram. This valve's stem is thicker because it's hollow.