Please help me, my car runs like crap
 

heres the deal. I just replaced my fuel pump. No the car is having a problem starting. It starts and all but this is what it does. Say i go out to start it if its cold. The car will almost start right up. Then i will have to try again with a litte bit of gas and it starts right up. Then if i put it in gear it dies out and stalls. And also if the car is warmed up. It will not start it you shut it off with out holding the gas to the floor while starting. Now I know this isn't normal for the ol TPI so what do you guys think could be the problem.
Jason
ps. If i keep cranking like i have to i am going to kill my starter. Please help

oh yeah, also once you put it in gear and take off,(by way of neutral dropping car from 3000 rpms) and get going down the road the car runs fine. I don't get it.

Probably start with checking the TPS voltage, and then setting the IAC and min idle speed, the reset TPS (if you adjust min idle) again.

All info can be found in the Tech Section at the main page.

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Another thing, check the ECM for codes, info is also in the Tech Section

[This message has been edited by 8Mike9 (edited March 07, 2001).]

Even though you just replaced the fuel pump just recheck the pressure to make sure it is good. If it is good then do as 8Mike9 said. Then I would try to time it.
If you still have problems then and no codes are being thrown then I would try replacing the ignition control module in the distributor.
Hope it helps.

Don't mean to be a pain in the a**, but I don't think the ignition module would have anything to do with it. I could be wrong though! From experience and speaking other techs, usually if the module is having any trouble it will not give any spark at all. Don't have anything else to add. Sorry.

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'91 Z-28 5.7, SLP 1 3/4 headers, 4 inch Mufflex/Flowmaster cat back, gutted cats, Edelbrock intake, 8.5mm Jacob wires, MSD Blaster coil, S&W subframe setup, Jacob Pro Street Ignition, complete Kenwood system.

yeah to my knowledge, the module in the distributor either works or it don't. one or the other, i have never heard of one causing a weak or intermittent spark. either it sparks or it don't.

Sorry guys but I had a bad ignition control module and it would start but the idle was not too bad but got worse as it heated up! Cold it was great but as it got warm it sucked. The module is an electronics package and electronics do go paritially bad, sometimes. I know I worked in the electronics field for over 20 years from home computers to NASA satellites and seen my fare share of leaky diodes and transitors.
The fact that he is having problems not starting when it is warm or hot would lead me to believe it my be the ignition module. Plus it is less than $20, local parts store, and if it never was changed it wouldn't hurt.
Some people when timing the car they change the gas filter you should change the module once every 15,000 miles too, IMHO, because of the heat by that area and electronics being susceptable to problems from heat.
Like I said I had a bad one but the car did run, you guys should have seen the idle vary between 400rpms to 900rpms and it would almost stall in gear in the summer. I replaced it and know it idles smooth at 750rpms, cause of the cam ZZ9. I still have other problems but with 130,000 miles on it I GUESS SO.

88_TAOD, I'm not saying it IS BAD ON YOUR CAR but it could be it is just a guess like the rest of the guys.

Good Luck! https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/wink.gif

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89 IROC 350 Auto
Custom DUAL Exhaust
Edelbrock Performer 6085 Aluminum Heads
ZZ9 Cam
TPIS Level 5 Chip
14.01 @ 97.0mph with 2.77's gears and a bad ignition control module!
And Free mods.

If it's only running for a few seconds and then dying it could also be the oil pressure switch or the oil pump, since the oil pressure switch is what completes the fuel pump circuit, I would check to make sure I had continuity. The car starts, burns the fuel that was primed into the lines when the key was turned to "ON" and then shuts off... a friend of mine had that problem and it was his oil pressure switch. Just a thought.

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Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, MSD 6AL, Aluminum Driveshaft, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Modified MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil

15.556 @ 86.65mph, Nov 10, 2000.... I know it sucks.. but it will get better!

http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/

The first thing to check on any EFI car with bad running engine is the fuel pressure. Then check for error codes and go from there.




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'87 L98 TPI IROCZ, AFR190 heads, 3.70 gears, ZZ9 cam, 2400 Art Carr TC, SLP 1 3/4" headers, SLP cat-back, no cat, no AC, no MAF screens, Accel manifold base & SuperRam, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, MSD ext coil & distributor, trans cooler, 52mm TB with airfoil, TB coolant bypass, AFPR(58psi), K&N filters, Hotchkis lowering springs, my custom chip, Lay Ind. ram air kit, SS Brakes 1LE upgrade 12" rotors dual piston calipers, 265/45R16 Kumho V700 tires.
ET 13.39sec @ 107.21mph
'90 Eagle Talon AWD, no rust thru 9 winters
'99 Camaro SS, red, 6-spd, T-tops, Mcleod clutch, Pro 5.0 shifter, MAF processor, Direct Flow airlid, K&N filter, next mod: 4.10 rear gears
313.7Hp & 320.6ft-lbf, ET 13.55sec @ 105.1mph