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L98 oil cooler lines replacement I am attempting to replace the old rusty coolant lines on my 88’ gta l98 with the aluminum reproduction from Hawks. Problem is I’m stuck after disconnecting the hoses on both ends and removing the 2 bolts that hold the old lines in. The old lines just won’t come out, is there anything else I need to remove? I’ve done many searches and can’t find much info on doing this job. |
Re: L98 oil cooler lines replacement May have to raise the engine out of the mounts. Most of the replacement jobs I've been around are done with engine removed sooo I'm not much help. |
Re: L98 oil cooler lines replacement Really hoping not to have to go that route, looks like the 2 transmission cooler lines may be in my way. Might just try and cut the old oil cooler lines in 2 pieces to see if I can get it out that way. |
Re: L98 oil cooler lines replacement Update, I removed the old lines finally (actually had to cut the old ones out). The replacement aluminum lines from Hawks went in much easier than the old ones came out, they were a tight fit and I could not get the nut near the oil pan started but the nut for the front mount on the block was much easier, will try it again when the car is on the lift at my buddy’s but I don’t think it makes a big difference either way. I found the Hawks reproduction to be pretty good and they will never rust so there is that, also I changed the hoses going to the oil cooler while I was there and the lower radiator hose as well. |
Re: L98 oil cooler lines replacement Hi, did you have to raise the engine at all? I'm going to be doing this as well, would appreciate any advice, thanks |
Re: L98 oil cooler lines replacement Did not have to raise the engine or remove anything, just drain your coolant before hand. Hopefully you have better luck removing the old lines, I did this job without a lift and getting the old lines out was the hardest part. A sawzall would work good to cut if you have to, I did 2 or 3 cuts. |
Re: L98 oil cooler lines replacement @Reddragon88gta I sent this in a message but now that I think about it, it would benefit a lot of other people so I'm reposting here... I'm putting the same Hawks oil cooler lines in my 91 Z28. So I cut the old one to get it out, made new hoses between the cooler and pipes, and hooked that all up. I did slide the rear bracket up on the extended oil pan stud. I used this position to establish the new hose lengths. Now I'm nowhere near lining up on the front mounting bolt, and I'm touching the harmonic balancer... how did you end up getting everything to fit up? Tips? I hope... Anyone else successful install one of these? |
Re: L98 oil cooler lines replacement
Originally Posted by raptere
(Post 6464233)
@Reddragon88gta I sent this in a message but now that I think about it, it would benefit a lot of other people so I'm reposting here... I'm putting the same Hawks oil cooler lines in my 91 Z28. So I cut the old one to get it out, made new hoses between the cooler and pipes, and hooked that all up. I did slide the rear bracket up on the extended oil pan stud. I used this position to establish the new hose lengths. Now I'm nowhere near lining up on the front mounting bolt, and I'm touching the harmonic balancer... how did you end up getting everything to fit up? Tips? I hope... Anyone else successful install one of these? |
Re: L98 oil cooler lines replacement I ended up getting the lines fit up. I actually reached out to Hawks, and ended up having a good conversation with Bruce Hawk, the President. He was willing to do whatever was necessary to get things sorted out, but did also explain the intended/realistic design precision of the part required as he called it a little "tweaking" here and there. Bending of tubes or brackets small amounts maybe up to about an eighth of an inch. I found the distance from the rear mounting tab to the end of the straight tube, was about a quarter inch shorter than the factory tube, which seemed to be the source of my fitment issues. (Ill try to poste a photo) I then shortened my hoses about .25" and twisted the rear mounting tab to move it away from the rear end of the tube as far as I comfortably could to make up for this difference. I also did twist the front welded assembly to bring the mounting tab inward. I think part of the key is hooking up the front mounting tab first, then adjusting the rear tab to fit. The tube had to come in and out a few times to do this, but it got easier as I did it. After all these tweaks, I now have about a quarter inch of clearance from the harmonic balancer. |
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