bleeding clutch?
 

I've got a Howe racing brand hydraulic TO bearing. I have a 3/4" master cylinder of some flavor (forget the brand now).
I'm trying to bleed this POS, and it's driving me crazy. I've never "bled" a clutch before, so i'm doing it as if it were brakes.

There are two lines coming off the TO bearing, one is the main line, and one is the bleeder line. This TO bearing was setup by the previous owner (of the bearing), so the lines should be hooked to the bearing in the correct spot.

So:
-Does it matter if I have the bleeder hose higher/lower in elevation than the master cyl?
- I tried the tiresome two person version: open screw, "down", wait, close screw "up", wait, repeat.... but got tired and gave up.
- tried just opening the bleeder, and leaving it in a container of fluid, and just slowly pumping the clutch. watched air bubbles for a while, eventually stopped, still zero clutch movement.

Anyone use a hydraulic TO bearing before? Shed some light on this procedure? I have a goofy hillbilly linkage from clutch pedal to MC, but I believe i'm getting slightly over .5" of movement on the MC, so that should be enough (as long as there's no air...)

I have the tranny open on the side, so I can watch the clutch, no movement at all.

Help me out?
Thanks

Re: bleeding clutch?
 

Ok, it's a Tilton 3/4" MC.

I made sure to bleed the MC, via the bleeder screw there.
I made sure the hose from the MC to the clutch is below the reservoir level (altitude) at all times. I have a one man bleeder kit, and put it above the TO bearing, but below the MC reservoir altitude. I bled it until the bubbles stopped, and NOTHING.

I'm using a fork style double adjuster at the clutch pedal to the MC. I adjusted it to remove all the slack, to hold the pedal up higher.

I'm still getting absolutely nothing. I have no idea why. Any help???