Keeping the 10 bolt alive at the track
 

What would be the best way to launch the car with slicks to keep from breaking the rear? Would rolling into it or hitting it at part throttle be the way to go?

Engine prob has 380-400 fw hp, 2300 stall, 10 bolt with torsen posi and 28 spline axles.

Re: Keeping the 10 bolt alive at the track
 

with slicks your best bet would be to roll in to it, i broke my 10 bolt 3.73 28 spline axle with drag radials off the track, spend the money and get a 12-bolt or 9"

Re: Keeping the 10 bolt alive at the track
 

Mine went after about 20 passes at the track. First I was rolling into it. Than I started just dead stabbing it and eventually was footbreaking to about 1800-2200 and launching it. Got the 60ft down real good but after about 5 or 6 of those passes is broke the ring gear. My car also makes a bit more power than yours I think.

I knew I would be purchasing a 9 inch in the future so I was aiming for broke anyway. I probably could have ran forever just leaving off idle.

Re: Keeping the 10 bolt alive at the track
 

Okay, good place to ask. I plan to go eaton posi, 3.89 gears, 28 spline axles, Moser rear girdle and royal purple liquids. I plan to drift my IROC, will it hold up with these parts. Realize I wont be pushing much HP like you guys but will be high rpm most of the time. I wouldn't mind a 12bolt/9bolt, but don't have enough power to deem its need or never will (Maybe 300hp/tq max). I will be completely building up my LO3 with a Super T5, but lets not get into that talk. Just looking for reliability from the rear.

Let me know guys. I like to plan ahead.

Re: Keeping the 10 bolt alive at the track
 

Tough to say imo. I think its one of those things where it could last a lifetime or it could last 5 minutes. Buying a new rear is not cheap. So I would just get the new gears from richmond, the posi unit and a set of the moser axels. Than cross your fingers.

Re: Keeping the 10 bolt alive at the track
 

I have run the crap out of mine.....It it all all the supporting parts it will be ok for alittle bit. I have the solid pinion spacer, rear girdle, and bearing girdle. I have run 1.49 60's on it. Now I know it will not take it that long but it has lasted so fare. I am going to out a s60 in it once i can

Re: Keeping the 10 bolt alive at the track
 

I H8 WWD I have to ask, did you really quote yourself in your sig line? You know that's a sign of severe vanity don't you? I just thought I would bring it up. Sorry to Hijack.

Re: Keeping the 10 bolt alive at the track
 

The best way to make them last is to run it and pray it holds...

I have used 2 different 10 bolt 4th gen rears with zexel torsen differentials and so far so good.

First one was 3.42 gear. I've beaten on it with a bolt on L98 to 1.7x 60's. Then went to the 383 and hammered on the rear for a summer of 1.5x's. Then sprayed the car for a pair of 1.4x 60's, a 1.41 and 1.45.
Next year I had a twin turbo 401 motor (this past year). Rolled into that one for a few passes because basically the converter was too loose and car didnt leave hard anyway. It didnt brake boost off the line so it left relatively soft. 1.6 60's but it still had 650ish whp going through it
That rear finally broke by spinning tire hard on the street and then letting off half sideways and having tires hook up. Cracked the inner worm gear tooth and started to slip. Didnt feel confident in it so I swapped to another stock 10 bolt.

That rear was a 2.73 zexel torsen diff. I started launching harder and hitting 1.5 60's again on that, running in the 9.9's and 9.8's at the track. Last run of the year was a 1.49 60 foot and it held just fine.

This year I have a tighter converter that hopefully will launch much harder and get me low 9's.

I have had good luck with 10 bolts. They seem to hold good with softer auto launches, but every now and then they can hold a hard launch.

I know of a 1.38 60 foot by 87 TA on his 10 bolt. I got a 1.41 60. I havent heard much better than that. Oh and these are bone stock 10 bolts out the junkyard. Mine had no mods whatsoever.

Re: Keeping the 10 bolt alive at the track
 

:iagree: What he said. Some people have had 'em stand up pretty good at the track, others have had 'em break just driving around a parking lot or on the street. Either way, you got to know that it's not going to last forever. If mine will last one more year, I plan to do 12bolt or Dana 60 next year.

Dan

Re: Keeping the 10 bolt alive at the track
 

People always asking, where did you hear that from? That and I didn't get these from someone else, these are my words and how I feel. That's all, just want credit where its due. As anyone else would for quotes/pictures of their cars. I'd put my name (watermark) on a picture of my car, so anybody who takes it will know, its mine, not theirs (As we have all heard of Andy's Auto Sport taking pictures from here to sell their products). See why?

Also I see nothing wrong with feelings of excessive pride. It's better than being depressed and hating myself thus not achieving anything. I see nothing wrong.

Re: Keeping the 10 bolt alive at the track
 

So is it easier on the rear to just flash it WOT from idle or is it better to stall up to 1000 or 2000 and then go wide open trottle?

Re: Keeping the 10 bolt alive at the track
 

I would think load it up so the teeth are meshed and ready to go. Plus you usually run faster that way. But leaving the line harder by loading it up may put more stress on the rear :) Then again depending on the converter, it may flash up hard and hit the tires hard causing more stress on the gears just like a stick shift car does. You never know what will happen with 10 bolts.

Loading it up some and quick slipping the gas/brake to "walk" it off the line easier may help keep stress off the rear. You just have to experiement.