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Hey guys Im looking for replacement isolator pads for my z28s spoiler. Im going to take the car apart and have it painted. I have all my exterior parts except for the 4 hard plastic pads the rear spoiler sits on. Does anyone know where I can get a nos set or even a great used set? I will settle for aftermarket if they are identical to factory ones. Mine are squeezing out from under the spoiler and have peices missing from it. Thanks in advance
im wondering if i could take them to a 3d printer?...mine are still intact, would have to find someone and ask if its do-able...
From what I'm finding out, you'd have the market cornered on them if you did. Mine have turned to crusty crumbles which was allowing water into the decklid. Checked with three thirdgen vendors so far and no luck.
Yeah, true...Maybe Lon could get in on this one?...I will start to research my idea a bit, and if I can come up with something tangible, I will post here....
I found a company In Anaheim that is getting me a quote to make me a few sets of all 4 pads. I can see how much a run of 20-30 sets would cost. Ill keep this updated once I hear back from them
I found a company In Anaheim that is getting me a quote to make me a few sets of all 4 pads. I can see how much a run of 20-30 sets would cost. Ill keep this updated once I hear back from them
I'd be interested too. Although I am about to try and make something on my own just to get by for a short term fix.
Does anyone have any pictures/measurements of intact ones.
I can have neoprene rubber sheet die cut and my son has access to 3D printer/software if I go the plastic route.
A 12" x 12" neoprene rubber sheet grade 60A .125" thick on Amazon is $10.00 shipped which will do all 4 gaskets since the longer end ones are about 11" long.
From the tiny 1000's of pieces left from my original ones, It appears that the original thickness was about 0.125" and compressed down to about 0.09" which is what the average thickness of my crumbles were. I can't tell if they were originally plastic or rubber though..
I am in contact with a 3d printer..They wanted a file(dont have one)...he wanted a picture of the insulator(dont have one)...So I asked about me bringing in the actual part(mine are still intact)..Waiting for response...If he can do them,for relatively reasonable I will do the legwork and have a set made..If they pass my quality control, then I know I will place orders for people on the board here..I am extremely **** when it comes to my car/parts(see sig), so you will know that the quality should pass your own scrutiny..But hang tight,lets see what kind of info I get...
3d guy replied to me...says a 3d printed part most likely wouldnt hold up to heat and pressure from torque tightening....so i asked cost of making them in case i find a manufacturer who would need a prototype...so im waiting for response..and cost...because if its reasonable im gonna have him make them....and see if they will hold up...stay tuned....
Why not use the rubber-cellulose gasket material from Fel-Pro that you can buy at almost any autoparts store? That's what I'm doing. Easy enough to replace if it needs to be.
OK..Update..Spoiler alert,Its not good news......3D guy says if he had part, he would need to convert it to a CAD file,which would take 3-4 hours of CPU time(hmmm)...and then another 100-150 to make the part,depending on size/material....So, I'm fairly certain I am ruling that option out...I may do a rubber pad and trim/shape it myself...I dont REALLY need these parts on my car(some of you that have seen the car,know how I keep it up)..but I want to create a stock looking option..I have the means,intelligence,handi skills to make it happen...so I am willing to find material to work with..Anyone else comes up with option, please reach out/post info...Sorry guys...for now....
Thanks Zero. I ended up spending about 8 hours working on this over the weekend. I ordered 12" x 12" rubber squares from Amazon Prime at about $10 each. I wanted the BUNA N rubber for oil resistance but couldn't find the correct dimensions and availability so I ended up getting a general purpose adhesive backed rubber (50A durometer, smooth finish). I got one square at 0.125 (1/8)" thick and the other at 0.0625 (1/16)" thick. I made paper templates first of each of the shapes. One for the center pedestals and one for the end. The two center pedestals are identical and the outer pedestals are just inverted. I started with the 1/8" thick rubber sheet first as I thought that was probably the correct size. I traced the paper templates onto the rubber sheet adhesive backing with a sharpie and cut the shapes out roughly with an exacto knife. A single hole-punch tool for paper worked very well for the stud holes. I then used a dremmel tool with a drum to sand and finalize the detailed shape (warning - it smells horrible and you'll be covered in black dust). Once I was satisfied with the shape and made sure they each fit perfectly, I reinstalled the spoiler and torqued it down lightly. I wasn't happy with the gap between the spoiler and the rear quarters. It was about 1/16" to big. So... I started the whole process over with the 1/16" rubber. It now looks and fits perfect. I had to adjust the hatch pull down stoppers slightly to make the gap perfectly even on both sides but it was well worth the effort. I learned two things: the adhesive backing on the rubber sheet helped a lot. Easier to trace/mark on than the rubber itself and it keeps them positioned on the spoiler perfectly during installation. Also, the 1/16" 50A durometer seems to be the perfect thickness/hardness. I'd still like to see what the factory correct "Isolators" looked like. Wondering if there were provisions in them for the drain holes located on the spoiler's pedestals at all.
Wow..Nice write up....BUT..Can I see some pics?...Would love to see the AFTER photos of the finished product before installed...and then installed..I am glad you confirmed the size(1/16)..I thought 1/8 was gonna work....Also can you provide the link for the material...I know it has to be solid rubber,non cellulose/foam style...Glad you spearheaded the actual progress toward a possible fix!...I will probably tackle this route...and wondering if I can replicate enough to help others that may not be as inclined as you and I....Good progress,lets take it up a notch...
UPDATE: I switched back to the 1/8" 0.125 thickness isolators. I liked the gap very nice and tight (which the 1/16" material initially provided). It was to tight. After a few days of spirited driving and opening and closing the hatch about a dozen times, I noticed the gap getting too close for comfort and I was concerned that the spoiler would eventually hit the rear quarters. The gap is slightly larger now but I have the piece of mind knowing that I won't have any issues in the future.
I'll also try and post some pictures at some point.
i typed a long response only to have it disappear..The rubber you bought is solid?...and I'd like to see your work if you documented(pics)..Concern are the outer ones....thx..
I see that most want original but I decided io simply use rubber and nylon grommets. Put the nylon on the stud first to give it the extra height it needed and then the rubber ones to seal the hole in the deck.
That actually keeps the wing,etc. from touching the new deck paint.
If you shine a flashlight from one side to the other you can see a paper thin gap between the wing and the deck, just the way I wanted it.
i typed a long response only to have it disappear..The rubber you bought is solid?...and I'd like to see your work if you documented(pics)..Concern are the outer ones....thx..
Yes, the rubber is hard. Durometer examples are: 40A-Pencil Eraser, 60A-Car Tire Tread, and 70A-Running Shoe Tread.
50A seemed just right.
Hard to get photos at night after work on a black shiny car in the garage. Here's what I got with my phone last night. The adhesive backing is torn up from the sanding process to get the edges smooth and uniform but it should give you an idea of the rough shape.
Probably not the cleanest/neatest job but I'm happy with it.
Thanks for the pix..I am going to try to make templates, then try the rubber..It wont happen til next week, but I will document for the site...I was having issues posting,JT may have straightened out the error...so I'm testing reply right now!
05-11-2016, 03:00 PM
