Ghettobird52

Hey all so i really need to get this tpi pump into my tank. I want to do the job myself just not sure if i have the ability to do it in my garage. All i have is a floor jack and set of jack stands. What im curious about is how high off the ground does the a$$ of the car need to be in order to be able to have the rear end dropped, and then wiggle the tank out?

How did you do it?

Is this possible with a floor jack/stands?

Would you have paid some one to do it again?

Enlighten me with some success stories!

Thanks for your time and information!

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

About 40 inches from ground to arch of wheel well. What I found out is to get the front up about a foot also. Put it on Race Ramps. That way it doesn't "look as bad" and will give a little room if you need to disconnect the pipe at the Cat. HTH

Myself and a buddy did it start to finish in 4 hours
It was easy, no rusted parts/bolts
And when it was over with, we had pizza and beer. Good times

And saved around 400 bucks

Get a quality pump/screen sock and all, and if you have spendable income, put in a new float assembly

Was not bad at all. That was 15 years ago, 100k miles, with a GM pump. Drove the car yesterday. No issues

Bob

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

As stated above, but basically just high enough for the rear end to drop down as much as it will allow. Once it stops, there's no point to go any higher.

If you don't run into any really stupid stuff like I did, you should be fine. I was swapping my tank and the elbow was at a different angle, wouldn't go in. That was a few days of headache/welding/etc.

Ghettobird52

40" from the peak of the arch or of the bottom( I.E Base)? After more research today, It looks like its do able just i have aftermarket exahust (flowmaster 3" catback) that i'll need to most likely have to cut down in order to get that fuel tank out.

yeah i have a AC Delco Fuel pump & screen waiting to be installed, sounds good!

Do you really have to turn the fuel tank 90* to the right in order to get that filler neck out??

Once again thanks all for your time and advice!

tealman92

Yup remove the exhaust disconnect the shocks and the brake line bracket mounted on the drivers side and rotate the tank to drop it out. If you dont you risk cracking the tank at the filler neck. Ask he how I know. Spray all your nuts and bolts with pb blaster or wd40 the day before you start.

Ghettobird52

Good idea to soak the bolts the night before.

Do you guys think i should pull the fuel pump relay and kick over my car a couple times to get most of the fuel out of the lines before going and breaking them loose? The pump in the tank is fine still i just want to get this TPI pump in.

Also how did you guys handle the brake lines on the rear axle? Where the able to come loose enough so that the axle can hang no problems?

Once again thanks all!

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

Unbolt the lines from the body of the car to allow that extra movement.

You're doing what I did, over thinking it. Just get out there and do it; it's very straightforward.

Ghettobird52

Lol yeah i probably am this is just how i am; methodical. With big jobs like this, i actually right my self a Tools check list and then a step by step so i dont have to pull any sources up while working. Call it over the top, i just call it being ready lol.

EDIT: lol

MSgt Luttrell

LOL, I feel your pain, as a retired aircraft mechanic I too over do it on my automotive wrenching. My buddies make fun of my safety wiring and thread locker, but I never have loose header bolts either.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Put the rear in the air till the front bumper almost touches the ground.

Ghettobird52

Wow didnt know my pictures came in sideways? any who awesome thanks all i think im going to attempt it next weekend!

milhouse89

Nobody mentioned cutting a hole behind the back seat to access the pump. Anybody tried that?

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

It's called the trap door method, and it's not that well liked generally. By the time you go through all that effort you could have done it the right way!

milhouse89

Seems like it would be much easier and faster, but I've never done it.

tealman92

Its not easier nor faster as just stated. Takes just as long if not longer then the correct way.

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

the trap door method is highly hated on this site since it's hacking up" a car that otherwise didn't need to be messed with.

my opinion on it is that I wouldn't do it to my car but if I bought a car that the previous owner did it to and my fuel pump went, I'd sure be happy he did it.

Ghettobird52

**** i still havent done this...

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

I did the tank on our new car this last weekend! Fun (not), but still better than cutting up the car. Refreshed the rear suspension while we were back there.

Ghettobird52

truth be told thats why im trying to get myself motivated and get under there! Back in November i purchased new springs, shocks and couple other goodies but still havent done anything with them. I've had this TPI pump in my closet now for over 3 years and it hasnt moved. Its time... im serious this time lol

Drew

iTrader: (58)

It's not nearly as bad as people would have you believe. If the car isnt rusty, it's all just a matter of disassembly. Drop the axle down, open the torque arm mount, and roll the axle as far forward out of the way as possible. Get the exhaust out of the way, and you should have plenty of room to wrangle the filler neck out of the frame rail.

Ghettobird52

Will i need to remove more exhaust to get that gas tank out? Should i cut more out?

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

You need to remove the bit going over the axle. I can tell you from me doing this last weekend that you won't be able to skirt it by that.

If you can disconnect it at the cat, do it there and just drop it down. If not pick a place in the middle of the car that a muffler shop can have easy access to weld to, and cut it there. You can use a coupler from AutoZone to get you by in the meantime before getting it re-welded.

You don't have to "roll the axle" as described in the previous post. Not sure what that's about but I never had to do that.

After that:
> Remove Sway Arm End Links
> Remove Rear Shock Bottom Bolts
> Drop rear down a tad more
> Loosen hangers for brake lines so they don't bind
> Remove Track / Panhard Bars (2 screws go in the track bar from heat shield)
> Drop rear end as far as it will go (have the car on stands on the frame rails)
> Remove heat shields
> Disconnect fuel lines
> Support tank with something (I used a spare jack and a box to just put some upward weight on it)
> Remove Straps, drop tank out towards passenger side, leaning it so the filler neck can skirt out.

Ghettobird52

Thanks for the advice/info, i ended up cutting more out right before the rear axle, so now its empty from rear axle back. I'm actually unable to disconnect from the cat as when i had this exhaust system installed 3 years back they welded it straight on. The reason why i ask is because im actually not doing it today, only had a couple hours this morning so wanted to get that cutting out of the way. Thanks again everyone for info i really appreciate it.

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

With that out of the way the rest will go fast now.

I forgot to note the rear springs will come out with the axle dropping. Note orientation of spring on the rubber isolator for reinstall. Good time to swap since new Moog springs are under 50$

Let us know how it goes!

Ghettobird52

Exactly my thinking too. With the exhaust gone i'll just drop it and pull the tank out with hopefully little 'wrestling' lol. Funny you say that because 4 months back i purchased set of eibach pro kit springs, some kyb shocks and struts and a few other goodies that will be going in soon (subframe connectors and wideband o2) So while that rear end is down im going to throw in the new parts.

Ive owned this thing for over 8 years and have never touched the suspension, cant wait to see how its going to feel!

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

I was back under there today on the 89 doing lower control arms, panhard bar, and a panhard bar relocation kit. It's amazing how quick stuff goes after you've done it a few times.

Ghettobird52

Nice! What brand did you go with on those pieces and how are you liking them so far? Also what exhaust is that? 3.5"?

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

Founders Performance on the rear goodies. I went with non-adjustable as I don't plan to lower the car, or make it an autocross machine. Just a Daily Driver that hits the canyons occasionally.

https://www.foundersperformance.com/...maro-firebird/
https://www.foundersperformance.com/...s-panhard-bar/

The exhaust is a 3", but I'll be swapping it to true dual 2 1/4s since I have room now. That will be after the intake upgrades (SuperRam upper and lower, SLP 1 3/4 headers). Debating if I should swap heads and cam at the same time...

Ghettobird52

Nice looks like some good stuff! i dont know why just that pic makes the exhaust look huge.

I wish there was some canyons to drive in here in the valley. everythings flat for miles

Ghettobird52

What is this?



After pulling my muffler down and cleaning it down for a quick one i heard some rattling coming from within it. I peered inside and noticed this, i was able to pull it out.

EDIT: after more research it looks like catalytic converter honeycomb material... ****

Fire"Dutch"Bird

iTrader: (1)

It is!!
Unbolt the pipe behind the cat, and see if you can knock out more, before it comes loose by itself, wandering all over the exhaust...

Ghettobird52

its done with... its been knocked out for years. wow

Jbuchanan

Just did my fuel pump tonight in my 87 GTA. Wasn't as bad as I thought but I also have access to a lift. I did pull the carpet to make sure someone didn't do a trap door before I started. Glad to see it was unharmed. I do wish I would have had the extra funds to upgrade the rear suspension while I was under there. The shocks are new as are the sway bar links. After doing mine I will recommend not cutting a hole to access it, with a lift and never doing it before only took 3 hours including me rewelding the exhaust.

Ghettobird52

wow ok im getting out there tomorrow morning and doing it (hand tools and floor jack). FINALLY! Wish me luck guys. Ive prepped the job to help me out, so far this is what i have done;

Cut off exhaust from rear axle back.
removed back seat and pulled carpet back
Replaced fuel filter
removed swaybar and endlinks.
soaked all other bolts with PB blaster

Hopefully it will all go smooth! I will update

EDIT: last question if any one sees this BEFORE tomorrow morning.... while doing the sway bar and fuel filter couple hours ago i was just looking at the other items to pull and whats left.

One thing i had trouble identifying was the rear brake line bolt connecting it to the frame? Everyone says to let the brake lines loose from frame so that they have more room to flex but i was having trouble figuring out what/where i would do this.

Any last minute information/advice is GREATLY appreciated.

Once again, thanks everyone for your time!

Jbuchanan

Driver side, close to high pressure fuel line connection. Infront of sway bar link.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

"removed back seat and pulled carpet back".....Why?

Jbuchanan

Hey Bob88GTA, are you going to the AR show in April at Summit Racing? I noticed you are in Huntsville.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

PM'd

Ghettobird52

Ok ill take another look

Im replacing the rear shocks/springs as well.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Oh yeah, I remembered after I posted that. I forgot about that.

SOMETIMERS kicking in!

Ghettobird52

Anyone use the energy suspension rear sway bar bushings? endlinks seem way too small... wont fit. been stuck for over an hour.

Jbuchanan

By too small do you mean the bolt is not long enough?

Ghettobird52

I was unaware the suspenion needs to be 'loaded' when final tightening at endlinks. Once i got it on the ground it bolted up no prob lol.

Whew! ok guys its done and running~!! I ****ing did it. The rear is really tight now!!! It honestly feels like a different car, even though the front is still ****. now i need to get up front and get these struts, front springs in.

Things i noticed for first timers like myself:

This would be MUCH easier at certain points with an extra set of hands/eyes, guess thats what i get for having a nonexistent social life.

37-38" is as high as you can lift the car before it will just pull the rear end up with it (that is when still connect at rear control arms, torque arm and driveshaft.)

The tank almost HAS to come out at a certain angle, because of the filler neck. Be prepared for a wrestle. What i will say is this; pull out, down then to the front passenger side and turn. Thats how i finally got it out. When i put it back in i swear it pretty much slid right in, i dont know why. I believe those who stated they didnt drop the rear end and did it are full of it.

If you dont know when the last time your endlinks were changed, order some new ones. Both of mine endlinks had the bolts pretty much seized on it. One eventually unscrewed (after 45mins of quarter/half turns). THANK GOD the 2nd one actually broke. If you are going with Energy suspension endlinks/bushings, the suspension needs to be loaded for them to bolt up correctly.

If you are going from TBI fuel pump to TPI fuel pump and still running TBI (or lower pressure) CHECK YOUR LINES IN ENGINE BAY. I was just making sure nothing was leaking at first start up, and what do you know there was a large leak at my return line behind the throttle body. I was able to tighten it down and its solid now.

Done with the job? Go buy yourself a beer or pack a bowl (or both) and relax with your new fuel pump/ rear suspension!! Im really glad/excited that i was able to do this all on my own. Awesome feeling

EDIT: Also, make sure your hitting the correct 'lid' on top of the fuel tank when removing the sending unit. Ive done fuel pumps on two modern cars that had true access panels under the back seat (simple job). Those locking rings were on the outer rim, while as this one is on the inside.

thtanner

iTrader: (1)

Very glad you got this handled, the right way! I had to cut the end links off our 88. Saved me that 45 min

Jbuchanan

Congrats man, I did my first one last night and I am thankful I had a lift. A second set of hands would have been nice but I work better on my stuff alone lol. Not knocking anyone who wants to cut their own car but after doing mine I would recommend keeping the floorpan the way GM designed it. Glad it went well for you.

Ghettobird52

Yessir! No chopping up my f-body for me. WOW looks very similar!! If i had the tools to cut it out, i would of lol.


Just wanted to say THANKS AGAIN TO EVERYONE for helping out with your time/information and advice! It Wouldnt have been possible with out this website!

Jbuchanan

My next project is checking my disk brake 9 bolt out of my donar car. Any advice would be appreciated. I hear parts are hard to find.

Ghettobird52

Thanks my friend!! Well if your not, i am knocking those who cut up their rear panel just for an easy job. Do it the right way, or dont talk about it to me!! lol\

I also work much better alone, pretty much on anything. Just certain things like actually holding the tank up while on my back would of been easier with another set of hands to guide.

Well your at the right place! This website/forum has many intelligent/easy going people that love to help.

Ghettobird52

So unfortunately somethings not right with the suspension. When going at an angle over large driveway entrances (into parking lots and liquor stores) i hear a weird POP sound coming from my rear passenger side. Sounds like the spring or shock is getting caught and releasing tension and hitting the frame of car. I did re use the original bump stops. I thought i "indexed" the upper coil correctly, but maybe i didnt.

Its only from the rear passenger side and not from the rear driver side and ONLY when going at angle over a large driveway. When going straight up/down personal drive way there is no sound, everything seems perfect....

any ideas where to start? One thing to note, ive checked every bolt already and everything is tight as i can get with hand tools. The top shock mounts are a b1tch to grab (because you have to hold the top small *** mount with a crescent) but they seem tight as i can get.

Ghettobird52

So these ****ing sway bar endlinks are the cause of the loud pop. I just spent 4 hours redoing my suspension, dropping the rear end, unbolting shocks, reindexing springs MULTIPLE TIMES. With no help. I even moved over the passenger side shock and spring to driver side and the loud pop was still there. I said screw it "i wonder" if i take these endlinks off will it cause that sound? and what do you know it yupp, its these Energy suspension end links, or maybe my installation yet not sure how else you can put it on. I think i had them on too tight or something but the damn stud they supply is SO DAMN SMALL that its kinda scary driving around with only a couple threads holding onto it, thats why i actually had it tight. Can anyone else chime in with these damn things. so glad to know its not a bad shock or messed up spring. AND now im a damn pro at dropping the rear in this car lol

So right now the sway bar is just bolted to the rear end hanging there.

EDIT: im thnking about going and grabbing some duracrap and just throwing my poly bushings on it.

http://www.autozone.com/suspension-s..._461303_0_4145

EDIT #2: actually looks like the duralast swaybar links are manufactured by moog.