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So I actually bought a 89 Camaro Iroc, from a guy that's probably on here. Charles.
This is my dream car even though it's a little rough. I've wanted a 89 iroc since forever.
Brakes are shot, he said he's bled them, but they're still soft. Will probably get a shot to flush it out under pressure. Hopefully it's just a bubble...
We have to whack the starter after a hard drive. Will replace asap. Does anyone know any permanent solution to the over heating problem? Can i buy like a fancy heat resistant starter? I've been searching and seeing all the quick fixes that the original owner already did and told me about. Heat wrap etc.
Interior is shot. Going to get it detailed and cleaned up
First thing i want to do is fix the starter problem.
Welp, I hope you guys help me out on this journey, because I'm not much of a car guy/mechanic but this is my baby and I want her to be good!
EDIT: 3/30/17: Project C.A.M.A.R.O. Completely Awesome Modernization And RemorselesslyObtuse
To create a unique and reliable version of what I like to call my "Poor man's dream car." An affordable and stylish recreation of the 1989 IROC Z28 Camaro.
Safety first: In order of priority Brakes: Being able to stop the car is probably a good idea
-Find out what's causing mushy breaks: Booster or air in master cylinder. Maybe even pads that are gone.
-Braking system: Decide to upgrade or restore braking system and purchase accordingly. Lights: Safety is as simple as making sure I can see others as well as they can see me
-Replace bulbs until trying to do the BMW E36 Euro headlight conversion.
-Replace Foglights with clear ones and use Orange bulb.
-Figure out cool unique way to update tail lights. Seatbelts
-Redo the seatbelts: Either replace with bucket seats/shoulder harnesses or revamp simple over the shoulder system.
Performance Goals: Godly Daily Driver
Engine/Drivetrain: **KEEP IN MIND I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT CARS**
-Efficient engine swap: I'm not necessarily looking for more HP, but efficiently creating a steady amount is more important to me. I need to figure out what is available and what balance of power/fuel efficiency I'm looking for.
-Manual VS Auto: I love both. I don't see any overwhelming positive reasons why I'd personally choose one over the other. I get to hold my wife's hand in an auto and I get to show off to my buddies in an manual. That's about it. All above being said, I'd like to see this with a proper 5-6 speed one day.
Suspension: Soft and Low?
-Coil Overs - I hate the IDEA of lowering the car for aesthetics, but DAM these cars have a mean stance after you drop it a little. Would it be possible to get something that's in between? Like Air suspension or something?
Situational bs: If I ever came into more money than I could handle, I'd change everything. I'd even surgically remove the shell from the unibody for a new improved modern chassi and modern EVERYTHING. Because it's the body that spoke to me when I was a kid. Not the history. Remote start, Magnetic split diff, auto adjusting air/race suspension, completely custom dash with all the bells and whistles, hard top convertible, glowing badges, blind spot helping side mirrors, custom headlights, custom brake lights, ceramic brakes, luxury interior, etc etc lol.
I can't get to the heater core... I swear I watched every goddam youtube video and read every goddam article. I'm just not versed enough in getting around the car that I can't accomplish the simple things. I got the dash cover off and took out the speaker to get to the dreaded top bolt of the core cover, but I can't find a way to get to the other 2 screws holding in the heater core at all.
5 hours of failure has me at my limit. I'm a pretty patient guy, being a programmer, but I can't find my way around the car without wanting to break everything in sight.
Know that the way you will learn is by failing first, you will have to buy many new tools to work on this car, but they are an investment, so start slow and
enjoy the ride, it's all good.
I've heard of some who removed the ECM which helped afford access to the side bolts, others (maybe diff years)? .... keep at it you will figure it out.
Side should be easier than dreaded top bolt.
I would straighten out the mechanical issues before detailing the interior.
Overheat and bad starter .... might turn up other issues once you get it purring.
Thanks Jersey. After a couple hours of chilling I'm calm again. I actually think I got all the way down to the end, I also made sure to bolt in all of the bolts EXCEPT the top bolt. It's just a casing anyways lol. Tootie, I was thinking the same, but I bought the project car despite everyone's advice against it, so I have to make it a comfortable daily driver or else they'll just be on my case for the rest of my life. lol
Though, all the plastic and screw holes are so mangled, it was much harder than anticipated to reassemble. 30 year old car problems =P. I didn't get a chance to bleed the brakes today, but I think I'll just pay to have a shop do it, because I'm hoping to get this iroc to one of the top notch resto-mods in cali. Given alot of time of course.
...Though, all the plastic and screw holes are so mangled, it was much harder than anticipated to reassemble. 30 year old car problems =P. I didn't get a chance to bleed the brakes today, but I think I'll just pay to have a shop do it, because I'm hoping to get this iroc to one of the top notch resto-mods in cali. Given alot of time of course.
Two things:
1. Your reassembling of the dash the right way, etc will make it that much stronger and greatly reduce rattles. (make sure to use lots of dum-dum (3M Strip Caulk)).
2. I bought a vacuum bleeder and bled all my brakes. Once I got my technique down it was awesome and quick. Cheaper than paying a shop and you gain a tool!
For the heater core, extensions, a shorter one and a long one. I actually just did mine yesterday and it took about 30 minutes (91 firebird). I previously changed one in an 89 IROC I had, and that wasn't as bad as most people make it out to be. The hardest part was getting the inlet and outlet through those darned holes in the firewall.
Definitely though, a good 1/4 ratchet set, with multiple extensions make it a lot easier.
Hopefully I will finish the heater core tomorrow morning. I have a new one, but I think what stopped me was getting the hoses off on the firewall on the other side.
Got the lock on the passenger side fixed/replaced.
I'm trying to find a "permanent" solution to the starter problem. I've seen 2 things that stuck out on these forums so far. an LT4 starter and a mini starter. Considering i know NOTHING about cars, both of these seem to be proper, closer to modern parts that can possibly just be bolt on? Does anyone know which solution is best?
Very cool, Will look for a starter that fits I've seen anywhere from 60-220. What should range should I be in for a stock 89 auto iroc motor
Tomorrow I'll be dropping it off to get the brakes checked. Hopefully it wont cost me more than 300.. Not sure what's wrong, air bubbles, or booster.
What you need to verify is 153 or 168 tooth flywheel / flexplate. I've seen $40 starters on fleabay.
Your shitty brakes could also be attributed to the fact that factory brakes are shitty 10.5" single piston calipers from 1970 with redesigned leaky plastic master cylinder for thirdgens
Tested everything out. The booster was bad, rotors are also donezo. I am ashamed to admit i have NO idea how to get to my heater core hoses lol. The leaks are getting ridiculous. I'm almost to the point of just begging someone to do it.
I'm guessing i have to remove all this?
argh
Also it would be nice if someone told me what all that was
I'm a dunce. I'm guessing thats the AC unit. But question still stands, do i have to remove it to get to my heater hoses? Do uou think it would be possible from under?
The hoses are a pit of a pain to get to with all the in the way. I've done it before. You just need to get some determination and try it out. I believe I used a ratchet to get them off. One of the short swivel head ratchets may be best to get the clamps off.
03-22-2017, 12:47 PM
