someone972

iTrader: (2)

The brackets on my stock dual fan setup are broken and rattling. It's about time to upgrade the cooling I think. I've been looking through threads but haven't found much up to date or conclusive information. What radiator/fan combination is the most effective? Preferably one which can keep a high compression 383 cool (future proofing). Bonus points if it has a transmission cooler built in. I'm willing to be a little spendy if it's worth the extra cost.

antman89iroc

I tried a few combinations. It depends on your budget as there are a lot of good choices but they are quite expensive.

I first I added a pusher fan in the front with stock fans and rad. I don't know if it really helped any. Then I went with the stock radiator and the LS fan & shroud setup. It is dual fan like stock and the fans plug in. The difference is they are mounted in a shroud rather than on separate brackets. This did help but it still got 220+ in drive throughs on really hot days. My current combo includes the pusher up front, LS fans and a DeWhitts dual core aluminum. This does a really good job on hot days and even drive throughs but can still creep up to 200+ with the AC on and long idling periods. I run a 180 T-stat and can custom program my fans to come on earlier. Bear in mind I run a 414CI motor, underdrive pulleys etc.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

I'm running a stock radiator, with the LS dual fans/shroud as well. I'm also running a painless fan control kit that allows me to set what temp they come on, and fan speed anywhere from %50 to %100. I have mine set to come on at 50% speed at 185* degrees, and it never gets hotter than 185.

...and that's with a 180 stat

Jbuchanan

Do you recall how much you invested in this set up? Does it use the original sensor and switch ? Sounds like exactly what I've been needing.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

Interested in hearing more about that as well. It looks like some people still use the stock radiator. How much benefit is there to moving to a different radiator than stock?

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

I got the fans/shroud for free, but I see em often for $50 to $100. The fans are the same part number as ours, and have the same pigtail connection, but they ARE actually different. They look the same but blow much harder. ...the shroud was a 90% drop in. It's physically the right size, but you'll have to trim some of the plastic tabs, notches etc. etc. ....and although not necessary for installation, I personally wanted to use the stock plastic radiator cover, so I needed to trim a little of that too. If you check my sig, and go to my facebook page, scroll through the pics and you'll see some of the fan shroud/cover mods needed. Again.....it was close....but not quite drop in.

Painless kit was about $200. I chose it because I had to do some mods to make the fans work with the Holley EFI anyway. Figured since I had to go "custom" anyway, I'd rather control the unit with a switch and button (painless kit) rather than have to go into the software using a laptop to control through the Holley ECU. Plus I would've had to program some outputs etc. etc.
The Painless kit works great. Took about an hour or two to wire up. It's got a dedicated sensor in the DS head. If your fans are working fine now, under whatever system you're using, the painless isn't necessary. While I really like it, it's not needed at all for the 4th gen fan/shroud set up. I simply chose it because I didn't wanna use it with the new Holley EFI set up.

With the painless kit:
Both fans are either on or off.
You can set activation temp from underhood.
You can set what temp they start at 50% speed, and what temp they reach max 100% speed - from underhood.
From the driver seat you can choose "normal" operation, always on, or always off.
...you can wire in an AC switch, but I did not, and don't know exactly how it operates.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

Just kinda re-read that post. Just to clarify, the 4th gen/LS fan and shroud (electronically speaking) are a direct hook up for whatever you're using now. They'll come on at the same temp, use the same connectors, same sensors 2nd fan cuts on with AC, exactly the same. You're just hooking up different fans.

.....per my previous post, the painless controller was NOT chosen because I used different fans. I just happened to have a need for it. Has nothing to do with what fans I chose.

Jbuchanan

Hopefully by the end of summer I will have my 5.3 sorted out and ready to install. I have lots of studying to do and wonder if the painless kit will be a benefit. I have the motor on the stand but am undecided on trans at this point.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

I've certainly been thinking about messing with the fan control. Right now my AC doesn't work so my second fan is essentially always off, even when the car's getting a bit warm. Don't really feel like fixing the AC until I get the engine figured out.

someone972

iTrader: (2)

Going back to this now, my fans are starting to make quite a racket . Is the LS fan shroud from any specific range of cars? Does anyone know a good place to get one, maybe order online? I don't have a clue what part number to search for though.

antman89iroc

I bought mine from Summit Racing. I believe I ordered a fan & shroud assembly for a 2002 Camaro SS V8 radiator but it fits all 4th gens. It was a Dorman product and cost ~$90. They are a little louder than the original fans but that is due to the shroud I believe.
I mounted mine upside down. It seemed to fit better that way. Clearance at the steering box was tight. I trimmed the bottom of the shroud to fit into the lower radiator support and modified my upper support to fit the new shroud. I had to add a couple of aluminum tabs to the upper support to "grab" the top of the fan shroud. Fans plugged right in. It wasn't a major fabrication project and there are probably a hundred ways to do it but just expect it's not a true bolt in affair.

formula1LE

iTrader: (3)

The Dodge/Chrysler dual speed dual fans are a good fit as well. This fan kit is controlled using a 3-gang relay bank and a BMW dual temp fan switch mounted in an aluminum radiator hose adapter. Super bang for the buck for around $200. If you get used OEM fans make sure to test them out for any bearing noise and as long as the amp draw isnt crazy, no reason to not use OEM fans-they're typically far more stout than anything aftermarket or Chinese.