marcus25

I have an 85 chevy Camaro with 305 tpi motor, I recently had it fail on me with the engine starting up then stalling right after. I also keep blowing the instrument panel gauges fuse as well, every time I turn the key to run it. We have already replaced the ignition module and distributor cap, rotor was still in good shape. We think currently it at be the EGR valve, but don't want to dump unnecessary money on functioning parts. Has anyone else ran into this issue? Also should add that this was possibly caused by loose battery cables. Currently looking into troubleshooting the blown gauges fuse and have identified the wire im looking for as a pink/black wire (oh so many to choose from, thanks GM). I am trying to find what other components are linked to, but since its it under the driver side, there's no light and very hard to keep track. I dont want to disassemble this thing, dont have the time, but i'd like to get this issue cleared, which may solve my start/stall problem as well.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Look at the wiring diagram to see what components are associated with that fuse. Unplug as many as you are able. Put a new fuse in. It will not blow if one of the items you disconnected is the culprit. Then plug in 1 connector at a time until the fuse blows. That last one that blew the fuse is where your problem is. Good luck.

marcus25

Thanks for the advice, currently doing that, just trying to figure out how many components the wire is tied into because when i looked the wiring diagram, the wire is spliced into several different things and I've been unplugging and testing. Still, I'm blowing fuses left and right, however, when i disconnected the ip harness from the computer, i accidentally cranked the car over and it backfired, but i believe that happened due to the excess fuel in the cylinders or am i dealing with a bigger problem than i know of. Also to note, when that event happened i had a 15 amp fuse in, but it didn't pop, but i believe that because it was a bigger amp and not a 10, but if there is a shortage, shouldn't have popped regardless?

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

but if there is a shortage, shouldn't have popped regardless?

YES.

marcus25

Hopefully that points me in the right direction, but that happens to be a major connector that was connected on the passenger side of the car, I'm not sure if I unplugged all the connectors on the driver side yet, but I know I unplugged a 7 prong connector that was sitting between the steering column and the radio bezel on top of a holder that was not the fuse box. I also disconnected my instrument panel from its prongs as well, I would like to know if there are more connectors that I should be aware of being that the main power supply was disconnected. I may still have a bad spot somewhere, but if not. then I know what the culprit is. Just need to be sure, this is the second time all year the car wouldve been on the street. This is my daily driver, so I'm not the same without my V8.

marcus25

Update to my situation, I have the culprit in my blown fuse and it appears my transmission solenoid is burnt up or its the wiring from the engine harness. Once replaced, I believe I will have normal gauge functions. However, since when the fuse blew on the IP, my tach shot to 7 grand and hasnt moved due to the blown fuse. Im hoping that when the tach resets itself it will allow the computer to establish the right timing and fuel to keep the engine running fully. But if not, would it best to replace the entire computer or replace the chip since I had a short travel through it possibly?

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Did you disconnect the connector at the transmission? Do that and put another fuse in.
If it blows, then it's the wiring to the trans. If not, then it's inside the trans.
That connector is for TCC lockup. I'm pretty sure that you can drive the car without it for now. So if the fuse is holding, turn the key and see what happens. I bet it runs.

marcus25

I will attempt that later today to make sure, thank you

bk2life

sometimes the cig light plug on the backside grounds out.. not sure if itll help you but the more ya know

JA411

Cut circuits in half with separate fuses. Kept splitting until narrowed down to one circuit.
Joe

marcus25

Well today we disconnected the trans solenoid and turned the key to see if a fuse would blow but it didn't. Started the car, cranked over, caught but was a little hesitate since I had a few things still disconnected, but she ran on her own for the first time in a few days. Dropped the pan and have proceeded to replacing the solenoid. I'll give a update once its all done, but so far so good.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you found it.

marcus25

Car is back up running good, everything appears to be in working order. Next thing to do is reset the timing of the engine from disconnecting the computer and putting a new distributor cap on. Decided to leave a 15 amp fuse in the gauges slot since I was testing the circuits with them. Problem appeared to be linked to a trans wire possibly making connection inside the pan, so shrink-rap was applied and solenoid replaced, started her up and everything ran smoothly. Thank you guys for helping me out with this problem. Learned a valuable lesson: start with electrical then deal with mechanical.