Goumba T

Tried searching for this one, no dice.

Recently my FPR called it quits. While trying to remove those M3.5 screws, one of the heads broke off. Could find no way to get it out short of filing, drilling and tappping.

Guy at work told me he was a *great* machinist. Yeah, right. He tried to use an Easy-Out (after I told him not to, he did it anyway when I had to leave the desk), and not only that, but didn't even file the broken screw flush, so he went in kind of crooked. It doesn't look like he damaged the threads, but it's close.

So now I have a screw with a hole in it, going about 3/8 of an inch in, almost the width of the screw. Nothing to grab.

I thought of using some epoxy and a cheap drill bit to fill the hole and try to back out the remaining part of the screw, but before I make things worse, figured I'd ask.

Is there anything else I can try, before drilling and tapping the hole?

KyleF

Use a LH Drill bit. Might grab and pull out.

Use a small punch and see if you can walk the screw around

Before you do either of these, have you put penetrating oil in there? Bake it in the over for a bit and let it get hot with the penetrating oil then try various methods to extract.

This is not a perfect science.

Goumba T

Thanks Kyle.

I had soaked it in penetrating oil, never thought to use the oven. I have an old toaster I have been saving for just such an occasion.

I thought of an LH bit, I had bought a set for just this purpose before the guy did what he did. I'm afraid now that I don't have enough of the screw to grab without damaging the threads.

I'll give the punch a try first after baking it. Thanks again.

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

he tried to use an easy out on those little tiny screws? we are talking about the ones on a stock TPI fpr correct?

I would center punch the screw as best as you can and use a small drill bit to drill through it. the smaller bit gives you a fighting chance of not going into the threads if you're center punch mark is off center. once you have a hole on center, step up the hole until the diameter is close to reaching the threads of the fpr housing.by removing all that material, the fastener will weaken and youll be able to cave it in on itself and remove whats left of it. this will also work if you start with a small LH drill bit and slowly step up the drill bit size, it might just spin out before you have to do the dirty work.

This is usually a last resort method I use at work if a cold punch, easy out (on large fasteners), or LH drill bit don't work and I cant just drill it all out and tap it to the next size up.

rgauder

iTrader: (1)

Could you try welding a small nut on it?

Goumba T

It broke pretty close to the surface of the housing, maybe like 1/16" sticking out, I had thought of welding on a nut but doubt there would have been enough to get to. Anyway it's a moot point now after what this guy did.

Vader

There is always an option of either an EDM or tap burner.

Alternately, a decent welder could tack on (TIG) another M3.5 stud to the damaged screw, allowing the use of a nut and washer instead of the cap screw.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Or just find another fpr base that's not messed up?

Goumba T

That was my first thought when the screw broke. Unfortunately none to be had locally and on eBay they are pretty pricey and part of the complete rail assembly only.

This weekend I'm going to see what I can do, hopefully get the girl running soon, been 4 months now just haven't had the time.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

If you end up needing a fpr send me a pm I have a rail I'd sell you. Iirc the o-ring kit for the rail is standard motor products sk24.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

All else fails PM me, I may have a spare base laying around.