chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

I took apart the lg4 in my 1985 z28 to put in new headgaskets, valve seals, and what not. My lifters got all mixed up in the process.

I have read that it's best to replace the cam and lifters.

With that being said, what is a good cam I can use in my otherwise stock engine? And lifters to match?

Also, do I need to make sure the pushrods​​​​​​ are back in the same position they were before?

Thank You!

Jorlain

iTrader: (4)

No need to replace the cam unless you want to. Use a good quality oil (read: something meant for flat tappet cams) and toss in some new lifters.

Keeping the pushrods in order is more a guideline than a rule. If the push rods don't show any wear, witness marks, galling, etc, they can go anywhere you like. If they show signs of wear, replace them (AFAIK the reason to keep them in order has more to do with matching the wear patterns to the rockers and lifters than anything else). Measure your pushrods for replacement size (normally 7.818" stock).

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

When you say oil, are you referring to some type of assembly oil? What would you recommend?

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

To answer your question on what cam and lifters:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet
Combined with an exhaust upgrade and a timing adjustment, you'll have L69 performance

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Do I need to replace valve springs when doing a cam?

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Yes, you should. Definitely a MUST for a cam upgrade.

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

That K1102 is a good cam for Lg4. I used it or either the K1103 years ago and it worked well. Cam, lifters, and springs are cheap on a flat tappet engine so go ahead and change it out, well worth it.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Really appreciate the help.

One final question, are there different types of valve springs? How do I go about figuring out what I need, for example to work with the cam and lofters mentioned above?

Jorlain

iTrader: (4)

If you don't want to leave any doubt, get a cam kit that comes with lifters and springs.

Keep in mind that you'll have to break in the flat tappet cam. If you don't have any experience doing so, I'd recommend doing plenty of research beforehand (or even ask someone with experience for help).

Here's a quick down and dirty version, but is in no way all inclusive.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I have no problems looking up how to do thing. My only problem areas are the duration numbers and all of those types of specs. Not sure which is good, which is bad. I'm not looking for a real lopey idle or anything just something better than stock.


I really appreciate the help. And quick resoonses!

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

xxx

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

What ever you posted did not show up for me.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Read the last line (below).


Never use new lifters on an old camshaft. The taper necessary for lifter rotation is long gone. The new lifter with its crown will contact the cam lobe right at the center of the lifter's base = NO ROTATION. In a very short period of time you will find metal shavings circulating throughout your engine = DEATH.
Sure, some of us have gotten very lucky in the past with doing this, but is certainly NOT RECOMMENDED.

Jorlain

iTrader: (4)

I guess I stand corrected.

I've replaced hydraulic lifters several times without any ill affects, but I guess I was just lucky.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

I got away with it a couple of times myself. But that was decades ago, before they started screwing with the motor oils.

cuisinartvette

Gm lifters are pretty good quality shame they quit making them seems to be no standard anymore
Op bite the bullet and get all new stuff youll thank youself later. Have done cams reused old springs and never could figure out why the motor felt like it ran out of gas as it approached 5k. (springs)

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I think I will do that. Gives me a chance to upgrade a little bit. I'm just I'm sure ofcrhe actual installation. Such as degreeing and what not.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Degreeing the camshaft is not a 100% necessity.
But it does ensure that your camshaft gets installed as per the cam card and will perform as the manufacturer intended.
If you want decent parts at a reasonable price, check out Alex's Parts.
https://www.alexsparts.com/

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

So reading in to a lot of thing more, I've decided on just replacing the lifters. Now, my question is about installation. Do you recommend soaking the lifters in oil? If so what type of oil? And I know I need assembly lube on the face of the lifters. Is there any specific type?

One final question. What is the break-in procedure for the lifters?

Thanks!

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Re-read post #13 above.
You are about to make a bad decision.

chevydrvr

iTrader: (1)

Alright then if I am, give me a replacement cam number and springs if I need them.

Why do lifters need to rotate?

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Flat tappet lifters need to rotate because they operate with sliding friction (over 200,000 psi) and by rotating, this lessens the wear. With no rotation, they can wear in as little as 20 minutes and become a lathe and send all that sharp metal throughout your engine distributed by the oiling system. This can destroy all of your bearings, pistons, cylinder walls, and oil pump.

Roller lifters, on the other hand, have a roller wheel on the end of the lifter that rolls along the lifter's lobe and cannot rotate. They have to have some sort of mechanism in place to prevent rotation.

You can upgrade to a roller camshaft in your engine, but it is expensive and you have to change many other parts to do so. I know you probably would like to get out of this as cheaply as possible, who doesn't? Stay with the hydraulic flat tappet. I don't know how many miles are on your engine and what condition it is in, but to do this correctly, call Summit and order a K1102 or K1103 cam kit that includes camshaft, lifters, assembly lube, and matching valve springs for your heads. You will also need intake, valve cover, and timing cover gaskets & seal, and break-in oil (proper levels of ZDDP for flat tappet engines). Now would be a good time to replace your valve seals and timing set.

Sorry, I realize that this is probably not what you wanted to hear, but there is no super easy way out of this.

The chances of you installing new lifters, and having all 16 out of 16 live - you probably have a better chance of winning the lottery.

Jeremy85

You guys are begging for wiped lifters and lobes if you're combining new springs with new cam and lifters sets. Except roller lifters, of course. But too much seat pressure, like from new upgrade springs, is exactly what you don't want during initial run-in, and don't need for under 3500 RPM, which is the most it should see during run-in. If the new cam is under 0.466" lift, run it in with your old, fatigued springs. Much cheaper than a new set of Edelbrock 5802s for run-in and a new set of performance springs for after run-in.
Not only that, but if you're increasing lift with >100,000 -mile head assemblies, the valves are going to have wear ridges at the original maximum lift, so if the new cam slams that into the guides several thousand times, then more problems will ensue sooner or later.
The original 178/194 350/385 cams are still available new, as is the '82 LU5 3896929 cam, as is the real L69/LB9/'83 LU5 cam. That last one is relatively good, the off-idle torque isn't bad, the top-end isn't bad, and the idle quality is good. Lots of aftermarket cams are more powerful for similar money, but staying original saves the cost of pulling heads, replacing valves, and tuning for the cam.
If your stems were perfect and you had a healthy cam, you can run new lifters on a used cam, that's the entire story of Rhoads lifters right up until Dodge started putting them in the new Viper engines. Guys who installed too-wild cams and found them intolerable would remove the conventional lifters and drop new Rhoads lifters on the wild cam rather than order another new, less-wild cam.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Jeremy, good advice, but you jumped ahead a few steps. I would have recommended he use the old springs for break-in. We still don't how many miles his engine has or what shape it's in. Or his level of engine experience.
As far as your Rhoads lifters point, I would agree if you said hardly used cam. I would only try using new lifters on a used cam with no more than 1000 miles on it. More than that and you are playing Russian Roulette.
Don't forget that today's oils are not what they were when Rhoads came out with those variable duration lifters.

Now for a question: you have a 4L80E behind an LG4? Why? How? What?
Didn't that require surgery to your trans tunnel and a lot of other mods to fit that in there?