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The alternator on my '89 convertible went ***** up. It's actually a replacement, remanufactured AC Delco unit and I want to replace it with a new manufacture AC Delco alternator.
Rock Auto has one listed. Anyone have any other sources for NEW, (NOT remanufactured) AC Delco alternators?
Have you thought about rebuilding your current alternator?
$42, and the satisfaction of DIY.
If the failure was not castastrophic (see 17:20 on video below), such that it trashed the housing or the stator coils, you should be able to just replace bearings (drive them out with a suitably-sized socket), dress the contacts on the rotor with crocus cloth, and install a new set of brushes, and a new set of diodes. Right back in business.
I got paid to rebuild alternators for NAPA when I was 17. Child's play? Honestly, if you can change a wheel-bearing on a bicycle, you can rebuild an 80's era alternator.
The guy in the vid rebuilds it and leaves it pretty dirty. When I was rebuilding alternators I cleaned up the housings, and gave them shot of clear-kote, and the pulley got re-painted black. The guy in the vid uses an impact wrench to remove the pulley nut. The impact is not required. I remember just using a common ratchet wrench. Torque-spec on the pulley nut is only moderate. Somewhere around 70 foot-pounds - one "ugga" should do - maybe and ugga-dugga if you don't turn wrenches much.
Have you thought about rebuilding your current alternator?
^^^This^^^
A CS or a 10SI alt is just about the easiest thing there is to rebuild.
Unless you just have to have new aluminum castings etc....
6203 double-sealed bearing (different bearing mfrs will have different prefixes or suffixes around the 6203, if you walk up to the counter and ask for "6203 bearing" they'll tell you they don't have it, but if you get em to let you look at the boxes on their shelf you'll easily find it) in the front; the back bearing hardly ever goes bad, clean it out and use moly grease in it; new brush set; replace any smaller failed electrical components (diode trio, regulator) with new; if the main rectifier is bad (extremely rare), replace with used; sand the slip rings with about 180 - 220 grit sandpaper. Hardest thing is getting the pulley nut off, followed by getting the shaft out of the bearing without destroying the bearing retainer although most of the time you can just flatten it back out and re-use it. Sand the shaft just a taste and put some grease on it so it comes apart easier next time.
For that matter, if it just suddenly went bad but the bearings are still OK, might be worth troubleshooting a little bit and just changing out the part that failed. Which is usually the brushes or diode trio.
You will need one highly specialized tool, to hold the brushes in their holder during assembly. Probably has a GM or Kent-Moore part # and costs hundreds of bones. A toothpick, paper clip, etc. works great instead. You'll know what you need the instant you see the brush holder.
Last edited by sofakingdom; 12-09-2017 at 10:57 AM.
Thanks guys! If it were the original alternator I would definitely rebuild it. But it's a remanufactured replacement.
Although it's an AC Delco, there was always something weird looking about it's housing casting. Maybe I was the only one who noticed - but once you notice something, that's all you can see. I'm weird like that!
BTW, the car has only 7,800 miles on it and this is apparently going to be it's third alternator.
If your alternator is making this sound, it is right on the verge of puking the bearings out the back, and trashing the stator when the rotor crashes into it. I wish I had kept the camera running for when it locked up completely. When that happens, the sound of the "clunking and clacking" you hear in the vid is positively soothing by comparison to the death screech of a seized alternator.
If you can get a NEW AC/Delco from Rock Auto for $84, you should be all over that. Let us know if what they send you is truly a new AC/Delco unit. I gotta tell you, that price does not sound right for a NEW unit.
GMpartsdirect lists an alternator for over $200.
Discontinued.
Here's the new $100 Autozone "Duralast Gold" mexican unit (which works great by the way) that I put on my car after the bearing-puking incident.
When they "remanufacture" an alternator, the ONE THING they never replace, is the casting.
Not sure what could be "weird" about it, maybe if you were more specific it would help.
Both noisy bearings and overcharging are very eeeeeeezy repairs.
Note that in the photo up there, you can see "6203" on the bearing seal.
The casting looks distorted, especially around the vent windows, (if that's what they are called???) at the back of the casting.
It looks like a reject casting that they used anyway. I was thinking of replacing it anyway "some day". The fact that it failed brings it's replacement to the head of the line.
If you get in a pinch with the whole thing, I think I have a working AC/Delco that I got as "boot" with an engine I picked up last weekend. Came off a '92 V6 Firebird. Since my Mexican unit is working fine, and I'm not a purist, and I don't think I'll have any use for the Firebird unit in the foreseable future, the Firebird unit is probably going to be just so much hoarded clutter in my cave. It has a "remanufactured" sticker on it though.
Right now, its just taking up space in a box in the passenger floorboard of my '88. Along with a PS pump, and assorted brackets and hoses from the 'Bird.
The PO pulled it all out with the V6 to do a - guess what - LS swap.
I can shoot you some pics if you like. Message me if interested.
Now I'm not going to go pull a Hollander manual off the shelf or anything, but it's important to know there are several different CS alternators. My favorite is the one that's just enough smaller that the bolt holes are about half a hole from lining up. There also a couple different clock positions for the mounting ears. While I haven't looked, I'm pretty sure a V6 CS and a V8 are different. And I know a 87 V8 CS is different from an 88-92 V8 CS.
I went through at least three alternators on my 87. Finally I took the latest failed discount parts alternator to the mom and pop starter and alternator shop, and I told the auto electric Orc behind the counter to rebuild it with quality parts. Got it back and haven't had a problem with it since. And I don't mean like I'd replace the alternator, and it'd be fine for a few months and go out, I mean I'd replace an alternator and it'd barely work, until finally I got sick of it and bought a new one.
I've had the back bearing blow out of a few different CS alternators. It's an easy fix, just crack the covers apart, replace the bearing, reset the brushes and reassemble.
I put new bearings in a pair of CS alts I had laying around about a year ago. The only difficult part is getting a bearing off a shaft when it's been on there for 20+ years. In both cases the brushes had lots of life left in them, so I cleaned up everything and threw em back together, good for another 10 years.
One final thought, a NEW alternator from ACDelco now, probably isn't even made by ACDelco. Pretty sure GM threw all the electrical branches into Delphi, and then spun Delphi off into it's own company. Even if some entity of GM is still manufacturing alternators for their new cars, I can't see them bothering to manufacture NEW alternators for 20 year old cars. Chances are a new ACDelco is going to be made by whoever makes alternators for 20 year old cars in Mexico. Kind of like how GM brake hoses for our cars are made by Sunsong in China, or ACDelco hoses and belts manufactured by Gates. Chances are pretty good a new ACDelco alternator is coming out of the same Mexican facilty that makes the new no-name alternators on Ebay.
Chances are pretty good a new ACDelco alternator is coming out of the same Mexican facilty that makes the new no-name alternators on Ebay.
I would believe that. The link I provided can provide closeups of the alternator. On the back of it, it doesn't say AC Delco in the casting like an...ermm...AC Delco one does.
I've bought the new ACDelco 335-1012 Professional alternator twice now off Amazon (one per car) and it's been absolutely great. Note that "Professional" is not "OE." It will be a higher-end manufacturer but not the original unit. Only ACDelco OE is supposed to be 100% identical to what's on your car going out of factory, and even then that can change slightly over time.
ACDelco
Advantage: Cheap generic parts store crap re-packaged. This will be your standard Duralast stuff in an ACDelco box.
Professional: Higher-end generic parts re-packaged. Will be better known brands like Remi, BWD, etc not no-name pieces of junk.
OE/Original Equipment: Same equipment that came on your car going out of the factory. It may change slightly over time but 99% of the time it should be identical.
Image taken from a page describing their brake parts, but it still applies
I've bought the new ACDelco 335-1012 Professional alternator twice now off Amazon (one per car) and it's been absolutely great. Note that "Professional" is not "OE." It will be a higher-end manufacturer but not the original unit. Only ACDelco OE is supposed to be 100% identical to what's on your car going out of factory, and even then that can change slightly over time.
ACDelco
Advantage: Cheap generic parts store crap re-packaged. This will be your standard Duralast stuff in an ACDelco box.
Professional: Higher-end generic parts re-packaged. Will be better known brands like Remi, BWD, etc not no-name pieces of junk.
OE/Original Equipment: Same equipment that came on your car going out of the factory. It may change slightly over time but 99% of the time it should be identical.
Image taken from a page describing their brake parts, but it still applies
Looks like the one I ordered may be the "Professional".
If you guys are going through alternators that quickly, I would suggest doing new battery cables. The cables get old and build up resistance inside the cabling (that you can't see). This creates more heat and resistance. So the alternator ends up running full blast trying to charge the battery. As such, the alternator dies early.
After going through 2 alternators and 2 batteries in 2 years, I went with Innovative Wiring's battery cables. I did that about 8 years ago. From that point on, the alternator has lasted with no problems. Battery gets replaced about every 4 years. The quality of these cables is beautiful.
^^^^^"Included with this package is a Delphi Delcotron, CS 130 series generator assembly, part number 19152464, ACDelco part
number 321-464. It is a 105 amp, remanufactured unit."
I have a friend who works in the parts Biz. He told me many times the only thing difference between the std & premium parts is your paying more for a better warranty, but its the exact same part other than the part number & the box. Not sure what parts are truly like that, but sometimes when you step up to the next level for a more reliable part, that just might not be the case. Not saying thats true with these particular alternators, just some parts in general.
On a related note, When I bought my 89 GTA the previous owners had just put on a rebuilt alternator from auto zone. They were really surprised I was disappointed & wanted the original unit. The original was turned in as a core and was long gone. Still Bummed about that..... The one thats on it looks & works fine, but has the wrong color fan & pulley.
If you guys are going through alternators that quickly, I would suggest doing new battery cables. The cables get old and build up resistance inside the cabling (that you can't see). This creates more heat and resistance. So the alternator ends up running full blast trying to charge the battery. As such, the alternator dies early.
After going through 2 alternators and 2 batteries in 2 years, I went with Innovative Wiring's battery cables. I did that about 8 years ago. From that point on, the alternator has lasted with no problems. Battery gets replaced about every 4 years. The quality of these cables is beautiful.
If you can get a NEW AC/Delco from Rock Auto for $84, you should be all over that. Let us know if what they send you is truly a new AC/Delco unit. I gotta tell you, that price does not sound right for a NEW unit.
GMpartsdirect lists an alternator for over $200.
Discontinued.
Here's the new $100 Autozone "Duralast Gold" mexican unit (which works great by the way) that I put on my car after the bearing-puking incident.
This is the exact alternator I received, complete with the Made In Mexoco sticker, except it also has an AC/Delco sticker on it. At least if all the gold stuff were black, it would be passable as a factory unit.
Right now I'm deciding if I should put it on or send it back.....
Duh, I just realized why the casting of the rebuilt Delco unit on the car looked so weird to me. Not only is the casting pitted, it's missing a piece from the vent area.
Brian, when I search 19152464, I'll usually get a pic of a rebuilt unit with only BAT cast in the back instead of that and Delco Remy.
As stated above, the brand new "Delco Pro" unit has been working great on two of our cars. Zero problems. Great power output. The gold ring is a little annoying but I don't care that much.
Upgrade your wiring if you want to really be pleased with your cars power situation.
As stated above, the brand new "Delco Pro" unit has been working great on two of our cars. Zero problems. Great power output. The gold ring is a little annoying but I don't care that much.
Upgrade your wiring if you want to really be pleased with your cars power situation.
I'm sure it works great. The terminal in back looks different though, no issues with that?
The gold ring I CANNOT live with on a 7K mile car, however. I placed it under the hood just to see and I suddenly felt like a Persian Gulf oil prince getting ready to do donuts on a desert road - so great was it's golden bling.
Gold maybe a sign of wealth and prestige to some, (and like most of us we wouldn't mind that royal oil money in the least bit) but on an alternator, just keep the stator body black or the same color of the casing for uniformity.
Anyways, before I start disassembling and repainting a new alternator and turn a 4 minute job into an hour project, I emailed Rock Auto, since you can no longer call them, to see what they say.
The plot thickens! Good thing this car is hibernating until Spring.
They started using those adapters so one alternator would fit multiple applications. It literally takes less time to take the adapter off than a phone call. Don't have to open the case, it should just be screwed on the factory style stud. If it doesn't spin right off, you can always use the stud from your old alt.
They started using those adapters so one alternator would fit multiple applications. It literally takes less time to take the adapter off than a phone call. Don't have to open the case, it should just be screwed on the factory style stud. If it doesn't spin right off, you can always use the stud from your old alt.
Oh, I know. I'm not worried about that. I'm just disappointed in it's appearance, specifically the gold stator body and pulley. What gets me is that you can't actually speak to anyone at Rock and if you try, you get a recording stating that the picture posted is EXACTLY what you're getting and there is no other information that they can give you. So, I'd like to hear from them with an explanation.
Good thing it's 21* here with salt on the ground and I have no pressure to get it ready for tomorrow's cruise night.
This alternator thing is turning into another TUNED PORT INJECTION emblem situation.
I replaced the alt in my 89 Iroc convertible with the new ac delco unit from rock auto.Very happy with it and the cost was cheaper than a rebuilt one from auto parts stores
I replaced the alt in my 89 Iroc convertible with the new ac delco unit from rock auto.Very happy with it and the cost was cheaper than a rebuilt one from auto parts stores
If you guys are going through alternators that quickly, I would suggest doing new battery cables. The cables get old and build up resistance inside the cabling (that you can't see). This creates more heat and resistance. So the alternator ends up running full blast trying to charge the battery. As such, the alternator dies early.
After going through 2 alternators and 2 batteries in 2 years, I went with Innovative Wiring's battery cables. I did that about 8 years ago. From that point on, the alternator has lasted with no problems. Battery gets replaced about every 4 years. The quality of these cables is beautiful.
I have those wires in my convertible.My positive cable was spliced in several spots and I had hot start issues.Car would not start after it was shut off.Had to wait till it cooled down and then it would fire up like normal.These wires solved my problem 100%
My "gold" Autozone alternator is working great after a year's time.
The gold is oxidizing some, and starting to look less bling-ey and more like the rest of the corroded stuff under the hood. I'm not trying to impress anybody or win any contest with my car. I just love it that it starts, and I'm 5 minutes from the interstate, where I can run it WOT for miles without hitting triple digits - and since I completely rebuilt the front suspension, it doesn't feel like I'm about to die whenever I hit a little rough patch.
Its a really fun car to work on. I think that's what I like about it best. My goal is to work on it here and there, and do all I can to not get it so torn-apart at any one time that I can't drive it for weeks. I've got spare parts, and parts that need to be put back on scattered all over the house and in the shed. My wife is a little annoyed - especially if she stubs her toe on parts, or tools that I've left *****-nilly. But I remind her that so long as I have that car as my "mistress," she has nothing to worry about besides me maybe dropping the car on myself.
I got an awsome set of fourth-gen leather seats that I need to install yet. Meantime, the wife sits in them to watch TV and talks about how I might need to let her keep them for TV-watching. Who would have ever seen THAT coming? Now I gotta go part-out another fourth-gen for more leather seats.
Rock Auto got back to me and said "sorry, we aren't responsible for the parts not looking like our pictures" and to send it back if I didn't want it. Today I was going to disassemble and paint it ....but, I thought wait.... let me do some more searching...
I found a NAPA one state over with a correct, Delco Remy alternator in stock. It's rebuilt but has a lifetime warranty. I had the guy physically get it and confirm to me that it has a black fan, pulley, stator body and has "Delco Remy" embossed into the back of the casting. They will be shipping it to my local NAPA for me to pick up. 100 bucks with a "gulp", 60 dollar core charge.
All that, and $160 bucks for a remanned alternator...
The story of my spare CS alternator goes like this... Was pulling parts off a car before dude sent it to scrap. "Hey are you going to use this alternator?" His reply, "No, I don't want it". Sat on the shelf for a couple years, got bored and tore it down, cleaned it up, popped in new bearings, fresh coat of paint, reassembled... Grand total : Maybe $20 in parts? Looked a little worse than your core to begin with...
I guess the point I'm getting at, is there are easier ways to get a part that's "right" without jumping through all the hoops. If hoop jumping is how you enjoy spending your free times, then disregard. Just seems like a lot of fiddling, and this is coming from a guy who tore down a functional alternator just to make it cosmetically less-funky.
At some point you have to do the footwork and make salvaged parts like new again.
All that, and $160 bucks for a remanned alternator...
The story of my spare CS alternator goes like this... Was pulling parts off a car before dude sent it to scrap. "Hey are you going to use this alternator?" His reply, "No, I don't want it". Sat on the shelf for a couple years, got bored and tore it down, cleaned it up, popped in new bearings, fresh coat of paint, reassembled... Grand total : Maybe $20 in parts? Looked a little worse than your core to begin with...
I guess the point I'm getting at, is there are easier ways to get a part that's "right" without jumping through all the hoops. If hoop jumping is how you enjoy spending your free times, then disregard. Just seems like a lot of fiddling, and this is coming from a guy who tore down a functional alternator just to make it cosmetically less-funky.
At some point you have to do the footwork and make salvaged parts like new again.
Hey nice job on that stuff!
Believe it or not, I hate hoop jumping!
Actually, this would have been straight forward if this were the car's original alternator.
Thanks! It's a work in progress, the PS Pump is rebuilt and repainted, bagged and boxed until I'm at that point. The WP pulley still needs another coat of semi-gloss black, and to be honest I've gotta heli-coil the top ear of the alternator because the threads are crossed.
I can appreciate the struggle. Did something similar with remanned brake calipers to get a set that were both cast gray, looked all over for a serp waterpump without a bypass port, and so on... Still need one small wire rad hose clamp for the Iroc too... But hunting for the right part is half the fun. Keep fighting the good fight.
12-09-2017, 09:30 AM
Keep fighting the good fight. 