blinky22

I am upgrading my L-98 in my 89 IROC with the following

Heads (Afr 195’s)
Cam (268xfi) lifters, pushrods and timing set
Headers and y pipe (headman 68470)
EBL Flash for tuning
Porting the intake, plenum and enlarging the runners for now but will probably go to a HSR for next winter’s project.
Going to go with a 2300 stall but will need to confirm with manufacture
Will be deleting all the emissions as there is no testing here.

I have removed the engine, heads, intake and runners and started the porting process.

Seeing as I have the engine removed and pans all off the mechanics in our shop at work suggested that I should change all the bearings, rings and freeze plugs for good measure. The bottom end is fine and burns no oil but the parts are cheap so I am going to do it.

Going to use the following parts
SLP-1235M - Sealed Power Cam Bearings
SLP-4663MA - Sealed Power MA Series Main Bearings
SLP-8-2555A - Sealed Power A-Series Rod Bearings
SLP-E-251K - Sealed Power Performance Piston Ring Sets

Do these look good for the purpose of building a somewhat reasonable performance street engine? That will only get about 1000 kilometres on it every year and see no track time.
These seem to have good reviews on online retail sites and some have been recommended here.

I see there is somewhat of a disagreement if you need to hone the bores for the new rings I have not 100% decided if I will or not as you can still see the cross hatching.

Any input is appreciated

Blinky

AlkyIROC

It sounds simple but changing the bearings without doing measurements can cause a lot more damage. If in doubt, you get the crank machined.

Cam bearings will need an installer but cam bearings rarely fail unless there is something specific that causes the failure such as a loss of oil pressure.

New rings need some sort of new surface to seal to. A simple ball honing may be enough. It really depends if the cylinders are out of round or not.

How much mileage is on the engine?
Do you really think the bottom end needs to be touched?

Price out a replacement short block from GM, NAPA, Auto Value, Parts Source, etc before you start doing anything to the bottom end. It may be a lot cheaper than buying all the parts and putting any work into it. A replacement shortblock will already have all the bottom end work done and will come with a warranty.

A replacement shortblock can easily have the cam swapped to what you want and you're already going to buy a set of heads.

blinky22

The car has about 48,500 miles on it. some photos as a reference of what I am working with the head and block was before any thing was cleaned up.

In my opinion I don't think it needs to be done as it ran like a top when I pulled it.
But our mechanics in our equipment shop that over hall our heavy equipment and transport trucks think that it is cheep insurance as it is more or less stripped down now.

I have full access to our shop tools and help as needed to ensure all the tolerances are met.

A replacement block would likely cost around $1,800 + up here in Alberta
and probably $250 for the rings and bearings.

I do plan on putting a 383 together in 2-3 years so that is an option later but I have already spent to much on all the heads and other parts. About the only way I could get away with it now would be to spend about 1 1/2 times the value of the 383 on jewellery for the wife's Christmas present LOL I might be on to something there.



Thanks


Blinky

AlkyIROC

Clean up all the surface and slap it back together.

NAPA has a basic re-main kit with rings, main/rod bearings and gaskets for $500 CAD. Part number KIT 2051151M.

That isn't including a new timing chain/gear set for your cam swap. That's around another $50 for an OEM chain setup.

Last time I saw a replacement long block, it was around $1200. Not sure about a short block. I think it was closer to $1000 but that was also about 10 years ago at a Parts Source (Canadian Tire).

blinky22

I have all my parts and gaskets all ready except the rings and bearings so that kit is a bit much for what I need. I picked up my heads, cam and the other parts at Mopac a few weeks ago.

that kit up here in fort McMurray is $740 at Napa what a rip-off they are here but I can get our corporate discount so it would probably be that 500 or even less. there is a 350 sitting on a pallet at bumper to bumper I will ask the price next time.

I probably wont bother changing the bearings or rings but I will see what the cam looks like but more than likely it will be in good shape like the rest of the engine.


thanks


Blinky

Vader

Are you planning on running those dished pistons?

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Don't touch it IMO. You will cause more harm than good. That looks excellent. Its not cheap insurance - it will more than likely create accelerated wear if you mess with it. If you do go for it, don't get anywhere near those cylinderswith a hone. Just install the factory style rings and they will seat just fine.

GD

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

I agree with these guys. Clean it up and slap it back together.

blinky22

well I thank I am going to leave it as is and clean it all up really good and bolt on all my new parts on.


Yes Vader I will be leaving the stock pistons in

thank you all for the help


Blinky

fstarocka

since its open I would DEF consider a piston change! thats about the only thing killing the motor! Get some slip on pistons (press on ones can be tricky)!

Aim for a static comp of 9-9.5.

BEST thing you can do (drumroll).



- ORDER a plastigauge set on ebay. Best $20 you will ever do (get the green ones for a chevy) - its enough gauge for another 10 engine builds at least. Takes out the guessing game and no more than 20 minutes to do bottom end when its together on the stand (upside down).

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

If your new heads have a smaller combustion chamber than stock, then you have already bumped up your compression ratio. Just remember to use a thin (.015") head gasket because you will want to maintain the proper quench distance of .040" and your pistons are most likely .025" down from the deck surface already.
Don't mess with the bottom end. Just give it new gaskets.

blinky22

I picked up the FelPro gasket as recommended by AFR and looks like this is going to be too thick so I will have to pick up a thinner gasket. I am thanking I will go with the FelPro 1094 as they seem will reviewed here.

Some say you should use copper sealant some say not is there an advantage to using it or just extra insurance?

Thank you for the replies



Blinky

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

You DEFINITELY NEED flat-top pistons, going from the stock iron heads to aluminum.

The heat transfer (insulation, if you will) characteristics of the 2 metals, are VASTLY different. Aluminum allows heat (energy, power, etc.) to seep/leak out of the combustion chamber and into the coolant MUCH more readily than iron. As a result, aluminum heads REQUIRE somewhere between ½ and 1 full point of compression, to make the same power at the same RPM, all else being equal.

Heat is what does the WORK in an engine. That's what comes from burning fuel. Letting it escape costs power, esp at low RPMs, and of course, gas mileage. The more that escapes, the more fuel you have to put in to get the same power (gas mileage), and/or the less useful work output you get for any given amount of fuel (torque/power). Meaning, if you make that swap and all else stays equal, your car will LOSE a substantial amount of power. Might even be a net NEGATIVE to the actual HP as measured on a dyno or time slip.

Your cyl walls look to be in good shape, and the rings therefore are probably also in good shape. From that standpoint, you'd want to leave it alone and not touch it. However, in this case, given the nature of the other change you are making (Fe -> Al) there are other considerations besides just that one.

If it was me I'd put flat-tops in it. New pistons, new rings, use the "break-in powder" stuff they make so you don't have to mess with honing the bores. Unless, the chambers in your heads, are 58cc or smaller. (in which case all else is NOT equal...) Post that number (since you didn't put up the part #) and the correct course of action will become obvious.

blinky22

well I have gotten some work done the block all cleaned up and painted. I did not change the bearings or rings. I ended up using a .015 Fel pro 1095 and the compression should be around 9.5 with the stock pistons well not ideal it should be ok for now until I build my 383.

cam installed new lifters and push rods, ARP stud kit, AFR 195 (1040) heads on 1.6 roller rockers, new timing set and 2 peace timing cover, new pan gasket and repainted pan.

still to need to port match the Plenum, runners and base now I have the TPI gaskets. Next shift kit the trans and new torque converter trans cooler and get a EBL flash I should have every thing and it all installed by April just in time for the snow to be gone.


Blinky

blinky22

Test fit mock-up




a summer pic for good luck

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Nice work. A few tips:
Get some paint on the raw metal surfaces (decks).
Use a better oil filter. Fram is not what it used to be.
That 2 piece timing cover might require some tweaking.
Get the seal as close to centered on the crank's snout as possible.
Replace the black allen bolts that came with it with stainless steel.
If your block does not use a camshaft retainer plate, then you need to
set the proper end play to the cover using a cam button.
Never mind that last tip - I see the spider - roller cam block.

AlkyIROC

I wouldn't use a Fram filter if they were free.

My race car uses a System 1 filter. I can take it apart and clean it. Everything else that I need to buy filters for use WIX filters.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

+1 on WIX. They make an excellent filter. They also make filters for Napa so those are the same thing.

And yeah - FRAM is pretty horrible. Just cheap paper, cardboard, and no f*cks given.

GD