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Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
Holidays are here and family is getting together. You cant tell me you guys aren't ducking out to the shop/garage to get some things brewing for next year!
Myself, I have the rearend pulled apart once again and made the move to 35 spline axles, and finally moved to a spool.
Also changing over to manual brakes and further shaving weight, Wilwood drag brakes all the way around. Also finally adding the chute since it now will have the speed to back it up.
Making it easily concealable though since I want to hit some grudge drags and try to be kind of unassuming.........
Didn't want to be some ten second car with chute and wing looking like something its not.
Also at bare minimum I'm going to add a rear Anti roll bar and remove the stock rear sway.
Would like to do some front coil overs and maybe DA front shocks but we will see how it works out.
Right now it is just the 90/10's and trick front springs.
Anyone know the spring rate for the SBC moroso Trick springs off hand?
for the record the 31 spline moser axles held all season running mid to low nines with no signs of twist. But I will be upping the power next season and wanted to get something under it that I wasn't constantly worried about.
Hopefully even with the larger axles, the changing of the brakes and a few other items can net me another loss in weight.
Car weighed in at 2945 in race weight without me in it. Only thing not stock on body is the hood.
Sure would be nice to install optic armor all around, That would be sure to shave weight.
One project at a time lol
So lets hear it guys what's cooking for the new year of racing?
my 305 wouldn't make much of a race car BUT I am planning some work this year. I have the 273 open rear end and I'm planning a 342 limited slip and a throaty exhaust. wont really be faster but it will sound and feel like it is.
I am putting together an LS7 with a really nice H/C/I package that should be worth 600 RWHP all motor. I don't have a drag car but hoping it will tag 10s anyway. I'm going to have to become a better driver in the 60-foot though to make it happen.
Good idea for a thread.
Seems like it's one step forward (or two) with heads, cam, transmission and converter this year and two steps back with a new transmission crossmember needed (long story) and the requisite exhaust to fit around it. That was the plan up until a leakdown test showed a less than happy shortblock. Everything is at a standstill now as I price out a forged 383.
Could be 11 seconds if it all comes together.
Then again, I may jump ship entirely and go LS. I've come across a set of fresh LS7 heads and that would be a decent start for a conversion.
my 305 wouldn't make much of a race car BUT I am planning some work this year. I have the 273 open rear end and I'm planning a 342 limited slip and a throaty exhaust. wont really be faster but it will sound and feel like it is.
It's amazing what a set of gears will do for you! Makes everything else come alive.
Good idea for a thread.
Seems like it's one step forward (or two) with heads, cam, transmission and converter this year and two steps back with a new transmission crossmember needed (long story) and the requisite exhaust to fit around it. That was the plan up until a leakdown test showed a less than happy shortblock. Everything is at a standstill now as I price out a forged 383.
Could be 11 seconds if it all comes together.
Then again, I may jump ship entirely and go LS. I've come across a set of fresh LS7 heads and that would be a decent start for a conversion.
I totally understand that predicament. Mine has been a sbc nos car for the better part of 15 years but I am starting to think about a ls with turbo route. Just don't know if I really want to change the whole car over. It's either that or a fresh dart block is in my future.
Thinking about power braking these terrible kuhmos until the 305 blows so I have a reason to convince my wife it's time to drop my 5.3 in and better tires at the same time.
Sent the LS3 heads off to get freshened after 4 years and a good thing I did. Seems the exh guides were worn pretty good and need replacing....could this be the leak that only produced 3" of vacuum...? SPS Heads(Gavin) in Washington is making them pretty and updating the ports some and giving the seats a fresh 50 degree angle. I bought myself a set of Jesel Sportsman shaft rockers and sometime this year and I am going with a solid roller setup. Hydraulic roller valve train has served me well over the years but time to get a little more serious with the head update and let this boy breathe. No doubt 2018 will give me that 8.9x time slip that had eluded me in 2017
Sent the LS3 heads off to get freshened after 4 years and a good thing I did. Seems the exh guides were worn pretty good and need replacing....could this be the leak that only produced 3" of vacuum...? SPS Heads(Gavin) in Washington is making them pretty and updating the ports some and giving the seats a fresh 50 degree angle. I bought myself a set of Jesel Sportsman shaft rockers and sometime this year and I am going with a solid roller setup. Hydraulic roller valve train has served me well over the years but time to get a little more serious with the head update and let this boy breathe. No doubt 2018 will give me that 8.9x time slip that had eluded me in 2017
Well I recently swapped a 10 bolt for a strange s60 with 4.10s.
Now I am finishing up a roller cam conversion. Xr286r. 2 piece timing cover. Also I need to toss in my 4700 8 inch ptc stall that I've had for while. I just didn't have the right cam and heads at the time to use it. Also added a 2999 victor jr intake( has 1 inch spacer built in)
I also added some .027 mls head gaskets to compliment the 195 afr heads I got last fall.
Engine is still apart as I'm waiting for some new length pushrods for the cam conversion.
Once this all comes together in hoping for a 10.90s car (pro class) transbrake, 2step launch.
Last season was great. A engine I didn't think would barly run 12.50s made 11.60 passes every time. Xe 268 cam, old dart iron heads, 3.23 gears... it was just a greast combo for tq and the street also.
This season I'm aiming at being much quicker, having that higher hp band, and competing in pro so I can finally use my t brake and other electronics.
welp, short version is that i want to take some time this year to save $ for a badass 406, 421, or 434 gen 1 sbc with a Dart SHP block, forged internals, Holley Sniper EFi setup and a 200 wet shot.
in preperation, this winter I am going to be installing a 340lph aeromotive fuel pump with the wiring upgrade and the Holley Hydramat . Also Koni yellow struts and shocks, and getting my ProBuilt Automatics 700R4 repaired and upgraded to the 750 hp level. misc electrical wiring items, longer rear axle wheel studs, fluid changes, etc
Well I recently swapped a 10 bolt for a strange s60 with 4.10s.
Now I am finishing up a roller cam conversion. Xr286r. 2 piece timing cover. Also I need to toss in my 4700 8 inch ptc stall that I've had for while. I just didn't have the right cam and heads at the time to use it. Also added a 2999 victor jr intake( has 1 inch spacer built in)
I also added some .027 mls head gaskets to compliment the 195 afr heads I got last fall.
Engine is still apart as I'm waiting for some new length pushrods for the cam conversion.
Once this all comes together in hoping for a 10.90s car (pro class) transbrake, 2step launch.
Last season was great. A engine I didn't think would barly run 12.50s made 11.60 passes every time. Xe 268 cam, old dart iron heads, 3.23 gears... it was just a greast combo for tq and the street also.
This season I'm aiming at being much quicker, having that higher hp band, and competing in pro so I can finally use my t brake and other electronics.
That UMI Bar under there looks nice! That is what I have been looking to change over to. Clean looking install!
Always liked the runners on those AFR heads.
Get rid of those E-brake cables though lol extra weight.... j/k
welp, short version is that i want to take some time this year to save $ for a badass 406, 421, or 434 gen 1 sbc with a Dart SHP block, forged internals, Holley Sniper EFi setup and a 200 wet shot.
in preperation, this winter I am going to be installing a 340lph aeromotive fuel pump with the wiring upgrade and the Holley Hydramat . Also Koni yellow struts and shocks, and getting my ProBuilt Automatics 700R4 repaired and upgraded to the 750 hp level. misc electrical wiring items, longer rear axle wheel studs, fluid changes, etc
feel free to read my thread here and provide any input/advice you think I should consider, since I'll be ordering a bunch of items next week.
You installing the Hydramat into your factory tank? I have thought about doing this a lot! I will have to follow your build and check it out for sure! Very curious to see how the fueling works out. I have been thinking something like this would work well if I swapped to a boosted application.
On a plus side Dave over at Manualbrakes.com was great about me missing items and has the other parts in the mail....... Looks like I might be in for a hot rod sunday after all!
A engine I didn't think would barly run 12.50s made 11.60 passes every time. Xe 268 cam, old dart iron heads, 3.23 gears... it was just a greast combo for tq and the street also.
Curious about that build. Do you have thread with details?
Curious about that build. Do you have thread with details?
I didn't have a lot of stuff on my threads about the original 385 build as I bought the engine from a friend in a rush to start the 2017 season racing but here is a thread link of what I had before I starting changing out parts once the season was over.
Just read through your thread.
It's always interesting to see what it takes to go 11's. Considering the upgrades I posted earlier, it may be achievable if I can hold up your car as an example. I just won't be able to knock any weight out of it.
Just read through your thread.
It's always interesting to see what it takes to go 11's. Considering the upgrades I posted earlier, it may be achievable if I can hold up your car as an example. I just won't be able to knock any weight out of it.
Yea it's not terribly difficult to reach 11s anymore with all aftermarket parts out there. Heck 10s aren't too bad either with a 383+ ci engine in a thirdgen. The main thing is matching it all up correct. My build was a tq monster. My sweet spot was 3000-5500rpm and that's it. Now I've changed alot and it's going to be more like 4500-6500. Just make sure your cam, intake, heads, carb, converter even the static and dynamic comp ratio... exc is all matched up right. One over sized or undersized part will take away from it's potential.
It honestly amazed me how easy it was to dial mine into mid 11s with what I had. Exspecially the 3.23 gears and managing a sub 1.60 60 foot. Hopefully I get my current build right and can lay down some 10.90s give or take a few 10ths.
Remember the 60 foot is very important for fast times with a n/a engine. 60s will tell you alot about your set up and how well it is.
Thanks for the input.
You know, it's funny. My personal best 60' was a 1.71. Prior to that I'd been high 1.7/low 1.8 with a 3.73 gear. That broke (on my 1st ever 12 second pass) and I subbed in a 3.27. Then I went 1.71. Interesting how it all works.
And like you, my last build (albeit a 355), was designed more for torque than outright horsepower. Problem was, the rest of supporting parts were't matched. Peak HP was arguably about 5600-5700 and I'd cross the stripe just north of 5000. Needed converter too. My launches were barely 3000 (foot braking to 2000). Still I pulled off a 12.45 @ 109 so not too shabby for 3700 lbs.
Anyway, thanks to izcain for the loan of the thread. Like I said, it's a great idea for subject material.
Now to continue shopping for a 383. All forged, (2 pc RMS if possible as I've got parts for it, namely my Canton oil pan). Good solid parts to take on the open road events. I'll pay more for Callies or Lunati as opposed to some of the mid-priced brands as I can see sustained RPMs of 6000 or so for minutes at a time. So far, I like the Howards Maximum Effort shortblock. It's discontinued but there may still be a distributor out there that has inventory.
Thanks for the input.
You know, it's funny. My personal best 60' was a 1.71. Prior to that I'd been high 1.7/low 1.8 with a 3.73 gear. That broke (on my 1st ever 12 second pass) and I subbed in a 3.27. Then I went 1.71. Interesting how it all works.
And like you, my last build (albeit a 355), was designed more for torque than outright horsepower. Problem was, the rest of supporting parts were't matched. Peak HP was arguably about 5600-5700 and I'd cross the stripe just north of 5000. Needed converter too. My launches were barely 3000 (foot braking to 2000). Still I pulled off a 12.45 @ 109 so not too shabby for 3700 lbs.
Anyway, thanks to izcain for the loan of the thread. Like I said, it's a great idea for subject material.
Now to continue shopping for a 383. All forged, (2 pc RMS if possible as I've got parts for it, namely my Canton oil pan). Good solid parts to take on the open road events. I'll pay more for Callies or Lunati as opposed to some of the mid-priced brands as I can see sustained RPMs of 6000 or so for minutes at a time. So far, I like the Howards Maximum Effort shortblock. It's discontinued but there may still be a distributor out there that has inventory.
No problem, just nice to get some content and sharing back and forth. Gives us something to think about before the green light in a few months!
Working on the short time (60') is important for sure. So far I have only mustered a 1.44 but run out the back at 143 without turning the car up much. Hence why I was working on suspension and brakes this winter to get that stuff up to par.
As a side note it is worth every penny extra to give some of the reputable people in the business your money to gain an edge.
If you race a lot look at what some of the fast guys are running in their combo. At least that what I did.
For example, I called Induction solutions to flow and blueprint my Nitrous setup. Best money spent by far. Saved me countless hours and test hits getting the kit dialed in.
Same with the converter. One phone call to Lenny at Ultimate converter concepts and bam I had a converter that did exactly what we talked about wanting it to do.
Not to be putting plugs in on here. I just wanted to throw out some examples. There are a lot of awesome companies that have their own niche market and if you can tap into it, use it for your advantage.
Not saying that everything has to be special but if you look in some key areas on the car you will find a lot of extra in the combo! People that have been racing with me said my ride was pretty unassuming since it was on small tires and didn't look like it would turn the times it does.
Remember the 60 foot is very important for fast times with a n/a engine. 60s will tell you alot about your set up...
Originally Posted by izcain
Working on the short time (60') is important for sure.
Which reminds me. In so far as upgrades and in particular the 60' times, on my list are new drag tires. Sticking with the IROC 16" rim, I'm kind of limited. So far, IIRC, it's between the MT SS radial or in the bias-ply section, a Hoosier QTP.
I haven't decided although for the street, the radial is the most appealing. Driving on the MT ET Streets offered some interesting driving results when going to and from the track (I'm less than a 30 minute drive).
That said, and back to the 60', my best (12.45 @ 109) was with a 1.85 60' whereas the best 60 ever achieved had been 1.71.
Is what they say true, and that a tenth in the 60 is worth a couple of tenths at the stripe? Because to be able to rip off a 1.6x will get me awfully close to an 11 in my current package.
You installing the Hydramat into your factory tank? I have thought about doing this a lot! I will have to follow your build and check it out for sure! Very curious to see how the fueling works out. I have been thinking something like this would work well if I swapped to a boosted application.:
bummer, I got an email from Aeromotive saying they don't recomend using the hydramat with their 340 pump... so i wont be doing it
here is their email:
You may not run a Stealth 340 pump with a Hydramat, even if you could connect it, the turbine style pumping mechanism in the Stealth 340 pump cannot produce adequate vacuum to draw through the Hydramat. These style pumps need a flooded inlet to work well.
Which reminds me. In so far as upgrades and in particular the 60' times, on my list are new drag tires. Sticking with the IROC 16" rim, I'm kind of limited. So far, IIRC, it's between the MT SS radial or in the bias-ply section, a Hoosier QTP.
I haven't decided although for the street, the radial is the most appealing. Driving on the MT ET Streets offered some interesting driving results when going to and from the track (I'm less than a 30 minute drive).
That said, and back to the 60', my best (12.45 @ 109) was with a 1.85 60' whereas the best 60 ever achieved had been 1.71.
Is what they say true, and that a tenth in the 60 is worth a couple of tenths at the stripe? Because to be able to rip off a 1.6x will get me awfully close to an 11 in my current package.
Well every car is a bit different but I've noticed with mine that a tenth off the 60 is close to or not more then double up top. It's a good rule of thumb exspecially if you have the top end hp to back it up.
I run Mickey t 275 SS drag radials on a 15x10 rim. No issues hooking up but then again I'm just running high 1.50s. This spring when my new set up is rolling I hope to hit 1.50s or under. We shall see how well I hook up then.
Going to get started on my new car. I have the rolling chassis, I just need to get in touch with my cage builder. Hope to have the new car ready by summer. Really hope the old car survives that long!
If all goes to plan, new car, 350 to replace the 305, 700r4 upgrades, aluminum driveshaft, maybe a win, and top 5 in points.
Who's master cylinder is that? And what application?
To further my list, I'd like to complete my LS brake upgrade with a 4th gen master cylinder. I feel that braking performance is lacking somewhat with just the LS front and PBR/4th gen rears and a 3rd gen master. There is certainly a difference in the MC specs regarding primary/secondary bore diameters.
I didn't notice any difference swapping master cylinders. It's not a real expensive experiment to satisfy your curiosity, but don't be surprised if nothing improves. Only thing that brought in my rear PBR brakes was a Wilwood prop valve that allowed up to 100% line pressure pass-thru. I have the Wilwood almost maxed out. If I didn't have drag radials in the back then I would need less line pressure.
I remember your experiments with brake bias.
In my case, I'm not entirely certain which master cylinder I have. I've been through a few of these cars none of which had disc/disc and I ended up with a MC from one of them. I could be hopelessly out of whack. At one point while up on jack stands, I recall the rear brakes not working at all. That's since changed but I still have the question. I may go for an adjustable prop valve as you have.
This is a 1 1/8th bore. Guys over on the bullet were suggesting it since I am going to four piston wildwoods all the way around and need quite a bit of fluid to move. Brings the tires are a whole lot bigger on the rear then the front I would be fine with more rear braking then front.
I'm waiting on funds to free up so I can drop my ls in so in the meantime I picked up another set of crosslace wheels so I can run 4 front wheels. I have to refinish them and have striped the clear coat so now I'm sanding the outer lip down and thought I'd share my process. I'm fortunate to work as a mechanic and have access to our shop. I was turning rotors on the lathe an it hit me.
We are preparing the car for 2018 season and the Swedish answer to dragweek called Streetweek. We run on mostly unprepped 1/8 tracks for 5 days in a row Best thing that happened to the street/dragscene imo.
We're changing fuelpumps and converting to e85. Spining the procharger a bit faster. Fixing the th400. Some new aluminium pipes to the intercooler. Moving the procharger down an inch for hood clearance. Changing the shooks in front and put a set of coilovers in the rear etc
New coilovers and lcas from Spoon
New aem 400 fuelpumps to feed the engine with e85 for the first time
Almost time to bolt this bad boy on. It's a Garrett GTX4598R. Should be a SIGNIFICANT increase from the 4094/4294. Just needs to warm up a bit up here.
How well did the 4094 lite? I know in the duramax diesel world they complain of them being laggy compared to others. This is why I hung a Danville stage 2r Batmowheel 3794vgt on my Dmax.
Irocdanne, good job on the 5.93 thats getting with it pretty good!
How well did the 4094 lite? I know in the duramax diesel world they complain of them being laggy compared to others. This is why I hung a Danville stage 2r Batmowheel 3794vgt on my Dmax.
Irocdanne, good job on the 5.93 thats getting with it pretty good!
That sounds like a fun series.
It actually was fully spooled just shy of 3,000 RPM. The compressor is a bit small for my combo. It ran out of steam around 12 psi. The 80mm billet will be a huge upgrade.
How well did the 4094 lite? I know in the duramax diesel world they complain of them being laggy compared to others. This is why I hung a Danville stage 2r Batmowheel 3794vgt on my Dmax.
Irocdanne, good job on the 5.93 thats getting with it pretty good!
That sounds like a fun series.
Thanks!
It was the first time since 2014 the car was running and back then it went 9.20 1/4 and 5.88 1/8 with 1.32 60foot. But that was on a pretty good track.
Last summer it was about 6mph faster on the 1/8 so im pretty excited to see some 1/4 timeslips with it now Hopefully we can get an 8 out of it.
The Procharger is a F2 with 60/45 pulleys and Im thinking of getting a 38 pulley to the blower. With that it will see recommended max speed at about 7500rpm.
12-22-2017, 07:23 PM
j/k 
Best thing that happened to the street/dragscene imo.
