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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
I had a 3" pipe system w/ an open filter beneath the sheetmetal (behind fog light) and it was awesome. The company I got it from is still in business, but will not make anymore. Was $299.
I made mine from aluminum piping bought from Spectre. Looks like the same 90 and 45 bends hawk's has. It was a good bit less than $200, plus you can fine tune it to your specific needs.
Those pictured all draw hot under hood air. Cut the battery tray and put filter under, behind fog light (on TA) and it draws Cold Air. The one I’ve pictured, I installed in 1991, Worked very well
I like the silicon because it doesn't pick up as much heat off the upper radiator hose as the thin aluminum would, however it also heat soaks more and takes longer to cool if it does absorb heat off the radiator. Here is mine its a combination of parts, I started off with a ebay intake for an Escalade, but didn't like the cheap rubber boots. So the 90 degree reduces from the intake size to the MAF size in the 90 degree turn (amazon), the coupler from the MAF to the first straight pipe changes from the MAF size to the 4" (amazon) the next coupler came with the original kit, the 45 degree elbow was part of the original kit I cut down to fit. I had a much larger filter on the end from the original kit but ended up with a spectre filter (autozone) that has the outer cone as well as a inverted inner cone on the end so you have alot of filter area.
I need to get a different upper radiator hose or a small extension so I can pull my radiator hose closer to the radiator so its not touching the intake pipe. Ignore the heater hose... I'm not quite done there I'm installing AC right now and then will finalize the routing, but my engine is too close to run the hose down the back side of the engine so it looks like I will have to keep the eye sore. Also the wires in the back pass side I still need to finalize routing and loom them. I think I may paint the aluminum tubing and get someone to Tig on a flange I can bolt it to the wind shield washer tank (where the TBI intake screws on to it). I also want to make a filler panel to box it in so its not sucking hot air in (aluminum with some head shield). I have fuse boxes and the A.I.R. injection pump below the filter as I built it 100% 50 states smog legal... for now... I may remove the A.I.R. and EGR all together since I don't have to do emissions where I live. The IAT sensor I drilled a hole in the aluminum tubing and used the original bung from the donor car. Its on the back side (intentionally) so you don't see it.
LOL the flimsy rubber boot is in the bottom right of the picture.
Thats just a fresh air tube going to the pass. valve cover.Just plain ol rubber couplings on the ends.PCV is built into the manifold, OE connectors.
I have to do the same setup on my car but am not sure how to get the fresh air tube connected to the 4" aluminum intake pipe. Do you have a pic or further explanation?
I know everyone always says "hot underhood air temps" but has anyone ever logged actual under hood air temps (in different locations under hood) from 0-100 mph? I'm not talking IATs but ambient temps and if/how they change through say 1/4 mile? There has to be some decent air moving through there.
I have to do the same setup on my car but am not sure how to get the fresh air tube connected to the 4" aluminum intake pipe. Do you have a pic or further explanation?
Heres a close up, dont have another pic.I just welded a 90* elbow form an old ac line.
I know everyone always says "hot underhood air temps" but has anyone ever logged actual under hood air temps (in different locations under hood) from 0-100 mph? I'm not talking IATs but ambient temps and if/how they change through say 1/4 mile? There has to be some decent air moving through there.
On other vehicles, I've seen the data. Corvettes, specifically. One airbag test from years ago illustrated this fact when the "gains" on an open element filter assy. on the dyno lost nearly all gained once the hood was closed. The airbag which grabbed air from outside the engine compartment, kept its gains. Hood up or down, didn't affect that one.
so it looks like my 4" intake that I ordered isn't going to work out, mostly because I am using the truck alternator/ps pump and an adapter bracket which limits the space where all of you have ran your intake. using the intake as pictured will hit the hood. routing the opposite direction will hit the battery. My remaining options are:
1. put the MAF and filter right off of the 90 going towards passenger side
2. run a TPI air intake
I’m using the truck brackets too and haven’t bought an air intake yet. I was worried about this issue and was thinking maybe 3.5 would provide a little clearance.
Whatever you do post it it up because I’m basically done with my swap except for air intake.
decided to relocate battery to drivers side and run the CAI to the passenger side. To do this I will need a longer positive battery cable, however the factory negative cable works just fine on the driver side. mock up below
While not an LS, I relo'd my battery just like you.
I was worried about this issue and was thinking maybe 3.5 would provide a little clearance.
....I'd really want to keep it 4" if possible. I think anything less (on any moderate performance engine) and the tube becomes a restriction, and negates the benefit of lower temps. I'm no engineer, but I've read a few different tests that show this to be the case. Below 4"....might as well run an open element.
I bought the Hawks 4" CAI because I was in a hurry and wanted something "plug and play". It works like its suppose to. I don't like it. You can see its not a perfect fit either. I never figured out how they expect you to use the mounting hardware so it just lays on the upper radiator hose absorbing heat. I don't plan on keeping this long term. I plan to get a one piece intake tube that fits/looks/functions better, utilizes an LS7 MAF, and insulate it but it's my understanding I'll have to retune for the different MAF.
11-15-2018, 06:53 PM
.....but yes....actually UNDER is the logical next step. 
