Car keeps dying?
06-15-2019, 10:17 AM
#1
Car keeps dying?
Okay this may be a little confusing but a few weeks ago my 91RS Died and I had to keep jumping it to get home so I figured out the charging system wasn’t holding up I replaced the alternator and I have a new battery a few days ago the same problem again I don’t have any sound accessories like amps and stuff like that my car is very bare bones so I’m not sure what can possibly be draining the cars electrical power any ideas?
06-15-2019, 11:26 AM
#2
Re: Car keeps dying?
Okay this may be a little confusing but a few weeks ago my 91RS Died and I had to keep jumping it to get home so I figured out the charging system wasn’t holding up I replaced the alternator and I have a new battery a few days ago the same problem again I don’t have any sound accessories like amps and stuff like that my car is very bare bones so I’m not sure what can possibly be draining the cars electrical power any ideas?
06-15-2019, 11:55 AM
#3
Re: Car keeps dying?
When it begins the car will shut off like just poof magic oh it’s done I try to crank it up nothing just completely dead let it sit for a while the accessories work fine voltage gauge reads 14 but won’t crank without a jump eventually it will go back down to 0 when I do jump the car it will drive but it will struggle for power like as if the engine is misfiring or choking itself for ignition when it starts to die again then poof again it’s dead
06-15-2019, 02:11 PM
#5
Re: Car keeps dying?
When it begins the car will shut off like just poof magic oh it’s done I try to crank it up nothing just completely dead let it sit for a while the accessories work fine voltage gauge reads 14 but won’t crank without a jump eventually it will go back down to 0 when I do jump the car it will drive but it will struggle for power like as if the engine is misfiring or choking itself for ignition when it starts to die again then poof again it’s dead
I'm no expert but I do believe when turning the key to the starting position and all you get is clicks I was told to troubleshoot battery / starter & associated connections.
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06-16-2019, 11:37 AM
#9
Re: Car keeps dying?
Maybe? You could always pull it and have it tested at a local parts store but I would check EVERYTHING else (ie, Loose/Broken/Corroded Battery cables or connections or blown fusible links) before going for starter removal. There's an active thread on how to remove the starter w/out removing exhaust components and it doesn't seem easy imo.
06-17-2019, 03:45 PM
#10
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Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Drain Pain
Due to the fact it was running but you could not restart it seconds later, you have more than a typical drain problem.
Check for poor connections starting from the battery + terminal until you get to the ▬ terminal.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Normally with the engine off you should see about 12 volts.
With the engine just being started you should see 14 volts or more.
After warm-up you should see 13 volts minimum.
If you don’t know the accuracy of the in-dash voltmeter you should use a separate test-quality one.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
You can connect a voltmeter across the M terminal of the starter and battery▬.
Make the leads long enuff to take the voltmeter into the cockpit.
Under normal circumstances, when cranking you will see about 9 volts on the meter.
On the occasions the starter fails to crank note the voltage.
The voltage will tell you what direction to turn.
If it’s about 12 while you are trying to crank, but the starter is not turning - the problem is in the starter.
If it’s under 8 while trying to crank - the problem is a weak battery or excessive resistance in the starting circuit.
Therefore if it is in the starting circuit you can move the probe you applied to terminal M at the starter, to the positive terminals at the solenoid, then keep moving up the line till the problem shows itself VIA increased voltage.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing !
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Slamming The Wall Is Not The Neatest Way To Remove An Engine
Check for poor connections starting from the battery + terminal until you get to the ▬ terminal.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Normally with the engine off you should see about 12 volts.
With the engine just being started you should see 14 volts or more.
After warm-up you should see 13 volts minimum.
If you don’t know the accuracy of the in-dash voltmeter you should use a separate test-quality one.
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
You can connect a voltmeter across the M terminal of the starter and battery▬.
Make the leads long enuff to take the voltmeter into the cockpit.
Under normal circumstances, when cranking you will see about 9 volts on the meter.
On the occasions the starter fails to crank note the voltage.
The voltage will tell you what direction to turn.
If it’s about 12 while you are trying to crank, but the starter is not turning - the problem is in the starter.
If it’s under 8 while trying to crank - the problem is a weak battery or excessive resistance in the starting circuit.
Therefore if it is in the starting circuit you can move the probe you applied to terminal M at the starter, to the positive terminals at the solenoid, then keep moving up the line till the problem shows itself VIA increased voltage.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing !
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Slamming The Wall Is Not The Neatest Way To Remove An Engine
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