jonny_sanchez99

Finally got around to swap the old lb9 and install a 355 Holley stealth ram and now the car won't start. It has spark since the timing light goes off and the timing is set right on at tdc. Made sure to connect one ground behind the passenger side head and also the ground on the driver side head as well and also the last ground on the front passenger head. Now the car cranks perfectly fine and has oil pressure but won't start
Any help as soon as possible would be very much appreciated

Does the coil need to be grounded as well?

jonny_sanchez99

After cranking every once in a while I get a pop but then it stops and does it again after a while but it still doesn't want to start.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Do you have the pressure and return lines correctly hooked up ?
injector pulse ?
Timing 180 out ?

jonny_sanchez99

I'm starting to believe it might have to do with fuel pressure because if I prime the motor multiple times before starting it will pop but only once I'm thinking that the regulator might not be holding the pressure

Drew

iTrader: (58)

How sure are you that the valves are set right, and the distributor is dropped right? If a person follows the 'book' method of setting valve lash, it's pretty easy to end up with a few valves adjusted open. When that happens you get an engine that barely wants to run. If you install a timing chain with the dot on both gears closest together, and don't turn the engine a full turn to bring the cam dot to the top before dropping the distributor, you'll end up 180* out and the engine will barely run. It's easy enough to verify the distributor position, pull #1 plug, put finger over the plug hole, roll the engine over until you feel pressure, keep going until you hit 0* on the timing mark, then drop the distributor with the rotor pointing to #1.

jonny_sanchez99

Found the problem it turned out that the return fuel line was connected to the back of the fuel rail on the Holley stealth fuel rails bypassing the regulator since it had been plugged up so I switched the line to the plugged regulator and now she fired right up but now I set the timing to 6 degrees before tdc and made sure to unplug the connector by the AC stuff when setting the timing. Now it's running but is very very rough and only stays on with the throttle partly open but then shuts off if I close the throttle body and the engine shakes pretty badly. I can also hear a loud whistle coming from the throttle body as well and also when I put the stock dual air filters it shuts off the engine.im not sure what could be the problem to smooth it out. I have a custom chip burned for the combo as well. I made previous post about my whole setup and just now got around to putting it in the car. At first I thought it was the cam but it's not too big of a cam it's a xr276hr but yet it shakes the whole car.

Any help would be much appreciated.

jonny_sanchez99

It is also making a poping sound out the back aswell

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I suspect the whistle sound is the iac.
especially if you have a bbk tb they are noticeably louder than a stock tb.
You might want to datalog to see how your fuel trim. Unless the tuner has tuned the exact combination the tune will be off.
Double check valve lash and firing order then move onto the tune.

jonny_sanchez99

When I adjusted the valve train it was on the engine stand. I made sure to set cylinder 1 to tdc and made sure to cover the spark hole with my finger till I felt pressure unitl the timing Mark was set to zero and adjusted the valve to a 1/4 after for the preload. Then I followed the following order and did 1/4 preload for the rest aswell. The car orginally came with a tuned port injection lb9 whitch ran great before I pulled the engine. I used the same computer for the Holley stealth ram on the new engine since it's basically a tuned port aswell just flows better than the stock tpi intake. I have a mail order chip specifically for the combo of my build.
I have double checked the wires in case I missed one up on accident but everything looks good.
The thing that confuses me is that the old engine ran really good before the swap and now the throttle body is whistling pretty bad. I'm not sure if I connected all the vacuum lines correctly the only vacumm line I'm not sure is the one under the throttle body right next to the thermostat that is the only line that is not connected to anything.

jonny_sanchez99

I used the same throttle body that was on the old engine aswell. Could it be that the iac needs adjusting because it is running pretty rough and shakes the whole car. And also if I close the throttle all the way it will shut the car off .

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The nipple under the tb can be blocked off. This use to supply the egr solenoid.

jonny_sanchez99

Alright I'ma make sure to block that nipple off and I also removed cylinder plugs 1 and 2 and they are both very black. Could it be a timing issue or lean or rich ?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

What size injectors are you running ?
The rich running condition could be the mail order tunes fault.
Have you tried to run the old 305 tune to see how it runs?

jonny_sanchez99

Yes I tried to run the stock 305 tune and it didn't seem to make a difference at all. The car still was shaking very badly. And now it doesn't even wanna start no more I'm starting to think maybe it's a igntion problem cause the timing light dosent get a signal anymore. I'm thinking there is a missfire causing it to shake very badly when it was running.

jonny_sanchez99

Stock Corvette 22lb an hour

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

You might want to use a spark tester to check for spark.
If the plugs are real fuel fouled they will not produce sufficient spark and will need to be changed.
excessive running rich can wash the cylinder walls and your rings will not seat.

jonny_sanchez99

Now the car doesn't seem to start at all. The timing light isn't picking up a signal anymore on wire 1. What confuses me is that before the swap the 305 ran. Great and now it's running pretty bad I'm thinking of replacing the injectors, wires and coil. I don't wanna keep running it rich I'm afraid of damaging the Pistons since it has zero miles.it has good fuel pressure but not sure what could be causeing all the issues now.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Do you have a way to install a fuel pressure test port ?
like using a adapter like this ?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/anm-01800001465
so you can see if the injectors are bleeding off fuel pressure.

jonny_sanchez99

I'm installing a fuel pressure gauge very soon when I finish installing I will have a update on the fuel pressure.

jonny_sanchez99

Fuel pressure looks good ! Now the car still won't start after I replaced the distributor rotor, ignition control module, coil. When I connect the timing light it's not picking up any spark from any wire.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

It could be a bad pickup coil

https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4...ed-icm-tests-1

jonny_sanchez99

The distributor isn't that old I bought it new for the old motor about half a year ago. Do you think something could've taken it out? And something I noticed when the car was actually running was when I started it and was running really rough I forgot the connection the map sensor vacuum line but do y'all think this could've caused the misfire and rough idle and black smoke just because the vacuum line wasn't connected?

jonny_sanchez99

Would the fouled spark plug cause no spark to run through the spark plug wire resulting in the timing light not picking up any signal

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

If you don’t have spark at the plugs you won’t see your timing light strobe.
so yes if the plugs are fouled no spark. I think with the map unplugged from a vacuum source the engine will run richer.

jonny_sanchez99

I cleaned up cylinder 1 spark plug and she started firing now it's time to clean the rest of the plugs and she should fire right up and thank you very much hopefully the map being plugged in fixes the rich issue.tommorw I will try it again and keep you posted.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I wouldn’t expect the map being plugged in to totally cure the rich running condition.
I think you will have to work on your volumetric efficiency in the tune. Or buy a dynamic efi ebl p4 and tune it that way.

jonny_sanchez99

Got the engine started with new spark plugs but it's running the same way. It has a very high idle and is also whistling out the front of the throttle body and the engine speeds up on it's own. But one thing I've noticed is the fuel pressure is at 40 psi before starting it up and once I start the engine it drops to 35. But I'm afraid to run it long because I don't wanna foul the spark plugs again. I'm starting to think that I didn't connect the Holley stealth ram vaumm lines correctly so what I'ma do is try the old injectors from the 305 tpi since they are 19 # but I know they are good injectors to see how the engine runs with them to rule out if the injectors are bad before buying a new set.what do y'all think could be the problem ?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Good test to swap injectors, then maybe look for vacuum leaks

jonny_sanchez99

Bad news so the injectors did absolutely nothing at all the motor is still running rough and is speeding up in rpms by itself... I been switched the chip to the old motor to see if it made a difference and nothing. Any idea what could be wrong with it ?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Do you think one of the plenum gaskets could have been damaged upon install?

jonny_sanchez99

I don't think so I was pretty careful installing the gasket to insure it seaedl correctly. What could cause the rpms to suddenly go up ?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

My first thought was a vacuum leak causing the high idle.
now I’m not sure what direction to point you in. The 19#hr injectors and prom should of leaned out the engine.

jonny_sanchez99

Right now I'm using the 19# injectiors cause I'm afraid to foul the sparknplugs. I'm going to switch all the vacuum lines to new ones does anyone have a diagram for vacumm lines for the hsr? I'm thinking maybe I connected some wrong when I installed the hsr.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

You should only need three lines. Both manifold vacuum. One for the map and one for hvac . One more for the vacuum to the brake booster.

jonny_sanchez99

So the car is running alot better than where I started now the only problem left is the whistle and the idle. The whistle is still pretty loud at idle and has a high idle still but the car seems to be running better I replaced all the wires and vacumm hoses. There are 3 fittings on the back and one is a sensor.

1st nipple : I connected it to the charcoal canister.
2nd nipple: goes a check valve that splits into a two way with one side going to the map sensor and the hvac and the other side goes to the fuel pressure regulator.
3rd nipple: goes to the brake booster.
I'm not sure what vacuum line could be wrong since I sprayed them all with carb cleaner and the motor didn't speed up or anything at all.
And another thing I noticed was when I shut the car off a little smoke comes out from the throttle body.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The ccp goes to the tb, not sure if you have the map and hvac connected but the map should have its own dedicated signal.

jonny_sanchez99

This second one goes to a check valave the splits into the fuel regulator and also another T that connects the map and hvac to it as well

This is the map sensor

This is from throttle body to the charcoal canister

I plugged the nipple under the throttle body

This line goes to the Cruse control on the driver's side next to the charcoal cansiter

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

You might want to share the hvac and cruise so the map has its own signal.

Fred SS

iTrader: (3)

I think you have your MAP sensor vacuum line hooked up wrong. The MAP sensor must be hooked up directly to the plenum. You have it hooked to the HVAC vacuum line downstream from the check valve (the round black thing in your picture).

jonny_sanchez99

I'ma switch it tonight when I get home. Do you think that is what is causing the whistling out the throttle body?

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

The whistling might be normal the iac noise. Amplified if you have a air foil.

jonny_sanchez99

I've also noticed that I mixed up the line that goes from the passenger side valve cover to the tb. I accidentally connected it to the 2nd nipple instead of the top one and the line that goes to the canister to the top nipple instead of the second one. Do you think this could be causing the whistle aswell? It's pretty loud at idle and it goes away when I give it gas.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

That is just a crank case breather, I don’t think it would cause a whistle.

jonny_sanchez99

Update on the car. I'm getting code 44 now I'm not sure if it's because it's running lean or if the O2 sensor is bad. But I have fixed all the vacumm lines and now the map has its own vacuum port.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I would suspect it’s because your still running 19#hr injectors.
The code should only throw once closed loop is available. Engine warmed up and o2 starts to swing.
change to the 22#hr injectors and see how it runs.

jonny_sanchez99

That is Correct tommorow first thing is I'ma change the injectors to 22# and see if the code goes away and I'm also going to try to start the engine without the belt to see if the squeeking sound stops because I already switched the throttle body and the sound was still there so I'm thinking it might be a pully or a belt. One thing that I'm suspecting could be is when I installed the headers on the new motor I didn't install the support bars that connects from one of the header bolts to ac compressor and the same thing on the other side with the alternator. Maybe this could be causing the squeek at idle I tried to take it around the neighborhood but the sound is just unbearable.

jonny_sanchez99

So I removed the belt and the car keep whistling so that rules out the belt and any pulley aswell. It sounds like it's directly from th throttle body I'm not sure what else it could be ? Any ideas ? I already re ran all the vacuum lines aswell.

Fred SS

iTrader: (3)

Jonny, I doubt if the noise is being caused by lack of the support bars for the accessories. Even GM says in their instructions for their serpentine belt kit that a couple of the braces are not necessary. I have a BBK 52mm TB on my TPI swap. I have a loud sucking noise at startup. The noise winds down after about 5 minutes. I have not datalogged it during that timeframe, but I suspect that it has something to do with open loop vs closed loop and the IAC.

jonny_sanchez99

Update on the car, Freddy your are correct it wasn't the brakets, I found the source of the loud whistle it turns out the top part of the Holly stealth ram that bolts up to the intake wasn't sealing correctly so I re sealed it and now the whistle is gone. Now all that is left it to adjust the valves while the motor is running because I'm getting alot of valve train noise. I installed the 22# injectors and the car is running alot smoother just had a high idle but I'm sure I can't adjust ivac to bring it down.

Thank you everyone that has helped.

Fred SS

iTrader: (3)

Great that you found the problem. Congrats.