AlkyIROC

Owner of another truck repair shop was at ours today. He found out I had a 9 second race car. I showed him some pictures I have on my work computer and a youtube video. He wanted to buy it and asked how much I want for it.

I told him the engine is worth around $20,000 so I figure the whole car would be worth at least $45,000. Probably worth a lot more than that but it's not a show car, just a gutted out race car.

He wanted to know if I would take $35,000. That's probably the best offer I could ever get for it. As much as I hate doing it, I turned him down.

Passmenow

Couple years ago I countered on a good Ebay buy it now offer.
Sale fell through.
The next couple of years with the Camaro were my best ever.
And now it needs a few bucks in mechanical service.
So I'm happy to still have mine too.

skinny z

I suppose it depends entirely on what you're racing targets are and how you want to get there.
That said, for $35k, I think you could a build another decent race car. Sometimes it's not a bad thing to start fresh.

AlkyIROC

If I did, I would go straight to a tube chassis car. Trying to make a production car into a fast race car is more expensive.

Beeman

$35K?? I would walk away at the track and they could keep the car,enclosed trailer and my truck! 3rd gens don't bring much money around here. A backhalf 3rd gen might be lucky to fetch 10k. There's a nice roller for sale for 4k.

skinny z

Define fast....

AlkyIROC

It all has to do with power to weight. My stripped down production car is still around 3000 pounds with a full cage. A tube chassis car can easily get into the 2400 pound range. Less weight means you need less HP to go fast.

You can make a dragster with a street engine and run 10 seconds all day long without needing all the SFI stuff, license etc and the street engine is very low maintenance.

skinny z

True enough.
On the other hand it's a lot easier than it used to be regarding power output. Case in point is the 67 Chevelle in our "fleet" that's touched on 10.99 and is totally 100% streetable. It actually just got back from this years power tour and ran flawlessly. That's with TB style F/I and an automatic making a dynoed 625 CHP with the 454LSX. Throw in some cylinder heads and a cam and mid 10's are happening. Full body/interior and heavy at 3700 lbs.
Cost though is something else again. That's a $20-25 000 drive train (depending on how you slice it) so there's not lot left over from $35 000 to build a 3rd gen, Still though, you can see where I'm going. Back at the old Ontario shop, tube chassis cars were the norm for the longest time but I couldn't say what it costs to build one today. I'm not sure even 20k would get you a complete roller.

Passmenow

Agree and working on a tube chassis car with quickly removable body and interior panels makes servicing the race car much easier.
In the past I had production based race cars kept street legal and registered/insured, back then a dual purpose street/race car was the goal.
You might like smaller front tires and brakes on your 1/4 mile version.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

passmenow, any idea where i could source some bbs wheels like that? i need a set for my gta so i can adjust the offset in the rear. (need 10" wide with 3.5" backspace)

Passmenow

I've been looking for BBS basket weave centers off and on for a few years, no luck.
My 4th gen needs a spare set too, and BBS does not make the basket weave centers anymore.
BBS sells the hardware, wheel stickers and new shells any offset.
They make a nice looking and pricey lobster fork wheel now.

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

When I quit racing in 1978 a Butler built tube chassis car was $30K
Motors were going for $50K
I wouldn't want to ask what today's price is (Butler was hot ticket then)

cuisinartvette

Some have no idea what it costs to build a car
Best offer I got on mine was 25 and lucky for that
Rest ranged from 10-15...almost 10 yrs and six figures into a basic st cruiser. It staying with me til the end.
What id give to be able to afford a 400ci+SB2.2 or at least anice 18 deg build

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

35k for your car? yes, you should have sold it...

skinny z

While I don't have 6 figures invested in mine, I can relate to hanging on. That said, if the day comes and I'm not permitted to drive any longer (legally anyway), I'd consider liquidating the asset. I figure I'd get more for it than anyone else or my "estate" trying to unload it. At least that's my thinking now while I still have most of my faculties!