UltRoadWarrior9

I've gotten in a mini starter today from eBay to put on my engine build. I've already put one on the IROC and it's been performing very nicely, with everything stock in the engine bay currently.

For my 383, 11:1 compression engine build, I've chosen another one of these starters. The notched end clears the Moroso oil pan. The starter mount itself is 3.125", so I was about to order 4.25" long ARP 12 point bolts with a 3/8" wrench head. Are bolts this long with a high torque starter safe? Or should I use studs? If I do use studs, I would have to remove the passenger side header if I had to ever replace the starter.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

That weak-sauce ebay mini-starter isn't going to require studs. My $600 Meziere starter came with ARP bolts included and is certified to start 750+ cubes. If bolts are good enough for that starter, then I'm 110% positive that dinky little bugger isn't going to tax even that factory bolts. And it may have trouble with an 11:1 383.

GD

UltRoadWarrior9

After abit of experimenting, since I had a few 3/8-16 ARP head studs lying around, I decided to check clearances and try installing/removing the mini-starter with the header bolts only backed out about 3/4". These are 1" UHL (under head length) header bolts. The ARP studs have hex fittings on the ends which aids in install/removal.I had to remove the outer stud only, move the header out of the way and twist the starter out, and back in.... I'm using studs for running this engine on the stand, I'll order the 4.25" ARP bolts for when I install the engine in the car. Thanks GD.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Hell i used an lt1 starter and stock bolts on my 383 11:1 no issue. Mini starter with bolts on my 10:1 555

UltRoadWarrior9

K, thanks for the input guys. I knew it would be educational, for me at least...
I was just trying to avoid ordering more parts. I'm gathering a nice collection of ARP bolts, studs and washers. These bolts aren't available till September anyway. At last I can crank this beast soon using the studs, which I have on hand!

UltRoadWarrior9

Oh, last question: Any dowel pins needed? The outside thread on this 880 block is recessed for some reason.

skinny z

I was under the impression that starter bolts are specific in nature. The knurl that's evident on the bolt is there to register the starter securely is it not?
This is also why the block threads don't finish right at the starter deck surface. The knurl fits into the gap (or recess) between the end of the thread and machined face.

UltRoadWarrior9

SkinnyZ, great point there thanks for adding that detail!

I have more issues. This starter isn't going to work. Several clearance problems, the motor is too long, the mounting block is too wide and the teeth don't even lineup with the flywheel! Maybe I can use this starter on my 1999 Suburban, it has an 880 block.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I have used a Vortec starter and 168 tooth truck flex plate to crank a 13:1 406. I used the stock 350 Vortec starter from my 99 Tahoe on the 8.1 496 I swapped into it and at 130K miles (10K cranking the 8.1) it still spins it over with ease.

AlkyIROC

I gave up on the aftermarket mini starters. I broke 2 of the Powermaster 9500XS starters. Not worth the extra money.

I now use an Vortec style mini starter. Pick them up from the local auto wrecker much cheaper than new and still get a 1 year warranty. If you're lucky, you might even find a new one on a wrecked car. One of my header tubes is dimpled to clear the outside starter bolt and I need to loosen off 2 of the header tubes to move the tubes out of the way to get the starter bolt out.

OEM starter cranks over my 15:1 BBC just fine.

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Just chop of the corner of the block if it hits the headers.

UltRoadWarrior9

Nah, it's insanely in the way of these headers, I'm returning the ministarter.

Been doing some research in the exhaust section on the eBay cheap longtube thread. I think I'm going with a 1996 LT1 corvette starter.

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

If you can return I'd do it. I have that same version but proform makes it. It fits the engine very well. Hope it turns out. That a good price.

UltRoadWarrior9

Thanks. Rockauto has a Remy, brand new similar price, but +shipping... Having a dilemma now. I have a 153-tooth flexplate. Will it work? It's not spec'd anywhere. I posed the question on Summit's site where I linked too, but no answer yet.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

It should work with the 153 as LT1’s like L98’s used 153’s.

UltRoadWarrior9

Thanks Orr!

I got in starter bolts from Summit for the Corvette LT1 starter, which does clear the Long Tube headers very nicely at first glance. I have another issue with the flexplate which I'll post on the 383 build thread to keep this on-topic. I'll post a pic later, after I mount the starter and header.

Dorman starter bolts
Summit part# RNB-45640... $5.99

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

You'll like the lt1 starter. works great on my 383 and has a decent amount of clearance with my dyno dons headers.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Yep, my stock starter fires up my LT1 just fine and its about 11:1.

UltRoadWarrior9

Just a few pics to finish the thread. Thx for all the input!




Manufacturer: Remy New

IROCZ1989

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