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So, I am going to look at a IROC in my area this weekend. It's a very good looking car from the images, White and Red 87 with the 5.7 700r4 hardtop. It has maintenance documentation, new injectors, good tires and it's a native NM car so none of that snow and salt crap tearing up the bottom, the body, paint and interior look amazing from the pics plus it seems to be all original and unmolested, garage kept and driven granny style. asking is a tick over 8 grand... But there is one issue...
She has 170Kish mileage.
Now, I know it's a 350, and I know the 700 is a good tranny... but man. I have never had a car with that many miles.
Now, I have daily drivers (and this would be a project/weekend cruiser for now), my plan would be to do a full engine rebuild regardless of the mileage and maybe massage the girl to a torqy 300-320 HP, and later rebuild the trans with some shift reworks. Nothing huge.
keep looking man, you can find one of these cars for a lot less. if it's gonna be a project car then maybe try finding a roller or one with a blown trans, all the money saved can go to a rebuilt engine or trans.
keep looking man, you can find one of these cars for a lot less. if it's gonna be a project car then maybe try finding a roller or one with a blown trans, all the money saved can go to a rebuilt engine or trans.
Thanks bro, I'll go look at it anyway, but it seems like that makes more sense.
High mileage is only scary if it was obviously abused. My pickup has over 200K miles on it and still runs like it was new. The only thing I've had to replace on it was wheel bearings and brakes.
That being said, you're probably going to be replacing all of the wear parts in your quest for performance anyways. The price is high, but they're likely just starting high because they know the process of negotiation. If they balk at your offer, show them examples of cars with less miles in similar condition at a more reasonable price. I've printed out ads before and brought them with when the folks sounded like they didn't want to play ball over the phone. Don't be afraid to point out defects or half-*** repairs. They're expecting you to try and jimmy them down, but you've got to make a case for it too.
If the car is in fantastic shape $6k might be a good price to talk them to. $8k is only if it's mint at that point.
But I wouldn't rule it out as a purchase at all.
That many miles isn't scary. It's actually low for a car about 30 years old.
There's a lot of wiggle room when it comes to price negotiation. If the car has been well taken care of general maintenance wise, you should be just fine.
Doing a full rebuild of the engine and transmission like you mentioned would basically eliminate any potential issues there. As long as the body and frame are straight/free of defects and the electrics check out, it would could be a solid car.
There's a lot of wiggle room when it comes to price negotiation. If the car has been well taken care of general maintenance wise, you should be just fine.
Doing a full rebuild of the engine and transmission like you mentioned would basically eliminate any potential issues there. As long as the body and frame are straight/free of defects and the electrics check out, it would could be a solid car.
Well, i will let you guys know what I find! I do really like it, although my wife is not a fan lol
High mileage is only scary if it was obviously abused. My pickup has over 200K miles on it and still runs like it was new. The only thing I've had to replace on it was wheel bearings and brakes.
That being said, you're probably going to be replacing all of the wear parts in your quest for performance anyways. The price is high, but they're likely just starting high because they know the process of negotiation. If they balk at your offer, show them examples of cars with less miles in similar condition at a more reasonable price. I've printed out ads before and brought them with when the folks sounded like they didn't want to play ball over the phone. Don't be afraid to point out defects or half-*** repairs. They're expecting you to try and jimmy them down, but you've got to make a case for it too.
If I were selling a vehicle and someone came with a bunch of other ads, I'd suggest they go buy one of those vehicles instead. Really, that's even a tactic? That, and negotiation over the phone? Click, bye.
194K Miles on mine. BUT... all my miles.I wouldn't be afraid to drive it across the country!
Agree on the one you are looking at though. For the money, you can get a lesser mileage car. Good luck!
If I were selling a vehicle and someone came with a bunch of other ads, I'd suggest they go buy one of those vehicles instead. Really, that's even a tactic? That, and negotiation over the phone? Click, bye.
It's probably a regional thing. It's a relatively normal thing around here. Typically we drive a long way to take a look at cars and such, and often in adverse conditions. We don't want to stand around negotiating for 2 hours when its -20 outside.
If you're that offended of being provided proof that you're overpriced (since they never believe you when you tell them) or because I ask if the price is negotiable over the phone, then I probably wouldn't want to buy from you anyways. Saves us both some time.
Aside from that, the only reason it's even a thing is because everyone thinks their rusty garbage is worth gold around here.
It's probably a regional thing. It's a relatively normal thing around here. Typically we drive a long way to take a look at cars and such, and often in adverse conditions. We don't want to stand around negotiating for 2 hours when its -20 outside.
I understand what you are saying, but if you haven't come over and seen my vehicle, why would I care to negotiate an arbitrary point? You didn't like my price, therefore you need to knock it down? Sorry, click.
Must be a regional thing, but I've traveled to many states, and would not insult someone by dickering on the price without being there to see the vehicle. Heck, how would one, as a seller, even know if you were serious without being there? I wouldn't.
It's probably a regional thing. It's a relatively normal thing around here. Typically we drive a long way to take a look at cars and such, and often in adverse conditions. We don't want to stand around negotiating for 2 hours when its -20 outside.
If you're that offended of being provided proof that you're overpriced (since they never believe you when you tell them) or because I ask if the price is negotiable over the phone, then I probably wouldn't want to buy from you anyways. Saves us both some time.
Aside from that, the only reason it's even a thing is because everyone thinks their rusty garbage is worth gold around here.
Makes sense, but when I'm actually selling gold and get this it's insulting and not worth MY time.
Many sides to this coin.
NO MATTER WHAT, don't question my price over the phone. If you want to talk about it or see extra pics before you travel, that's fine. I don't accept payment if not in person, so why even talk about it prior?
I understand your points, too. But, if I'm looking at 10 photos on Craigslist I can get a pretty good idea what condition the car is in. And just about everyone lists their cars way higher than what they'll actually take for it. Asking if there's wiggle room (not actually haggling) to know if I'm driving 4 hours for nothing is worth it in my opinion.
I understand your points, too. But, if I'm looking at 10 photos on Craigslist I can get a pretty good idea what condition the car is in. And just about everyone lists their cars way higher than what they'll actually take for it. Asking if there's wiggle room (not actually haggling) to know if I'm driving 4 hours for nothing is worth it in my opinion.
While it's reasonable to ask, "are you negotiable", prior to making the trip, it sounded like you were doing more than that upfront and without seeing the car.
Also, pictures show the very best of what someone wants you to see. 10 pictures, or more, are never enough to make a decision. See the vehicle in person, never at night, and never in the rain. Hopefully this exchange we're having now is of help to someone new at buying / selling vehicles.
My price changes with interest. If there's none, I lower it. If nobody actually comes to see it I lower it. If I start getting serious traffic I know I'm priced right.
If everybody did this, there would be no problems.
If you're unwilling to drive and they're unwilling to give you information you request or more pictures prior to a drive then it's either not worth your time or you're not worth theirs. Take it as a sign and move on regardless of the side you're on.
If I was not interested I would not even waste your time. I do not even start talking money till I am pretty sure that it's "the car". And we can go from there. At that point we either hit a price were I feel I payed just a bit to much, and he feels I paid just a bit to little... but we are both basically happy.
That said, I will walk away from anything that I feel is over priced. If the seller feels he can get "asking", I say hang onto it till he gets it, and I will continue looking.
But again, I do like this car and will see it tomorrow. Hopefully, it goes better than the "Mint" Vette I checked out today...
The good:
She drives pretty good and tracks straight, steering and suspension seem tight, exhaust was replaced fairly recently, Car had no trouble shifting either up or down. Tires were pretty new, exhaust was new from the Cat Back (To replace the Cat as the original owner had removed it and he had to make it emissions legal for his county). The interior was perfect and all original save for the radio, all the original components (even the front windshield, shockingly as it had the original and sun worn dealer sticker on the inside) is OEM. Also, the Body had no rust and doors exhibited no sag. He had all the original paperwork including the window sticker and maintenance records. She's a 5.7 car according to VIN and RPO and has the original engine and, from the looks of it paint, rims are original and are in good shape and only missing the little IROC Hub Stickers. Oh, and it's a hardtop, which I am into. All the switches, mirrors and lights etc... work.
The Bad:
Lots of little paint chips and there is a 4" x 1/2" section by the passenger side louvers where the paint seems to be pealing/chipping off (Common?). There is a very small dent in the passenger side front fender near the wheel well, she took a bit of time to warm up (Engine cut out the first time I turned it on but he did warn me that it has been sitting for a while. According to the RPO it has THE TALLEST rear end ratio available (So it will probably do like, 300 miles an hour if you gave it a few weeks to accelerate lol).
Yes, the second owner had thoroughly checked the height of a curb and had to replace the front bumper components. No structural damage on the components when I looked her over and the carfax reports say the same thing.
Like others have said when it comes to 31 year old cars 170k isn't bad. I always look at how many owners it has had and what condition everything is in. If the maintenance was kept up with, which it looks like it has been, then their asking price of $8k is within reason. However given the issues you listed I feel that it is more of a $5k-$6k car, which is average retail for that year VS the high retail they're asking.
So, According to Carfax someone bought it in the beginning and put 10k on it. That dude returned it to the same dealership for something else, then the second owner had it till 166k, then this dude bought, put a cat-back on it it and basically sat on it for a few years taking the kids to ice-cream with the kids and things like that.
So, it's not "been around" much.
Anyway, got it for $7k. He was asking 8250.
It's basically exactly the Iroc I was looking for features wise (i.e. Hardtop, 5.7, white, perfect interior, all original components, unmodded, no doorsag etc...).
The important thing is, I Have an IROC-Z!
I think my first big task will be to rebuild the suspension/steering. More immediate I will be doing all of my Fluids, belts, plugs, fix the drivers side manifold, flush the radiator and grease chassis as needed, than enjoy it.
I'll post up some more images as soon as I get a chance.
Last edited by KanzlerBismarck; 02-12-2018 at 09:11 PM.
I'm glad you were able to get a deal done, and ended up with a car you'll be happy with. I caught a lot of slack from my buddies for selling my '86 iroc with t-tops and going with a hardtop. However my unicorn is a '87 iroc manual with all the options and that's exactly what I found five years ago. Too bad mine sat in a barn and was infested with mice!
02-05-2018, 03:57 PM
