Suspension angles
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Suspension angles
I found a website at one point that had all of the spension alignment angels for stock, agressive street, and racing aplications. Has anyone else seen this and remember the site? Or the numbers?
Thanx.
Thanx.
Suspension/Tires/Brakes/Steering section of the 3rd gen FAQ - https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/faq/thirdgen.shtml

I tried to make the table but the messageboard messed up the spacing and it looked crazy. I'll try to post a pic of it (screenshot).

I tried to make the table but the messageboard messed up the spacing and it looked crazy. I'll try to post a pic of it (screenshot).
Last edited by CrazyHawaiian; Mar 4, 2003 at 10:55 PM.
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hmm thats pretty intrestin about all that. and would doin what those specs say help say in the 1/4? like how the specs are for the drag racing.
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I think it would free up a little time, and I mean a fraction of .10. The less toe in is better for drag racing, but if it isn't a strictly drag, it would be bad for the street. To many bumps to cause bump steer on these days.
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for some reason im not thinking that would be the best on the street....
but, for a drifting/street combo, what would be the best do you guys think?
also, what would be the best parts as far as tighness in shocks and sway bars and all? Ive been studying but im not realy sure.... im thinking it would be best to make it handle tight like normal to keep control, but give it enough power or somethin to kick it around.... idonno......
what tehcniques do you guys suggest for a beginner?
but, for a drifting/street combo, what would be the best do you guys think?
also, what would be the best parts as far as tighness in shocks and sway bars and all? Ive been studying but im not realy sure.... im thinking it would be best to make it handle tight like normal to keep control, but give it enough power or somethin to kick it around.... idonno......
what tehcniques do you guys suggest for a beginner?
When you talk camber/caster/toe you're basically talking about modifying the contact patch your tire has on the road. You also mentioned modding the car to make it kick out more, and that would be attributed to the actual tuning of the suspension (aka oversteer/understeer). So we're talking about two things here I guess .... maybe I'm confused .. but here goes anyway ...
When you first start out you want your car to be neutral. You dont want to tune your car to have more oversteer or more understeer. When everything is neutral, then you (as the driver) can decide how much understeer or oversteer you want with your driving actions. This gives you a good chance to learn how the car reacts. Once you know how to make the car understeer or oversteer with different driving techniques, then you might want to tune the suspension to automatically make the car oversteer or understeer. How you tune it will depend on your driving techniques. When I first started drifting my Camaro, everything was stock. I did that for a while, then I found a deal on a bigger rear swaybar. Thinking bigger is always better, I installed the larger swaybar in the rear. This caused the car to have more oversteer once it lost traction. For a while I was wondering why the car was acting differently on the track. I had not done my homework. Just an example of how changing parts can affect the cars handling.
Drifters have traditionally run alot of negative camber because during a slide your outside front tire contact patch is no longer level on the ground. The force of the slide will cause the tire to lean in and you loose out on some contact patch (aka traction). Going with alot of negative camber will even this out during a slide and give you more of a contact patch on the outside tire. If you're talking grip roadracing then you probably wouldnt want to do this. The object in grip racing is to get the best tire contact patch you possibly can at all times. And since you wouldnt be sliding, you wont have to worry about loosing your contact patch during a turn. I haven't progressed enough yet to run anything more than a somewhat stock camber/caster/toe setup. Soon this will change. I have to learn how to walk before I can run. Revlimit has done alot more experimenting than me, so he probably knows whats better for drifting (he is a better drifter than me).
But my opinion, I would recommend you leave mostly everything stock untill you have a feel for the car. Then when you do mods, you can see how that changes the feel of the car and you'll have a better understanding of how the mods affect the car. There's alot to suspension tuning, sometimes too much to handle!! Certain mods affect the suspension geometry, others affect the handling characteristics, others affect your tire contact patch. Starting out with alot of mods at extreme settings might make it a little harder to feel the differences the suspension settings make. If the car is a street car, then you dont want to go too extreme. You'll be putting more miles on the car than you would at a track, so you have to keep that in mind. If its a track car, then go for it.
When you first start out you want your car to be neutral. You dont want to tune your car to have more oversteer or more understeer. When everything is neutral, then you (as the driver) can decide how much understeer or oversteer you want with your driving actions. This gives you a good chance to learn how the car reacts. Once you know how to make the car understeer or oversteer with different driving techniques, then you might want to tune the suspension to automatically make the car oversteer or understeer. How you tune it will depend on your driving techniques. When I first started drifting my Camaro, everything was stock. I did that for a while, then I found a deal on a bigger rear swaybar. Thinking bigger is always better, I installed the larger swaybar in the rear. This caused the car to have more oversteer once it lost traction. For a while I was wondering why the car was acting differently on the track. I had not done my homework. Just an example of how changing parts can affect the cars handling.
Drifters have traditionally run alot of negative camber because during a slide your outside front tire contact patch is no longer level on the ground. The force of the slide will cause the tire to lean in and you loose out on some contact patch (aka traction). Going with alot of negative camber will even this out during a slide and give you more of a contact patch on the outside tire. If you're talking grip roadracing then you probably wouldnt want to do this. The object in grip racing is to get the best tire contact patch you possibly can at all times. And since you wouldnt be sliding, you wont have to worry about loosing your contact patch during a turn. I haven't progressed enough yet to run anything more than a somewhat stock camber/caster/toe setup. Soon this will change. I have to learn how to walk before I can run. Revlimit has done alot more experimenting than me, so he probably knows whats better for drifting (he is a better drifter than me).
But my opinion, I would recommend you leave mostly everything stock untill you have a feel for the car. Then when you do mods, you can see how that changes the feel of the car and you'll have a better understanding of how the mods affect the car. There's alot to suspension tuning, sometimes too much to handle!! Certain mods affect the suspension geometry, others affect the handling characteristics, others affect your tire contact patch. Starting out with alot of mods at extreme settings might make it a little harder to feel the differences the suspension settings make. If the car is a street car, then you dont want to go too extreme. You'll be putting more miles on the car than you would at a track, so you have to keep that in mind. If its a track car, then go for it.
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yea what shawn says is correct and for a example of how to set up your car you can check this one sway bar thread on this board. It pretty much has me and this one guy battling with each other on which is better for drifting O_o haha...but yea setting is good overall for drift but for the street you can kiss the inside of the tire good bye O_o
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Aight, so how close to those numbers do the angles have to be? On the new alignment rack we have at school I've got the cambers to be -1.0* on the right, but -1.1* on the right (at one point i had them at -5*).
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Code:
Caster Camber Toe Total
(deg) (deg) (in)
L R L R
Street +4 +4.5 -.5 -.5 3/32
Hard Street Use +5 +5.5 -1 -1 3/32
Drag Racing +4 +4 0 0 1/32
Road racing +6 +6 -1.75 -1.75 Short Course
1/8 out
Long Course
1/16 in
The figures are credited to Global West Suspension Components and are taken with driver weight included there ya go... straight from the sites FAQ..
now according to this, i want the hard street use settings..
now im not a "drifter", i just like to have my car setup so that as im cornering (fast and hard) the car has a slight oversteer to it, rather then the traditional GM understeer.
what can i use to make it grip more in the front? im not looking to have the rear end whip around on me, but it would be nice if i could throttle steer the rear end without forcing it to break loose first....
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